Peak Boost manifold for KA24DE Teaser Pics -- -

Your premier source for information on the Turbo KA: KA24E-T and KA24DE-T (KA with aftermarket turbo kit)!
MATT 'BACK' VASS
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I figured I would let the KA guys know about this... now that I have a KA car again

Would also like to thank nico for sponsoring us.

we test fit the peak boost ka24de manifold top mount, basically the same thing as the SR20 manifold, and let me tell you it clears!!

Clears A/CClears Power SteeringClears the hoodTONS of brake master cylinder clearance with a 4 bolt .82a/r T3 side. A 1.06 T3 side should offer justas much clearance!! MSRP is going to be same price as the SR one. It will have provisions for Tial 38mm wastegate as well.

PICS CRAZY!!!



Structure240sx
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looking greatits nice to have more and more quailty manifolds avaible

1WheelWonder
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looks good.

DRIFTEADOR
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whats the price of the SR one? Sorry if I missed it. I tried the website but only saw the MR and HKS.

Florida240sx
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I like it.$$$$?

MATT 'BACK' VASS
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MSRP is 899.99 but we will work with each customer depending on the supporting parts that they get!

NateDogg
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Is that in a S13 or S14 and how will that affect fitment?

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95_240sx
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It took you guys HOW long to come out with that? Several months if I remember correctly. Phamspeed designed and built equal lengths that arent as bulky.

Other than that, it does look good and high quality.

Rick

Jeff240sx
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95_240sx wrote:It took you guys HOW long to come out with that? Several months if I remember correctly. Phamspeed designed and built equal lengths that arent as bulky.

Other than that, it does look good and high quality.

Rick
Phamspeed uses 304ss, Peak Boost uses 321ss. For turbo manifolds, 321 welded up with 347 filler is the way to go ten times out of ten.-Jeff

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fiznat
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Heya Matt, welcome to the boards! That manifold looks pretty nice there, I cant wait to see the final product!

DRIFTEADOR
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Jeff240sx wrote:
Phamspeed uses 304ss, Peak Boost uses 321ss. For turbo manifolds, 321 welded up with 347 filler is the way to go ten times out of ten.-Jeff
someone better fill full-race in
Modified by DRIFTEADOR at 2:43 PM 6/17/2005

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onosqv
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what about the "E" crowd?

Nice looking mani - the small luxuries in life, ahhhh, a/c, HAHAHA.

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Checkered-Member
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How long is the warranty on this one?

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AZhitman
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Hey Matt!

What happened to your old screen name? Do you need it activated or something?

Hope all is well, tell the crew at ER howdy for us!!!

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Red-KAT
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Its an S14 you cal tell from the distributor.

That looks nice... I love Enjuku. Thats why 90% is from them.

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uncle_louie83
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would that turbo even spool on the kade-t motor?...if so what rpm would it make full boost at? cause thats a big sucker and i sold one recently close to that size.

lewis

MATT 'BACK' VASS
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hahah dude i forgot my password

and i dont think i use the same email address anyways - this new acct has my correct email address - i suck at that whole thing..

lets see if i can answer some questions:

1) i love nico

2) yes the manifold has a lifetime warranty if you go with the downpipe that is going to be built to mate with it - because it has a flex sextion

3) sorry, for the e crowd- swap in a dual cam, or put a dual cam cylinder head on - thats the easiest way -

4) 95240sx rick, i'm sorry but i have no idea who pham speed is, but i dont know that they had long merge collectors at a 15 degree angle to minimize exhaust gases interfering with one another, while clearing the brake master cylinder with tons of space, a/c , and power steering . in terms of it taking us how long? about 3 weeks. 3 weeks ago we weren't really een interested in doing it, but the right people kept asking us to do it (700hp yuki) so we looked into it. running a race team takes a good bit of time up.

5) sr manifold msrp is 899.99, call enjuku for all pricing.

6) hope this helps guys, sorry i didn't make top 16 in houston for you all.

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smokey240sx
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MATT ’BACK’ VASS wrote:hahah dude i forgot my password and i dont think i use the same email address anyways - this new acct has my correct email address - i suck at that whole thing..
wanna trade jobs? I could do what your doing and you could be like me. ( a forum junky reading about enjuki.)

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get_up_mark
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thats an s13 motor you can tell by the three bolts near the spark plug holes on the valve cover. on the s14 there is only 2.

Nismo_Freak
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MATT ’BACK’ VASS wrote:6) hope this helps guys, sorry i didn't make top 16 in houston for you all.
FWIW I drove 300 miles to get you guys a clutch only to have the idiot I was getting it from "accidently disco' his phone line"... the drift gods were not with you that weekend.

