P1564, B1049, B1054 codes

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Tue May 23, 2023 6:57 pm

My daughter's 2009 Rogue has the airbag light flashing.
I used my Autel to scan it and the codes are as follows:

P1564 - ASCD switch
B1049 (Past) Driver Airbag
B1054 (Past) Driver Airbag

I cleared everything and let her drive around again and it came back with the same codes the next day.
I don't understand how something that is "Past" can come back that quick and still be labeled "Past".

Since all 3 code have to do with the steering wheel, I am thinking maybe that coil spring or clock spring in the steering wheel may be bad?
I am thinking of clearing it again, then drive it and see if the airbag flashing comes on when I turn the steering wheel.
Then I would suspect the coil. But if it comes on just as I start the car, then what?

Any advice?

Also I looked up the part. Is this it ? "Nissan B5567-CM35ACombination Switch Body" for $258. Thats rather expensive. Is there a place that I can get it cheaper ( NEW) ?

Post by **VStar650CL** » Tue May 23, 2023 8:21 pm

It's the clockspring, there's noplace else the airbag and cruise signals meet. It only takes a momentary disconnect in the clockspring flex cable to set the code, and in the beginning that's what happens, a series of momentary disconnects when the wheel is turned. As the failure progresses, the codes will go "current" and stay that way.

That part number supersedes to a B5567-CB66A. Search both numbers on eBay and Amazon and you'll get China-cheap hits for as little as $17 or genuine for as low as $113.

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Tue May 23, 2023 8:42 pm

Great !! Thank you for this info!!

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Wed May 24, 2023 1:50 pm

2 questions...

I have a Haynes manual ( YEA YEA I KNOW!!!) and it says to remove the steering nut.

1) Can the nut be reused? ( some cars you can;t and some you can)
2) The manual says to do the relearn procedure and must be done by a qualified tech. REALLY ??? How do I get around this when I put the new clock spring in?

BTW.. I decided to get the part online from Toyota. I don't trust Chinese parts for this kind of thing. found 1 for $235.

Post by **VStar650CL** » Wed May 24, 2023 2:35 pm

Road wheels straight ahead before you start. After removing the nut, pay attention to the location of the match marks on the shaft and wheel. They're usually slightly dislocated left or right and you want to get the wheel back on in exactly the same spot. The SAS and clockspring are separate pieces but attach to one another, so after you remove the clockspring, match mark the SAS body and rotator collar so they can go on the new clockspring in exactly the same orientation. That way there's no need to recalibrate. The wheel nut is reusable, torque is about 25 lbs/ft. When reinstalling it, tighten, back off, then tighten again to make sure it's fully seated on the splines.

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Thu May 25, 2023 4:16 am

Great!! Thank you again!!

Post by **VStar650CL** » Thu May 25, 2023 4:25 am

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Fri May 26, 2023 1:06 pm

Just for fun, i decided to do a little test.

I started the engine and cleared the code, with the steering wheel straight.
All good, no lights. I turned the steering wheel all the way to the right. No light blinking.
Turned it to the left and about 1/2 way, the air bag light started flashing.

That was enough to make me order a new clock spring.

Post by **VStar650CL** » Fri May 26, 2023 1:30 pm

Sounds like you didn't have the new one centered. One turn off and the cable will snap internally a turn before you hit the lock. On an OE clockspring you can trust the clip they put on them to keep them in the center position, but with aftermarket clocksprings I always turn them to one stop, turn back to the other stop while counting turns, then back off halfway. That way I know it's in the center position and nobody at the factory in Hung Lo can screw me up.

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Fri May 26, 2023 3:02 pm

Sorry, I didn't explain clear enough.
I was testing the original part before I order the new one.
I was just wanting to see if I could get it to light up just by turning the steering wheel, and it did.

New part on order from Nissan. and will install it in about 10 days.

