Post by
AppleBonker »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/applebonker-u101518.html
Tue Jul 06, 2010 8:50 am
I agree with the above almost entirely. But I have a few things I would like to add (the below deals ONLY with paint for plastic components and not the metal body of the car):
The primer is very rarely a similar color to the basecoat. In fact, the only major concern in spraying the primer (on plastic components, especially OEM fascia substrate) is ensuring adequate coverage, so it really only needs to be slightly different in color from the substrate. Most paint shops (note: not aftermarket body shops) for plastic use black/grey primers, but that is because they expect them to be conductive (better basecoat/clearcoat paint transfer), and the white pigment does not meet this requirement. However, these comments apply to the normal OEM fascia which is generally composed of TPO.
If I remember correctly, the Stillen fascia is actually TPU, which is an easier substrate to stick to. In fact, the only real reason to use primer over this substrate is to mask surface imperfections. The paint should stick perfectly directly to the substrate (assuming the paint is a quality brand). This does assume that there is no mold-release exuding from the substrate, and would require the substrate to be appropriately cleaned before painting. It is also dependent on the grade of TPU used. Since I am not completely familiar with the Stillen process, a good primer would be highly recommended.
Finally, if you are able to find a shop with quality paint and an oven for baking parts, you will get the best results. A massive oven isn't actually needed, since the fascia should be sprayed when it is not attached to the car. As mentioned above, this will still require a two-component paint system (paint plus catalyst - many shops refer to catalyst as hardener). While these can cure at room temperature, this is certainly not as durable as when they are baked.
Now, to get the ideal paint for a fascia, it would be necessary to test out some of the Stillen substrate in an oven. If it could be baked up to about 250F without warping, it would be ideal to go with a one component high-bake paint system. For paint on plastic, the resins used in this type of paint are generally more flexible, and will hold up better against bending (which can happen with the fascias). One component paint should last longer with flex (less likely to crack) and should resist chipping better (less brittle). Some grades of TPU are fine at the temperature required to cure this paint. Others are not. Therefor, I cannot recommend this route.
Then again, nearly any decent body shop will be familiar with all of this. Don't use Maaco, and just find a reputable shop in your area. They should know what to do.
