Im orderring a bunch of random parts online and a PCV valve has never been changed on my car.
Ive heard conflicting stories of whether or not the VQ has a threaded PCV or not.
Mine is an 2001.5 Qx4 2wd
Anyone know for sure which I would need??
PCV Valve - Threaded or nipple stlye??
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Towncivilian
- Posts: 4868
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- Car: 2001.5 Nissan Pathfinder SE 3.5L 2WD A/T
2007 Nissan Altima 2.5L CVT
2012 Nissan Sentra 2.0L CVT Special
2012 Infiniti G37 Sedan 7A/T - Location: Florida, USA
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Re: PCV Valve - Threaded or nipple stlye??
2001.5 has a non-threaded PCV valve. 2002 and above have a threaded one. Be sure to order the grommet and manifold gaskets. Here's a parts list. You may want to find an aftermarket gasket kit if you'd rather not stomach the $50 in OEM manifold gasket costs, but definitely purchase the grommet that goes around the PCV valve.
Re: PCV Valve - Threaded or nipple stlye??
thanks alot man, you are very helpful and courteous.
You should setup a paypal account so I can send you dollars for every hundred you save me lol, really appreciate it
You should setup a paypal account so I can send you dollars for every hundred you save me lol, really appreciate it
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Towncivilian
- Posts: 4868
- Joined: Sun May 23, 2010 10:21 am
- Car: 2001.5 Nissan Pathfinder SE 3.5L 2WD A/T
2007 Nissan Altima 2.5L CVT
2012 Nissan Sentra 2.0L CVT Special
2012 Infiniti G37 Sedan 7A/T - Location: Florida, USA
- Contact:
Re: PCV Valve - Threaded or nipple stlye??
Thank you for the kind words 
I'm not sure I can accept donations, and I doubt they're warranted in the first place. I'm glad to help.
One thing I forgot to mention, the threadlocker on power valve screws guide will help you get to the PCV valve if you aren't familiar with the process yet. Put threadlocker (preferably red) on the power valve screws if you haven't yet, of course. And be sure to disconnect the PCV hose before you lift off the lower intake manifold, otherwise you'll crack the PCV valve in half just like I did.
It may also be prudent to install a PCV catch can to condense and collect oil vapors from the blow-by coming out of the PCV valve so there is less oil potentially pooling in the intake manifold and coating the throttle body plate - see Pwnin O'Brien's setup here. The only downside is needing to empty the can every other week or so. Technically, this can be added any time, it's just a lot easier with the intake manifolds off since the PCV hoses are so buried when everything is assembled.
Be sure to get an OEM PCV valve only. I wouldn't chance saving $6 buying an aftermarket part when the valve is so difficult to access.
I'm not sure I can accept donations, and I doubt they're warranted in the first place. I'm glad to help.One thing I forgot to mention, the threadlocker on power valve screws guide will help you get to the PCV valve if you aren't familiar with the process yet. Put threadlocker (preferably red) on the power valve screws if you haven't yet, of course. And be sure to disconnect the PCV hose before you lift off the lower intake manifold, otherwise you'll crack the PCV valve in half just like I did.
It may also be prudent to install a PCV catch can to condense and collect oil vapors from the blow-by coming out of the PCV valve so there is less oil potentially pooling in the intake manifold and coating the throttle body plate - see Pwnin O'Brien's setup here. The only downside is needing to empty the can every other week or so. Technically, this can be added any time, it's just a lot easier with the intake manifolds off since the PCV hoses are so buried when everything is assembled.
Be sure to get an OEM PCV valve only. I wouldn't chance saving $6 buying an aftermarket part when the valve is so difficult to access.