Post by **VStar650CL** » Fri May 26, 2023 4:49 pm

Ah, gotcha. If you take the old piece apart after you replace it, you'll see why they often behave that way. The connections are through a flexible printed circuit which coils and uncoils as the wheel turns, just like a clockspring. When the conductors start to split, it usually first shows up when the spring is tightest and makes contact again when it's in a more relaxed position. Eventually it splits completely and whatever it's connecting stops working, but that can take awhile.

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Wed Jun 07, 2023 9:05 am

OK... The part finally arrived.
ONE question before I start on it.
There is a little clip on the clockspring that I am sure is to keep it centered, before I remove it and install.
Should I trust it, or should I remove it and count the turns clockwise and counter clockwise and get it centered?

FYI...I ordered B5567-CB66A and the Nissan site says it matches my daughter's car (I entered the VIN).
After I ordered the part, they changed the part# to "Switch Housing B5567JM00B".
That got me concerned, but after looking at it more, the site says B5567-CB66a is for 2WD while the corrected part is for a AWD.

I find it strange the 2WD and AWD have different part# for a clock spring.
But oh well.. at least what I got was about $150, while the original order was $235.
Unless it is different because my daughter's car has features in the steering wheel that other Rogues don't?

Post by **VStar650CL** » Wed Jun 07, 2023 9:46 am

I'd call the dealer Parts Dept with your VIN about the number. It's probably just a supersession but it won't hurt to make sure.

You can trust the centering on a genuine part, it's only aftermarket stuff I've ever seen problems with.

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Tue Jun 27, 2023 3:11 pm

I just now got started and immediately ran into a problem.
When I tried to take the 2 torx screws out to remove the horn/airbag, the screws will not budge!
NOTE: I am aware that this torx screw has a pin in the middle so the bit must have a hole for it to fit.

I am probably putting 20-25 foot lbs on it to break it loose and it wont even budge.

Any ideas? Is it left handed threads?

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Tue Jun 27, 2023 4:48 pm

Well, I improvised and got a 1/4 long socket and put the torx in there and it stripped.
Now what? Try to grind the pin out so I can use a normal torx and try to hammer it in?

Post by **VStar650CL** » Tue Jun 27, 2023 6:26 pm

Yowch, that's a bad situation. They're not lefties but they do always have thread-locker on them. If you can drill or grind the security pin to get the bit all the way to the bottom, that's probably the best option. Otherwise you may need to drill them completely out.

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Tue Jun 27, 2023 6:37 pm

When you say drill them completely out, you mean drill the whole screw out and end up having to replace the horn/airbag because I drilled the threads out also?

what about drilling a small hole and keep enlarging it, until I see the threads of the airbag unit, then try to remove the threads of the screw?
Surely if the threads of the screw was all that is left, I might be able to pry the airbag unit off?

Or should I drill larger, and then die tap the hole larger and reuse the airbag unit and use the next size larger screw?

Post by **VStar650CL** » Tue Jun 27, 2023 7:08 pm

If you want to drill, you should be able to use a drill larger than the 6mm threads and take the heads off the screws without destroying the bag. But hacking the cover off it might be a better idea. Even if the cover can't be replaced, I'm seeing good used wheels on eBay for $50.

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Wed Jun 28, 2023 5:20 am

I am trying to understand what to expect.
If I drill, am I drilling to where the arrow is?
Doe that mean the frame for the airbag has no thread, and the torx screw goes thru the frame.
Then the threaded part goes into the steering wheel?

So once I drill thru ( up to the arrow), the airbag should come right out (undamaged)?

Post by **VStar650CL** » Wed Jun 28, 2023 7:00 am

No, I'm talking about drilling the head off of it. If you go in the direction you pointed you need to cut, not drill.

