Pathfinder 2001 Repairs Slamming Me

[binar01011]

Fellow Forum Members,
I have a 2001 Pathfinder with 102,500 miles. It's been a reliable car for the most part, but recently it's taken a turn for the worst. My goal with this post is to see if anyone out there driving the same year Pathfinder has experienced in the past the same problems I have recently experienced. This will help me out a lot in deciding whether I should put any more money into it.

PROBLEM #1 - Three weeks ago my Temperature gauge started indicating my engine was overheating and also my "Service Engine Soon" warning light turned on. I took it to my Nissan Dealer (Reed Nissan) and the problem was diagnosed as being that the Tube Assembly was leaking coolant due to faulty seals. The transmission had to be lowered to change these faulty seals and this made it a very expensive job. The service tech advised I also take care of the following:
Valve Cover Gaskets
Change all Spark Plugs
Change Transmission Main Seal
At the end of all this I got slammed with a $2,500 repair bill. Since I happen to be out of a job this really hurts and I had no choice but to put it on my credit card.

PROBLEM #2 - Three weeks have gone by since my last problem, and today my Pathfinder won't start. I turn the key, and hear the engine roll over and over but it won't fire. The fuel gauge needle goes up the dashboard lights turn on and buzzers go off as it normally does but the engine won't start when I turn the key all of the way forward. I suspected it may be a faulty battery (since it's close to 3 years old) therefore I replaced it with a brand new one today and I still have the same problem. The engine won't start. Moreover, I read a post here that sometimes the ignition key loses its programming and this will prevent the engine from starting. I tried out my spare ignition key and still my Pathfinder does not start. Through another post in this forum, I have read that the fuel pumps never go bad in a Pathfinder. Is this true? If it is not true, can the reason my Pathfinder's engine doesn't fireup be because of a faulty fuel pump? What puzzles me is that this latest problem came out of nowhere. One day it was working fine, and now it's not.

I would appreciate hearing from anyone out there with any theories on how I could fix this problem, because I don't want to take it back to my Reed Nissan dealer and get slamned with another big repair bill. Any info will be appreciated. Thanks.

[Towncivilian]

I've got an '01 Pathy @ 117k and have not had any major mechanical issues.

I would check to make sure your fuel pump fuse is not blown (see image) to begin with.

[binar01011]

I've got an '01 Pathy @ 117k and have not had any major mechanical issues.

I would check to make sure your fuel pump fuse is not blown (see image) to begin with.

Towncivilian,
Thanks for the post with photo. I pulled out my fuel pump fuse and it looks like it is in operational condition.

As of right now I can check off on these probable causes:

1. Bad Battery (replaced it with a new one)
2. Fuel Pump Fuse checks out in good condition
3. Key lost programming (my spare key does not work either, therefore lost key programming can't be the problem).
4. Fuel pump is broken (I'm assuming this can't be the problem because Pathfinder fuel pumps never die).

My latest hunch is that it could possibly be Fuel Pump Relays (identified in the photos below). My Pathfinder seems to have two electrical boxes, each one containing what looks like relays identified on the top covers (which I removed and postioned to the side) as "FUEL PUMP" (top photo) and "FUEL PUMP 2" (bottom photo). Moreover, the still operational 15Amp Fuel Pump Fuse is identifed on the bottom photo.






Does anyone out there know for a fact if these two Fuel Pump Relays (shown in the photos above) can cause a fuel pump to become faulty?

Moreover, does anyone out there have any other suggestions on what other components I should be checking out? Any info will be greatly appreciated.

[Towncivilian]

I believe I read that the fuel pump is lubricated by gasoline, so if you drive your Pathy to near-empty often then it may take its toll on the fuel pump eventually. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

You can try replacing the fuel pump fuse with another one from the fuse box just to absolutely confirm it's not the fuse (use the same color fuse I guess). Just because it looks fine does not necessarily mean it works. I assume you checked the fuse in the relay compartment shown in your picture, as well?

