Pathfinder starting issue

[Bucata206]

Hey guys, I'm new here but I'm needing help.... I have a 1997 Nissan Pathfinder that spend the last few years sitting with the occasional errands run. Recently I sold my other car because I was going to drive the Pathfinder full time since it was still running well, just always had a dead battery because it sat.

A few months ago (pre-selling of other car) I took the pathfinder on a trip to the store. It ran great and I was happy. When I came out of the store to go home, it started like normal so when I went to leave the parking lot, it stalled and I could not get it to start for about an hour, until I could get it jump started. After that it ran fine for when I drove it.

Last week, I started it to go to Costco and it initially started, then after a few seconds it stalled. I started it again and it ran just fine. It did this 3 separate times that day when I was out and about. I went to O'reilly's to check out the OBD2 scanner to get the check engine light codes and I got a code for "P0325 Knock sensor 1 circuit" and "P0105 Manifold Absolute pressure or barometric pressure circuit." I bought the knock sensor at that time since that was the only sensor they had in stock.

I went to work for a week and did not drive the pathfinder until I needed it today. When I went out to the Pathfinder to start it to go to an appointment, the engine would turn over and crank, but it would not fire and actually start. I tried it 3 times but it still would not start.

Does anyone have any insight on what could be going on? My plan to make the Pathfinder my full time car again sadly isn't going well.....

[centralcoaster33]

Maybe you have an issue with the park/ neutral switch. Try to get your key in, put it to on, move the transmission selector from park to drive, then back to park again. Maybe give it a wiggle while in park. Then try to start the car.

If the car won't start when it's hot, you might need to replace the distributor. That can be diagnosed using the Factory Service Manual. This link it to each chapter link (start with FWD).
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1997_Pathfinder/

Oh, and check your battery terminals. Make sure they're on tight and not covered in corrosion.

Might be none of the above. More information if you have it please.

Welcome to NICO Club!

[Bucata206]

Maybe you have an issue with the park/ neutral switch. Try to get your key in, put it to on, move the transmission selector from park to drive, then back to park again. Maybe give it a wiggle while in park. Then try to start the car.

If the car won't start when it's hot, you might need to replace the distributor. That can be diagnosed using the Factory Service Manual. This link it to each chapter link (start with FWD).
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1997_Pathfinder/

Oh, and check your battery terminals. Make sure they're on tight and not covered in corrosion.

Might be none of the above. More information if you have it please.

Welcome to NICO Club!

Last week when I was trying to start it it was hot, but today it was mid 60s. I'll try the park/neutral switch issue when I get home.

[Blindaviator]

When you say "trying to start" does that mean it cranks over but won't fire or when you turn the key nothing happens??

[Bucata206]

When you say "trying to start" does that mean it cranks over but won't fire or when you turn the key nothing happens??

It will just crank but will not fire

[Blindaviator]

I'm in agreement with centralcoaster33... It is likely the distributor... Might want to test it...

In my experience with older Chevrolet's that have the HEI (electronic) distributors that will run fine cold and start cutting out when it warms up it is almost always the ignition module in the distributor... I don't know that much about the distributors in these Pathfinders but it is likely very similar in design...

[MisterH]

Knock sensors (P0325) by themselves will not trigger a CEL. The knock sensor warning is almost always triggered as a result of primary component error so I would focus on the MAP. There are two components to that - the MAP sensor and MAP solenoid switch. Failures by either one of those will cause no/hard start conditions. You can test them yourself with a digital multimeter. Here's a well-written tutorial on how to check both components:
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/nissan ... p-sensor-1

Good luck

[Bucata206]

Knock sensors (P0325) by themselves will not trigger a CEL. The knock sensor warning is almost always triggered as a result of primary component error so I would focus on the MAP. There are two components to that - the MAP sensor and MAP solenoid switch. Failures by either one of those will cause no/hard start conditions. You can test them yourself with a digital multimeter. Here's a well-written tutorial on how to check both components:
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/nissan ... p-sensor-1

Good luck

I will check into getting the MAP sensor replaced and take a look at the solenoid as well. I just got home and tried to start it again and this time it initially kicked like it was going to fire up but then it just cranked and cranked and cranked. Thank you guys for the help!

