Pathfinder wont accelerate on full throttle

[Towncivilian]

I finally got around to changing the fuel filter. I was able to undo the center bolt half way and slide out the filter after removing the upstream (tank) tube. I wasn't expecting the tank tube to keep leaking but I got it under control real quick. Overall it was pretty successful I'd say, no broken bolts and no fires or explosions either.

Glad it went well. Next time, remove the spare tire (not sure if you did, but you didn't mention it), and remove the gas cap in addition to the fuse pump fuse depressurization method; less gas will leak out that way.

[Azndjay]

update*

I took the pathfinder to get the seat belt buckle to get it replaces because it retracts slow. While there I decided to get the computer diagnostics . They funny told me why my car was starting rough and running rough on the Hwy. It was the -FUEL DAMPER ASSY leaking and the -PRESSURE REGULATOR ASSY losing pressure or something like that. They told me when I got all that dont, i would need to reprogram my ECU so i will get to those in the spring. What surprise me was my local auto zone and my code reader did not say anything about fuel damper or pressure Reg? weird..

[Towncivilian]

The dealer has the advantage of Nissan specific tools and scan tools that cost probably thousands of dollars. AutoZone has a dinky $60 ODBII scanner.

I've never heard of fuel delivery problems with R50s other than maybe a dead fuel pump. I sure hope the dealer's diagnostic is correct! Keep us posted.

[Azndjay]

i hope its correct also since it cost me 89$ for the scan. but they did two recalls on the truck and inspect it over and the tech that drove the truck said that is why the truck cranks longer to start. they quoted me "500$" for the fuel damper and regulator assy, for labor + parts ...is the job that hard that cost that much??? i was going to do the job and just let them reprogram

[Towncivilian]

See #3 and #6 in this exploded view:



I believe those are the parts in question. If you think you can R&R them yourself, do so by all means. I don't see anywhere in the FSM that states the procedure to get to and replace the parts in question.

Presumably, this part is the fuel damper assembly and this part is the regulator assembly. Nowhere near $500. You should check with your local parts department to get the correct part numbers, though, then order from Courtesy to get the best prices.

If you decide to replace these parts yourself, put red threadlocker on the power valve screws (if you haven't yet) and replace the PCV valve and its grommet while you're down there. This guide gets you as far as having the lower intake manifold removed; I'm not sure whether that's enough to R&R the fuel parts or if you need to pull a valve cover.

[Azndjay]

UPDATE**

I finally got around to ordering fuel pressure regulator and fuel damper.
Once Installed, I scan for code and got the code P0171 which is fuel to lean. Normal since I just change out my defective regulator and damper. So the next day off to nissan to get my computer reprogram for 120$ ...Car run like crap going there ..bogging here and there.

After picking it up it run like a champ . Like a brand new car. I even thought i was driving my Acura TL at times because of the perfect Acceleration now ...

so in all i replace fuel cap ,evap canister "old was was clogged" , valve , fuel regulator and damper.

Thanks for all your help guys finally fixed my problem..

[Towncivilian]

Great news! I'm glad you were able to finally fix your problem. Thanks for sharing the fix with us.