I don't see why you couldn't swap one of the unimportant relays (air con/tail lamp/fr fog) from the driver's relay box with the current fuel pump relay in the same box to test it. The relay in the second picture looks more rectangular, it may be different, so I wouldn't try swapping it with anything else just yet.

[binar01011]

Fellow Forum Members,
Through reading other posts I have learned that the problem could possibly be a bad ignition coil. I understand there are six coils. Has anyone out there ever had to change all six coils. Does this job require a mechanic or is it easy enough to do at home? Where are the coils located? Any info will be greatly appreciated.

Towncivilian,
Thanks for your latest post. I will try out what you are suggesting.

[jhong1226]

All six coil going bad at the same time is rare. There should be an ignition module, those can be tested at auto parts store for free and see if thats still good, if bad coils would not fire.
Also have someone turn the key to on and listen for the fuel pump to kick on ( open gas cap and listen through that).

[fueler]

^^ hell, you can hear the fuel pump for a few secs from the drivers seat when you turn the key to ON (but not start)

and every failed fuel pump ive ever seen, failed to make that whining noise when you turn the key to ON. (granted, every failed fuel pump ive ever seen was chevy - never seen a nissan one fail)

[jhong1226]

I have never changed a fuel pump on this trucks but I am assuming the pump can be pulled out from under the back seat?

[CanuckQx4]

You dont hear the fuel pump in our 01+ when its priming, but yes acccess is under the back seat

The 6 ignition coils are an easy labour job of maybe an hour in your driveway but that not your problem

If you suspect the fuel pump relay to be shot or atleast suspect it, swap it with another of the same prong type from the fuse box from something that you know is working ie. the tail lamp relay, air con relay

Probably isnt your problem but atleast that rules it out

[binar01011]

You dont hear the fuel pump in our 01+ when its priming, but yes acccess is under the back seat

The 6 ignition coils are an easy labour job of maybe an hour in your driveway but that not your problem

If you suspect the fuel pump relay to be shot or atleast suspect it, swap it with another of the same prong type from the fuse box from something that you know is working ie. the tail lamp relay, air con relay

Probably isnt your problem but atleast that rules it out

CanuckQx4,
Thanks for the info and thanks to everyone who has replied in this thread. I have tried everything mentioned here, aswell as some other suggestions from other threads with no success.

Today, turned out to be a very aggrevating day. I had two choices. One was have my Pathfinder towed to my local Nissan Dealer and the other one was to tow it to a local import auto repair shop. Since only two weeks ago my Nissan Dealer slammed me with a $2500 repair bill, I elected to safeguard my wallet and ended up going to the import repair shop instead with the hope of saving some money.

This turned out to be an expensive $100 mistake. The computer diagnosis disclosed a "LOCKDOWN MODE" error code. The mechanic told me he couldn't do anything because only the dealer has the ability to reprogram the Pathfinder computer box and that his PIN number did not work. As for my fuel pump he said it was working properly.

All of this meant I had to tow my Pathfinder from his repair shop to my local Nissan Dealer which cost me $100. If I would have from the beginning towed it from my house directly to my Nissan dealer my tow charge would have been $63. Live and learn, as the saying goes.

Once at the Nissan dealer they also tell me I have a LOCKDOWN MODE ERROR CODE and that reprogamming both of my keys might fix this problem. So they reproram both keys and still no success. The car still does not start.

It was getting close to their closing time, so now they are telling me that tomorrow they will do some more troubleshooting and fix the problem.

I'm just totally sick to my stomach, aswell as pissed off as to how my Pathfinder is failing on me. I did a lot of research before buying this car. I remember reading back in 2000 that it was not too uncommon for a 1997-1999 Pathfinder to make it to 300,000 miles with no major repair bills. Here I am with only 102,500 miles and I'm now having to put up with some stupid LOCKDOWN MODE ERROR CODE that probably is going to end up costing me over $500 to fix. What has happened to Nissan quality? Could it be they have intentionally cut back on their quality so that all of their Nissan dealers can fatten their pockets with the obscene prices they are charging to service Nissan cars?