[MisterH]

I will check into getting the MAP sensor replaced and take a look at the solenoid as well. I just got home and tried to start it again and this time it initially kicked like it was going to fire up but then it just cranked and cranked and cranked. Thank you guys for the help!

Before you start replacing parts I strongly suggest you make an attempt (or have someone else) to do some testing. The advice about the distributor given by the other two gents here is also a very likely cause. The cam sensor that's built into the distributor can fail and unfortunately replacement requires a new distributor;.

[Bucata206]

So just an update. Today I went and bought a new multimeter since I didn't have one. I followed the directions for testing the MAP sensor and where it said I should get 3.2-4.8 volts with no vacuum applied... I got 0.3 volts... That was the highest I got with all 5 DC volt settings on this multimeter. Sadly there were no direction on what to do if I got next to no power from the get go. I'll hopefully be checking for stark tonight and I'm really hoping that there is none so the answer is easier...

[Bucata206]

I just tested the spark and the cylinders that I could test tested fine. There were 3 that were too far for the tester to reach so I could not test those. But the 3 plugs on the passenger side seemed fine and had a steady flashing on the light bulb on the spark tester.

[Rockwood]

Grab a can of starting fluid, pull the air cleaner, and spray in the intake 4 to 5 seconds. Then start it. If the truck starts, you have spark. You can spray little shots of starter fluid in the intake to keep it running for 15 or 20 seconds.

This clears unburnt fuel off of your plugs.

If it starts, disconnect the MAF plug, and try to start it. Sometimes with a bad MAF, it will start and idle when the MAF is disconnected.

[Bucata206]

Grab a can of starting fluid, pull the air cleaner, and spray in the intake 4 to 5 seconds. Then start it. If the truck starts, you have spark. You can spray little shots of starter fluid in the intake to keep it running for 15 or 20 seconds.

This clears unburnt fuel off of your plugs.

If it starts, disconnect the MAF plug, and try to start it. Sometimes with a bad MAF, it will start and idle when the MAF is disconnected.

So I tried this and it started then promptly died. Had the wife come out and start it while I used small sprays to keep it running and it worked like a charm! It wanted to die for about 20 seconds then ran perfect again! I let the truck run for a bit and it ran quiet and seemed perfect. I turned it off and started it without the MAF sensor hooked up and it ran odd for a few seconds then went back to normal. I then hooked it back up and unplugged the MAP sensor and it ran just fine. Turned it off again and started it with both the sensors plugged in and it ran perfect!

The CEL light is still on but it is the first time it has actually started in a few weeks. Could bad fuel have caused the issue? Not sure if I'm ready to call it fixed yet, but at least it is starting. Not sure if I'm confident enough to actually take it out of the driveway yet though.

[Rockwood]

Now reread your codes. Disregard any MAF code - you caused that when you disconnected it. Disregard knock code - the engine will knock as it runs out of starting fluid. Clear all codes.

Drive the truck around close to home and see what codes it sets. You need to check pending codes as well. Keep the starting fluid with you in case it dies.

Probably need to redo the map sensor test to be sure you did it right, and if it fails, replace it.

[Bucata206]

So today I went and the truck started just as it should with no issues. I also drove around (O'reillys, ect) and it had no issues starting or running. I checked the codes and I got the same codes as before with the addition of the MAF sensor code. I tried to reset it but I don't know if it actually reset the codes or not.

I got back home and did all 3 tests with the multimeter on the MAP sensor. On the first test (checking for a signal) I still only got 0.3 volts with no vacuum when I was supposed to get 3.2-4.8. The power and ground test was just fine and both voltages were within the proper voltage range. So I'm going to replace the MAP sensor and hope that fixes the issue. If not, then I will post again looking for more insight.

