Parts for replacing shocks struts

A forum for the legendary Nissan Pathfinder and Infiniti QX4.
bpierron1
Posts: 1
Joined: Thu May 15, 2014 8:59 am
Car: 2003 QX4

Post

Hey guys, I own a 2003 QX4 which has almost 170,000 miles and all original suspension parts. What parts do you recommend replacing? I've seen on this forum that you should replace certain nuts and bearings when changing out the struts and shocks. This is what I'm planning on buying so far.
http://www.amazon.com/KYB-FRONT-REAR-sh ... Z3MAARQNEF
(2 of these) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QV ... PDKIKX0DER

Thanks for your input!


robbykennedy
Posts: 60
Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2014 2:19 pm
Car: 2003 Pathfinder SE
2005 Mercedes Benz C-Class

Post

So far you have the right concept in mind for parts to replace in the front suspension.
I learned the hard way. My mechanic was trying to save me a few bucks, he only replaced the struts, a few days later noise started to come out from the front suspension. It turned out to be the strut mounts, so I had to pay to get the strut mounts and bearings done.
I would also suggest to replace the front sway bar bushings and links. After a while they get noisy, my sway bar links were making a bit of clunk noise. I did not notice the noise until I replaced the links, then I realized how smooth and quiet my suspension is.

Also find out which KYB rear shocks they are going to ship to you, they make two different type of rear shocks. One is the Excel-G OE replacement, it is supposed to be an exact OE replacement. Some reviewer complain that this one is a bit bouncy.
They also make a Gas-A-Just monotube shock absorber, this one is supposed to be a bit more stiff. Some users like this type and is the one I am eyeballing for my 03 Pathfinder. For a moment I was going to go with the Excel-G however after the reviews decided I am going to purchase the Gas-A-Just type.

User avatar
donald
Posts: 282
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:44 pm
Car: 2001 Infiniti QX4 (RIP, 2011)
2010 Pathfinder LE
Location: Elk Grove, CA

Post

before changing out sway bar bushings and links, do check them and make sure they actually need changing :)
I've got about 210,000 miles and my sway (front and rear) bushings are all in tact (ie. no cracking, no chunks missing, no tears, etc). '
To check the sway links (2 front, 2 rear), just grab them and give them a moderate wiggle. If there's a lot of play (ie. clunking or loose feeling) then you'll want them changed out.

Also check your trailing arms. The bushings tend to go out. The trailing arms are pretty easy to spot. You've got 2 lowers and 2 uppers. These just in front of the rear axle, btw. Again, do a visual check - look for cracked rubber/bushing or missing chunks of rubber in the bushing area. Then do a "twist" check. Grab either LTA or UTA and twist them side to side. If there's a lot of play, likely the bushings are nearing end of life.
If your bushings are really bad, you may experience what's called the "death sway" or "death wobble". Basically, it feels as if the rear is sliding out to the side whenever your abruptly change acceleration.
This was apparent for me when driving highway speeds (~65mph) and once I fully release the gas pedal, the rear would kick out the the right/passenger side. And once I got back ON to the gas to continue at 65mph, the rear would kick out to the left/driver side. Unnerving feeling... especially if you drive in wet/slippery areas.

If you replace the struts - you might as well look to replace the springs. Reason being is that the mechanic will already be there and have to dissassemble the strut (ie. separate the spring and strut) to remove the front absorbers. So since the spring is already out, you could just change them at the same time.

Robbykennedy also brings up a good point - might as well change ALL the parts in the way to remove the strut assembly (ie. strut mount, bearing, rings, gaskets, nuts, bolts, etc). This should be a general practice anyway - whenever doing service, also inspect what parts will be removed/accessible during the labor work, and consider replacing those parts.
For example, when replacing an alternator, you might as well replace the alternator belt/drive belt while you're at it. Gives a little peace at mind, and you or the mechanic is already taking it off anyway - saves in future labor costs.

The factory service manual suggests replacing any suspension bolts/nuts when replacing parts (within reason of course).


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