If I'm lucky tomorrow, they will be able to reprogram the computer. If I'm unlucky I will have to install a new computer in my Pathfinder which is probably going to be very expensive. I guess I will have to wait and see what happens.

Thanks to all again for posting on this thread.

[Buzzman]

First of all, sorry to hear of all your (expensive) problems. I hope my post isn't seen as a hijack (I don't really have an answer for your dilema),
but it does bring up some interesting points that I've noticed and observed over the three years or so that I've been a member here.
First off, I bought my 2002 Pathy when it was a year old. When I was shopping around, the dealership said to stay away from the 2001, and go with a 2002 or newer. The '01 was the first year of the 3.5 engine, and it has proven to be more troublesome than subsequent versions.
I have over 220,000 Kms on mine, and I have yet to have a single serious problem with it.
On average, the Pathfinder is a bulletproof machine. I would buy another R50 in a heartbeat (2002 or newer).
Now, about my observations after 3 years on here: The majority of (serious) problems posted here seem to be from owners that have 2001 Pathfinders or QX4's.
Obviously I don't know the percentage in terms of statistics, but I'm willing to bet that if we did a non scientific survey on here, that the 2001 version would prove to be the most unreliable and expensive.
Not much help I know, but I've always wanted to bring this subject up and see what others think or have observed.
Keep us up to date with your progress.
Cheers.

[asnorton44]

Fellow Forum Members,
Through reading other posts I have learned that the problem could possibly be a bad ignition coil. I understand there are six coils. Has anyone out there ever had to change all six coils. Does this job require a mechanic or is it easy enough to do at home? Where are the coils located? Any info will be greatly appreciated.

Towncivilian,
Thanks for your latest post. I will try out what you are suggesting.

Yeah I have replaced all six coils by myself about 9 months ago. Like CanuckQx4 said its not bad bout an hour. Easy to locate.

[fleurys]

First of all, sorry to hear of all your (expensive) problems. I hope my post isn't seen as a hijack (I don't really have an answer for your dilema),
but it does bring up some interesting points that I've noticed and observed over the three years or so that I've been a member here.
First off, I bought my 2002 Pathy when it was a year old. When I was shopping around, the dealership said to stay away from the 2001, and go with a 2002 or newer. The '01 was the first year of the 3.5 engine, and it has proven to be more troublesome than subsequent versions.
I have over 220,000 Kms on mine, and I have yet to have a single serious problem with it.
On average, the Pathfinder is a bulletproof machine. I would buy another R50 in a heartbeat (2002 or newer).
Now, about my observations after 3 years on here: The majority of (serious) problems posted here seem to be from owners that have 2001 Pathfinders or QX4's.
Obviously I don't know the percentage in terms of statistics, but I'm willing to bet that if we did a non scientific survey on here, that the 2001 version would prove to be the most unreliable and expensive.
Not much help I know, but I've always wanted to bring this subject up and see what others think or have observed.
Keep us up to date with your progress.
Cheers.

Be aware that when nissan put the 3.5 in the pathfinder, it was not really a version 1....this powertrain has been running since 97 in the qx4... so it was pretty well broke in... Anyway... I have a 2001 and seeing what I do with it, it has not failed me yet... Any vehicule, well maintained, will last... but japanese original equipement parts are overall better than domestic..

And for all the troubles you're having, do yourself a favor and buy yourself a good code reader and start reading the fsm. Teach yourself the logics of mechanics (it's not that hard), and not only will you save hundreds if not thousands of dollars to ripoff mechanics, but you will learn and feel your pathfinder alot more. You should become your best mecanics for your truck or any other vehicule. It takes some time and work but you will be rewarded at the end. my 2cents

[WPGQX4]

I'm not getting the 3.5 powertrain in the QX4? Didn't they all come with 3.3 till 2001? My Q has the 3.3 and its a 98.