Thank you all for all your help!

[Rockwood]

Good idea to replace the MAP sensor I think.

Codes are cleared if the CEL light turns off. It is good to clear them so you know if the light returns the codes you are seeing are all new ones.

You mentioned old gas - try running a couple of bottles of Techron fuel system cleaner thru to make sure your injectors and other fuel system parts are clean. Just a good maintenance move since it has been sitting quite a bit.

Good luck!

[Bucata206]

Good idea to replace the MAP sensor I think.

Codes are cleared if the CEL light turns off. It is good to clear them so you know if the light returns the codes you are seeing are all new ones.

You mentioned old gas - try running a couple of bottles of Techron fuel system cleaner thru to make sure your injectors and other fuel system parts are clean. Just a good maintenance move since it has been sitting quite a bit.

Good luck!

So I got the codes cleared and the CEL light is off. I also got the MAP sensor replaced and it ran fine. I started it a couple days later to take the truck to the 4x4 shop to replace the rear control arms (death wobble) and it started and immediately died. I sprayed some starter fluid in it and it started right up and ran fine. I got the truck back from the 4x4 shop and it again started just fine. Today, I tried to start it and it just cranked and would not start. Again I threw some starter fluid in it and it fired right up with no issues.

I drove the truck around for maybe 20 mines and then went to the store. When I came back out, it started but it ran rough and tried to die but I feathered the gas to keep it running but it would not rev past 3k. I kept it running and when I gave up and realized it was going to die, I let off the gas pedal. The engine got to about 700 RPM and smoothed out and ran just fine without dying.

Anyone have any thoughts on what it could be now? The CEL light has not come back on. Dirty injectors? I haven't ran any fuel system cleaner through it yet. I forgot about it since I had a lot of other things I was trying to take care of at the same time.

[Bucata206]

I seem to have landed back at square one now. The Pathfinder had been running well once it started. It had taken a single spray of starting fluid to get running. Today, I went to start it and it wouldn't start. I sprayed starter fluid in it to get it to start and it started for about 2 seconds then died. I tried to fluid again and it started then immediately died when I gave it a little gas. Third time I tried, it started and when I tried spraying a little starter fluid to KEEP it running, the truck immediately died. After that, I was able to get it to fire without starter fluid but it would always die if it tried to give it gas or after it initially revved up from starting it would die.... Any thoughts? This issue is getting extremely frustrating.

[PathyPop]

Did you look at or replace the fuel pump in the tank? Since you've been able to get it running with starting fluid that might be compensating for a marginal fuel pump. Running rough due to lack of fuel could cause some of those codes you had earlier too. The pump is fairly easy to access under the left rear seat and they cost less than $50. Not sure of your miles, but they don't last forever and tend to fail slowly with declining and/or sporadic output, consistent with your symptoms.

[Bucata206]

Did you look at or replace the fuel pump in the tank? Since you've been able to get it running with starting fluid that might be compensating for a marginal fuel pump. Running rough due to lack of fuel could cause some of those codes you had earlier too. The pump is fairly easy to access under the left rear seat and they cost less than $50. Not sure of your miles, but they don't last forever and tend to fail slowly with declining and/or sporadic output, consistent with your symptoms.

I have a little over 150k

[Rockwood]

Yes, I agree with Pathypop. Time to check fuel pump pressure.
It seems to have spark each time you try the starting fluid, so it seems ignition is ok.

Long shot, but you could have water in the gas, which won't go past the fuel filter. You could try a new fuel filter. Don't know where you are at, but most areas in the U.S. use ethanol in the gas, and ethanol will take care of the water issue.

[PathyPop]

With 150k miles on a 20 year old truck I'd say it wouldn't be a waste of money to replace it with a new one and hope it solves your problem. Not sure how handy you are with a wrench, but it only takes a 10mm socket, philips screw driver and a set of pliers to replace. Maybe 30 minutes to an hour of time. Suggest you buy a new $10 o-ring for the top plate to be sure it all seals up correctly. Have caution working with your tank open, need to be careful with fumes, potential sparks, etc.

