I have worked on my power windows many-a-time. This is all in an s13 hatch back. Now does the power window operate off of the relay in the drivers door? My drivers window works perfect and the passengers one doesn't move(did two days ago..just stopped)...I know hot to test the motor...but i figured it wasn't that because mine has been working perfect..what else could it be?

I have the same problem with my 91 s13, except its the driver side window that stopped working. It started not working only periodically and after hitting the button a few times would work again. Now it doesn't work at all. The passenger side works fine.

Could this be due to a bad switch, wiring, or fuse or something?

any help is appreciated-- thanks

Ways to figure out why electric motors are not turning.

Take a volt meter and put it on the DC scale. It will look like a solid line above the V. Put one lead on one side of the switch and put the other to Chassis ground (any bare metal part of your car) Look to see if you have 12 Volts DC. If not press the switch and look again. Try this on both sides of the switch. If you have 12 Volts on one side and not the other then its your switch. If you dont have 12 volts on either side go back to the fuse box. I havent pulled apart my 240 SX panel yet but some cars have both positive and negative terminals on the switch. If this is the case then instead of going to chassis ground go to both terminals.

Another cause for a window to sometimes work is the motor windings are going bad and sometimes if you open and close the door it will rotate the motor windings enough to get a good contact.

Once again check to see if you have 12 volts DC going to the window motor with the switch depressed. If you do then replace the motor.

1991240xs wrote:My drivers window works perfect and the passengers one doesn't move(did two days ago..just stopped)...I know hot to test the motor...but i figured it wasn't that because mine has been working perfect..what else could it be?

Check the window lock button.

It was the window lock button..but not that i had left it down..it was jammed or something and I just got the new power window controls from the junkyard for 15$ and that fixed the problem...dump button..lol

Well I pulled my door panel off, and I found the culpret. This little box with wires running to it, on the left side of the door seems to only affect the drivers side window. I unplugged the wires and was still able to lower the passengers side.

When I try to lower the drivers window-- nothing happens- but I do hear a clicking sound. This box was labeled:

AMP ASSY-AUTO P/W28515 40F00ET 8 7S 12V 007

What does this do... and is it possible to find a replacement? -- Or at least bypass it some way?

Thanks for your help.

Lazlo, I have a solution for your problem. I had the exact same problem on my 90 240sx. The little box inside the driver's door does not have anything to do with the passenger window. This little box is called the driver's window amplifier assembly. It controls the auto down function of the window. I bet your motor is fine, and obviously the switch is fine because that amplifier assy is clicking. You need to repair the amplifier. You can either go to the dealer and buy a new one for nearly $100......or you can do what I did. pull out the amplifier, unwrap the rubber insulator and disassemble the box. The internals will slide out of one end of the box, they are help in by little tabs on the end of the box. You may have to mangle the outher housing of the box a little bit to get it to stretch open far enough to slide out the internals. All the internals are is a circuit board with a bunch of electrical components. Slide it out and look at the underside of the circuit board and I bet you will see that one of the places where one of the wires is soldered into the board has fried. All you have to do is find the location where the connection is bad (fried) and resolder the connection. Just a small droplet of solder will do the trick. Reassemble the box, hook it up, and you're in business.

HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM, CHECK THIS OUT, I REPLACED THE DOOR SWITCHES, I REPLACED THE WINDOW TRACK, I REPLACED THE AMP BOX, THE ONE YOU DESCRIBED BECAUSE I HEARD THE CLICK SOUND TOO, ASSUMING IT WAS BAD, BUT WHEN I REPLACED IT,NOTHING!! STILL WOULD GO AND UP AND DOWN WHEN IT WANTED TO, BUT I DID FIND OUT SOMETHING, WHEN I PUSH MY CONNECTOR IN THE BOX, MY WINDOW WORKS FINE, SO I PUT A PLASTIC TIE ON IT, AND IT WORKS, BUT NOT ALL THE TIME. I BELIEVE ITS THE MAIN WIRE GROUP THAT GOES INTO THE BOX, MUST BE OLD...IF YOU HOLD IN THE BOX, YOUR WINDOW WILL GO UP AND DOWN EVERYTIME, SO I BELIEVE YOU WILL HAVE TO REPLACE EITHER THE PLUG ITSELF BECAUSE IT IS NOT SEATING TIGHTLY ANYMORE.........ANYONE ELSE HAS A THOUGHT?

thanks for the great advice QuinGarcia! it worked perfectly.here are some pics of what it looked like before.

and