[jhong1226]

01 started using the DOHC 3.5 engine and has more horsepower than 3.3 SOHC

[fleurys]

I'm not getting the 3.5 powertrain in the QX4? Didn't they all come with 3.3 till 2001? My Q has the 3.3 and its a 98.

you're right..wrong infos from my part.... my mistake... sorry.

[binar01011]

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread.

Fleurys,
Thanks for the advice. Can you recommend a good code reader by model name that I can buy online? Also, can you recommend the best maintainance book out there for a 2001 Pathfinder? I remember many years ago CHILTON was the best publisher to go with. What currently is the best book out there that provides the mechanic logic you mention?

Moreover, I finally have my Pathfinder running again. To benefit everyone who owns a 2001 Pathfinder I am posting some photos of the part that failed and prevented my Pathfinder's engine from starting. It's called a NATZ antenna. From what I understand it detects the key when inserted and it relays a signal to the starter which enables it to start the engine. At the end of the day all of this ended costing me a little over $500. It's an expensive job because the steering column has to be taken apart to change this part.

If you suspect you have this problem, don't take it to your local import auto shop mechanic. It has to be serviced by a Nissan Dealer since the keys require reprogramming. I wish I could have known this from the beginning because it would have saved me $100 towing screwup.

What I would really like to get to the bottom of is figuring out a reason why my NATZ antenna failed in the first place. It's a solid state device. Isn't a solid state device suppose to be reliable? Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

[binar01011]

Again, to help everyone who owns a 2001 Pathfinder I am sharing photos of all the parts that were replaced in my first problem that turned out to be a $2500 repair bill. This repair bill preceded my NATZ antenna repair bill by three weeks. I'll identify the parts I know by name. The ones I can't identify by name, I hope someone out there could identify.

PHOTO #1 -Below is a photo of the Tube Assembly Seals. These were bad and causing a coolant leak. The transmission had to be lowered to change these seals and this made it an expensive job:




PHOTO #2 - Below is the Transmission Seal. This part was changed as a precaution since the transmission was already lowered:






PHOTO #3 - Can someone identify the item shown in the photo below? If I'm not mistaken, I think this part is located in between the two header gaskets. Can someone out there confirm?




PHOTO #4 - The photo below shows six spark plug seals:





PHOTO #5 - Can someone identify the item shown in the photo below? Shouldn't there be two of these? I only returned a single one.





PHOTO #6 - Header Gaskets in the photo below:






PHOTO #7 - Can someone identify the item shown in the photo below? Shouldn't there be two of these?





The only photo missing is one of six spark plugs. I don't have this photo because the mechanic forgot to include them in my bag containing all of the changed parts. I have been left wondering if he ever actually got around to putting new spark plugs in since he forgot to include them in my bag.

As mentioned earlier, all of this turned out to be a $2,500 repair bill. My Pathfinder only has 102,500 miles. I would really like to know from other 2001 Pathfinder owners out there if they have ever had to change any of the parts shown in the photos above? If yes, please share at what milage did you change any of the parts shown in the photos above.

Moreover, are there any 2001 Pathfinder owners out there with 200,000 miles or 300,000 on an engine that has not yet had any of the parts changed shown in the photos above?

Any info will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

[fleurys]

If you have a laptop, and you are serious about this, then I would buy this as the code reader : http://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/pc-b ... dlink.html . Personally, I have the scanxl professional software with the elm 5 serial device, and I love it. What you'll be getting with this is more than just a code reader/eraser. You will be able to tap in all your sensors and be able to see if they work or not, therefore helping you greatly in your troubleshooting. This way you can see beforehand if the parts are defective or not. You will be able to see the amount of air you're maf detects, the temp of your colant, intake air, the voltage of all your o2 sensors etc.. Mine has already paid back for itself long ago.

