Pauter rods and wiseco piston combo!

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
boost_boy
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Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
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Here's a shot of the pistons on their rods! I actually assembled these as if i were a surgeon;). I don't know; when you spend good money and want your stuff to come out right, that attention to detail seem to take over. I've sealed them and put them away until the ARP studs get here monday (Which was supposed to be here monday past) at which time I will spend the day assembling the beast. I'll post pics as I go along with this.


drumma022
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Hey Dee, looks good. I cant wait to see that thing on the road. You can easily do 600+ on your setup, but too bad its not RWD! :)

I havent heard from you in a while man. Hope the built comes out flawless.

I have a quick detailed question for ya......

I just finished tesing my car, and the Leakdown test turned out great. We put 95 psi into the cyl, and ~100 psi held steady in all 4 cyl. Compression test is also good, but spark plug #3 is all cooked up with oil/soot. Would a bad valve seal leak that much oil through to build up alot? Driving home, boosting 1.1 bar was fine, it was when i finished 2, 3rd gear I let off to slow down and when i revved it to rpm match downshift, i see a bunch of smoke. The car doesnt smoke when i startup, unless I free rev it and its cold outside.

What would you think?

Ray

NeedCAforS13
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i think you should pull it out and give it to me...sounds like a crappy motor indeed ;)

Sean

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slw240sx
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condinsation in the exhaust pipe. and you let it idle a bit before you free rev it right?

boost_boy
Posts: 7051
Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 7:28 am
Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
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Here's the tricky part "Ray", if the valve guides were never changed during your head rebuild, then this could very well be causing you drama (they are copper/bronze and do wear). Head rebuilders seldomly change valve guides because most of the heads they do are for regular econo-cars and are too lazy to change them. Could very well be a faulty valve seal, but when you get tired of doing the fouling thing and decide to remove the head, you will then discover the true problem. To be safe and protect your investment, I would definitely pull the engine and be nosy! Since you have the SDS, you shouldn't have too much issues with the factory crap giving you a headache trying to remove part or all of the engine. As soon as the ARP pieces get here, I'll finish up the motor.

drumma022
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Once I pull the head, it is still a guessing game as to what is wrong with that cylinder. I will have to check the tops of the valves and compare with cyl #3 and see it that is my problem there. The seals were changed a LONG time ago and have withstood the spun bearing, so i am thinking metal pieces could have made its way up to the head and caused the seal or the guides to fail. I will wait until I get a set of valve springs before I pull the head. I think i can get my hands on a set of Tomei for $180. 2-3 weeks or so.

andrave
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where can you get tomei valvesprings that cheaply? I'm halfheartedly looking for some aftermarket ones...

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CA19DET
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200 from AEBS if i remember thats what i payed for miine.

http://www.aebsracing.com

andrave
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site isn't working for me, all the links bring up blank pages...


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