[Bucata206]

With 150k miles on a 20 year old truck I'd say it wouldn't be a waste of money to replace it with a new one and hope it solves your problem. Not sure how handy you are with a wrench, but it only takes a 10mm socket, philips screw driver and a set of pliers to replace. Maybe 30 minutes to an hour of time. Suggest you buy a new $10 o-ring for the top plate to be sure it all seals up correctly. Have caution working with your tank open, need to be careful with fumes, potential sparks, etc.

Sounds good! I'll look into replacing the fuel pump. It could probably use it anyway, even if it doesn't fix the problem.

Rockwood, I'm in Washington.

[PathyPop]

Fuel filter video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prK3mvAOOS8

And this one for the fuel pump:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TD0gz_-pB4I
He uses a trash bag to reach in the tank, thought that was a good idea. Remember to disconnect your battery on this one too.

[Bucata206]

So the saga continues. I checked the fuel pump fuse and it looked fine and I could hear the fuel pump relay cycling when the key turned on and off. I replaced the fuel pump today (after lots of procrastinating) and the car still will not start. I had my wife cycle the key on and off when I had my ear against the top plate above the fuel pump and I was not able to hear it turn on like I can in other cars so my guess is there is no power getting to the fuel pump. Does anyone have any idea of how to check for power getting to the fuel pump or how to remedy the issue? Also I'm just assuming that you can hear the fuel pump turn on when the key is turned on. I can with other cars but I've never payed attention before on this car whether I can hear it or not.

[Dit]

I joined this forum just to hopefully help someone because I got very lucky to catch my problem before it cost me an arm and leg. I have 2001 Pathfinder. I was getting P0174 and P0171 (fuel too lean in bank 1 &2) with P0505 (idle air malfunction) and P1135 (intake valve timing). I had to start somewhere and changed the camshaft sensors. This triggered the last two codes to come on with P1110 code too. All those codes pointed to crankshaft sensor. I drove vehicle around for three months with it hard starting. First set of codes told me nothing except that I wasn’t getting enough gas which I could have interpreted as fuel filter, weak fuel pump. All Im saying is after you changed map sensor, go scan codes again. It could point you to the exact problem if it pulls up a new set of codes. Good luck!

[Rockwood]

You should be able to unplug the connector at the fuel pump and make sure you see 12 volts on the voltmeter when you turn the key to start. If you do, meaure the fuel pump resistance in ohms. Make sure it is not infinte ( open circuit in motor) or zero (short).

[Bucata206]

Thank you everyone for your help and responses. I believe I have fixed the issue today. Since I could not hear the fuel pump prime, I decided to test the fuel pump relay and with a jump wire and the car started right up. I put the old fuel pump relay back in and it again would not prime and would not start. I put in a new relay and it fired right up and runs great! I'm hoping this will end the issues I've had. Thank you again!

[jamesmorgan12345]

Hello guys; this is the guy with the recent questions about changing the idle belt. Unfortunately have new developments:

So belt placement seemed fine for a couple of days on a 02 nissan pathfinder le, but this morning while driving to work the pathfinder slowly lost acceleration and then just turned off. Naturally tried turning it back on but it wouldn't even crank; and after about 10 minutes even the hazard lights started dimming like the battery was dying.

So I had a couple of guesses that it could be the fuel pump or the alternator. As a quick remedy added gas to vehicle and jump-started it. It turns on; but after I remove the jumper cables it turns off after about 30 seconds to a minute.

On a related (or un-related note) the passenger airbag light came on the dashboard perhaps few minutes before the pathfinder started losing acceleration. It had never come on before.

Before spending on a new fuel pump and alternator just wanted to check on your input. Just seems too coincidental that both things would go bad at exactly the same time.

Thanks for all your input guys!