For the book, you want the FSM (Factory Service manual). It is alot more thorough than a chilton and you will learn your truck inside out. everything is in there ! read it a little bit every week. You will be amazed of all the stuff that's in therre. get it here http://www.aubreyandcharles.com/ServiceManuals/ there is 2 versions for the 2001 depending on your vin. So get your vin (vehicle identification number) and download the good one. After, double-clik on fwd.pdf to start the main page.

That's the day you start putting money in your pocket instead of shady mechanics ! Good for you !

[binar01011]

If you have a laptop, and you are serious about this, then I would buy this as the code reader : http://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/pc-b ... dlink.html . Personally, I have the scanxl professional software with the elm 5 serial device, and I love it. What you'll be getting with this is more than just a code reader/eraser. You will be able to tap in all your sensors and be able to see if they work or not, therefore helping you greatly in your troubleshooting. This way you can see beforehand if the parts are defective or not. You will be able to see the amount of air you're maf detects, the temp of your colant, intake air, the voltage of all your o2 sensors etc.. Mine has already paid back for itself long ago.

For the book, you want the FSM (Factory Service manual). It is alot more thorough than a chilton and you will learn your truck inside out. everything is in there ! read it a little bit every week. You will be amazed of all the stuff that's in therre. get it here http://www.aubreyandcharles.com/ServiceManuals/ there is 2 versions for the 2001 depending on your vin. So get your vin (vehicle identification number) and download the good one. After, double-clik on fwd.pdf to start the main page.

That's the day you start putting money in your pocket instead of shady mechanics ! Good for you !

Fleurys,
Thanks for your post. The two links you provided totally rock! I have downloaded the PDF and I plan to read a small piece of it at a time.

Moreover, I happen to own a laptop, and was totally unaware that with the right hardware and software I could convert my laptop to an awesome code reader. I think this rocks and I will be ordering one soon. If I would have had both of these items when my NATZ antenna failed, I am confident I would not have had my $100 towing screwup.
Thanks Again.

[mbernardo]

fleurys, thanks for the link to the service manuals!
binar01011, PHOTO #5 appears to be an Intake Plenum Gasket. PHOTO #7 appears to be an Intake Plenum Gasket - Left. There should only be 1 of each in a complete head gasket set.
I second fleurys' post about teaching yourself the logics of mechanics. The more knowledge and hands-on experience you get, the more you will get to know your own vehicle. I've owned a Civic, an Integra, and an Odyssey all bought used and have fixed problems worth thousands with my own hands thanks to forums like this one. It will take hours/days of research but it is worth the investment.
Buzzman, I just bought my 2001 Pathy 3 days ago and because of what I have read in the past week, I have become paranoid that I always have my radar on for the slightest symptoms. Then again, most of the messages are from people looking for help in solving a problem. So far she has been good to me (knock on wood).

[nguyenmd]

Hello,
I am thinking of replacing all 6 ignition coils on my 2001 path. Do you need special tools to removing these? Should I replace the plugs as well. Any recommendations, advises are greatly appreciated. Thanks. Regards, MDN.

Fellow Forum Members,
Through reading other posts I have learned that the problem could possibly be a bad ignition coil. I understand there are six coils. Has anyone out there ever had to change all six coils. Does this job require a mechanic or is it easy enough to do at home? Where are the coils located? Any info will be greatly appreciated.

Towncivilian,
Thanks for your latest post. I will try out what you are suggesting.

Yeah I have replaced all six coils by myself about 9 months ago. Like CanuckQx4 said its not bad bout an hour. Easy to locate.

[nguyenmd]

Does anyone know how to check the readings (ohms values) for the #1 coil, or coils 2 thru 6? I removed the #1 and #3 coil but dont know what values to look for using ohmmeter. Thanks in advance.

Nguyenmd..







Towncivilian,
Thanks for your latest post. I will try out what you are suggesting.[/quote]
Yeah I have replaced all six coils by myself about 9 months ago. Like CanuckQx4 said its not bad bout an hour. Easy to locate.[/quote][/quote]