: AB Screw.jpg (16.36 KiB) Viewed 3231 times

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Wed Jun 28, 2023 8:30 am

Sorry, I didn't explain clearly what I wanted to do.
I know to drill from the top. What I wanted to know was when to stop drilling (at the red point?).
I would think if I just drilled the head off, that will not work.
The screw has to go through 2 metal plates (air bag plate and steering wheel plate).
I am hoping the air bag portion is just a hole, while the steering wheel bracket is where the threaded part goes through.

Therefore, if i drill to the red mark, it goes thru the airbag metal portion, but stops at the threads for the steering wheel. see new photo

Post by **VStar650CL** » Wed Jun 28, 2023 9:49 am

The bag plate should just be a hole, so once you get the head off the screw, you should be able to get a hook tool behind it and lever it past the remnant screw neck without harming the bag.

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Wed Jun 28, 2023 11:10 am

OK thank you for your ideas. I think I will take a pointed punch and knock out that pin in the torx screw.
Then try to drill the head off.

New screws are on order at the dealer and will pick up in a few days.

I hope there are no more surprises!

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Fri Jul 07, 2023 3:35 pm

OK.. some progress was made. I am taking my time and really thinking things through.
I didn't want to just start drilling and taking a chance on damaging anything or making things worse.

So I got 2 new screws from Nissan. Then went to the hardware store to get a 5/32 inch copper tube.
Also got a 5/32 drill bit. The tube was 1 foot long, but I cut about 2" off.

The purpose of this was to insert the tube to the center of the screw and insert the drill bit, so that I can drill that pin out, and ends up making a pilot hole.
The metal tube acts as a guide for the drillbit and keeps things centered.
You only need to drill slightly deeper than the pin ( about 1/8 " or slightly more)/ The pin in the center of the screw is probably 1/16 or 3/32".

I was able to remove the pin, and ended up with a 1/16'hole in the middle. When my daughter can let go of the car for about an hour, I plant o get a bigger drill bit and drill the heads off.
See below for the parts...

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Thu Jul 13, 2023 9:13 am

New issue...

I did everything.. replaced the clock coil. There was no issues and everything went smoothly.
I cleared the codes and airbag light went off.

I started the engine and the airbag light is still flashing. Before there were two "past" codes.

Now there is a B1052 Current - B1052 Nissan Code - Driver Air Bag Module Short

Code B1052 Nissan Possible Causes
Faulty Driver Air Bag
Faulty Spiral Cable Driver
Air Bag harness is shorted
Driver Air Bag circuit poor electrical connection

So is it safe to remove the air bag and see if the code is still there?
Also another recommendation is to reset the airbag module.
How do I do that?

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Thu Jul 13, 2023 9:25 am

Did some more analysis...

Before I started on the job, the airbag was flashing continuously.

Now it has one LONG flash, then 2 short flashes.
Any idea what that means?

I just now removed the airbag and ran a scan.
Now it shows
B1049 Current - driver airbag module open
B1054 Current - driver airbag module open.

I checked the wires on the airbag and do not see any bare wire that could cause a short ( from previous code AFTER i did the replacement of clockspring)

Post by **VStar650CL** » Thu Jul 13, 2023 10:02 am

That sounds like you may have damaged one of the push-locks on the airbag connectors, or didn't push it in fully. The locks don't look like much, but they disable a shorting circuit inside the connector that prevents the bag from discharging if the connector is loose, and also alerts the Brain that there's a problem. The connector won't make proper contact if a lock is compromised.

Post by **Rockhoundrob** » Thu Jul 13, 2023 10:30 am

WOW VStar!! YOU are the MAN!!

When you said the push locks was not fully seated, I went ahead and put the airbag back on and MADE sure the push locks stayed down.
One of the pushlocks was a bit more difficult to push, but I double checked everything. I bet the first time, one of them was not quite seated fully.

ALL GOOD NOW!!
Thank you VERY MUCH for your HELP!!

Post by **VStar650CL** » Thu Jul 13, 2023 11:00 am

P1564, B1049, B1054 codes

P1564, B1049, B1054 codes

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