MATT 'BACK' VASS
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No, its an
get_up_mark wrote:thats an s13 motor you can tell by the three bolts near the spark plug holes on the valve cover. on the s14 there is only 2.
its a DPR Stage 5 s13 cylinder head with every thing you can think of done to it

NateDogg
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Hey Matt finish your sentence please. ^^^

Jeff240sx
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DRIFTEADOR wrote:someone better fill full-race in
Is this you being a jerkoff?
some website wrote:Grades 321 and 347 are the basic austenitic 18/8 steel (Grade 304) stabilised by Titanium (321) or Niobium (347) additions. These grades are used because they are not sensitive to intergranular corrosion after heating within the carbide precipitation range of 425-850°C. Grade 321 is the grade of choice for applications in the temperature range of up to about 900°C, combining high strength, resistance to scaling and phase stability with resistance to subsequent aqueous corrosion.

A limitation with 321 is that titanium does not transfer well across a high temperature arc, so is not recommended as a welding consumable. In this case grade 347 is preferred - the niobium performs the same carbide stabilisation task but can be transferred across a welding arc. Grade 347 is therefore the standard consumable for welding 321. (Why I mentioned the 347 filler rod)

Grade 304L is more readily available in most product forms, and so is generally used in preference to 321 if the requirement is simply for resistance to intergranular corrosion after welding. However 304L has lower hot strength than 321 and so is not the best choice if the requirement is resistance to an operating environment over about 500°C.
some other website wrote:Types 321 and 347 stainless steels offer higher creep and stress rupture properties than Type 304 and, particularly, Type 304L which might also be considered for exposures where sensitization and intergranular corrosion are concerns. This results in higher elevated temperature allowable stresses for these stabilized alloys. The Types 321 and 347 alloys have maximum use temperatures of 1500°F (816°C) for code applications, whereas T304L is limited to 800°F (426°C).
I think that's enough quoting from Azom.com and Fergusson Metals. And if you're so concerned with Full-Race, just shoot them a link here. But, I assume they've looked over the facts and properties of different metals, and made their choice for a reason (cost is the usual reason). But, judging by the look of the welds, FR uses 321 anyway.-Jeff

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95_240sx
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Good Info Jeff. A lot of people on here have no idea of what different grades of metals are..luckily for me being a metal fabricator and welder as my main job, I have a pretty good handle. Probably a good idea to fill people in though.

Also, fullrace went out and bought those RoboTIG welders...I think they use the Panasonic models but I am not sure, thats why their welds are so freaking overkill.

Rick

Jeff240sx
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95_240sx wrote:Also, fullrace went out and bought those RoboTIG welders...I think they use the Panasonic models but I am not sure, thats why their welds are so freaking overkill.Rick
I think you'll get a kick out of this.http://www.aws.org/cgi-bin/mwf...=6743

Summary:Some guy says "I want welds to look like this *links to full-race pics*." Other guy says "Nice welds for a novice"First guy "Those aren't my welds"*Big discussion about welding* and confusion about why such thick welds for 16ga material. It's not until the last post someone mentions it could be 8ga.Randome guy says "The pictures of the 'weld quality' (Full Race Pictures)that you are trying to achieve are not that good, welding wise."

Hmmm.. I don't know what's with those welders, but they seem to be a league of their own. I've never seen welds as consistantly perfect as full-race.. almost like a.. robot.. did the welding. Heh.-Jeff

DRIFTEADOR
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321 ss is better, I'm not doubting that, the price clearly states it, but maybe overkill for our application. search around and see if you find any unsatisfied full race customers. that's what i'm getting to. here's a few more reads on why 321 is a better metal,

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=449127&page=1

still doesn't mean my 304L manifold is inferior to your 321 that costs twice as much.

matt, what do you guys use?

MATT 'BACK' VASS
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DRIFTEADOR wrote:321 ss is better, I'm not doubting that, the price clearly states it, but maybe overkill for our application. search around and see if you find any unsatisfied full race customers. that's what i'm getting to. here's a few more reads on why 321 is a better metal,

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=449127&page=1

still doesn't mean my 304L manifold is inferior to your 321 that costs twice as much.

matt, what do you guys use?
the peak boost manifolds are 321 with 347 filler


Jeff240sx
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DRIFTEADOR wrote:still doesn't mean my 304L manifold is inferior to your 321 that costs twice as much.
304L is a different alloy, it's a low carbon 304. That is a much better, slightly more expensive material to make a manifold out of, compared to 304ss. I never called 304L inferior. But, 304L is still not ideal. Nor is 321, but it's closer to ideal.A crazy alloy like Inconel is ideal.. like what SpecialtyZ made for the z32tt.http://www.specialtyz.com/manifold.htmBut.. those make a 321ss manifold look cheap.-Jeff

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klattr1
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its hard to tell from pics but are the manifold to turbo bolt holes tapped or are u just using hex head bolts only or hex head bolts with nuts on the bottom?

clearances look really narrow to get a wrench for a nut on the bottom of the bolt hole, thats why i ask.

btw, everything else looks good.

DRIFTEADOR
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oh sorry, i didnt realize yours were the peak boost manifolds. I guess that explains why the name was even brought up

how thick is the piping and do you recommend bracing or are they fine without it? also what's the ETA, are they available now? by order basis?

jeff, as far as i know everyone uses 304L for exhaust products. well, everyone who uses 304 stainless anyways. regular 304 would corrode too easily with the heat. and damn, that inconel manifold is pretty crazy stuff.


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