My 2001 Pathfinder is throwing a code that I believe is affecting its cold start ability and possibly more.

P1165 – Fuel Trim Inactive Per Ignition Bank 2 High

I can erase the code with my handheld and the code will be active again within 10 minutes, although my CEL doesnt illuminate usually for a few drive cycles.

I dont understand this code or what it is signifying. My car threw a code for the rear 02 passenger sensor but after soaking the tip of the sensor in gas for the night that code hasnt come back, but I havent gone for many long drives. The real problem is some cold starts where the engine is dead cold it will crank for 4-5 seconds before it reluctantly catches, usually with the help of the gas pedal. Will start perfect fine when warm and just running.

Can someone explain this code to me and what if could signify.

When we bought the vehicle we replaced the fuel filter with a house brand one from a local auto shop, only thing I can think of fuel related that may have caused this error.

Appreciate any help in a possible fix, I am hoping to hand the car down to my son.

1165 is the swirl control valve, and shouldn't have anything to do with fuel trim as far as I know. Page 26 in the engien control section of the FSM shows a good vacuum diagram if you want to try and trace hoses. Looking at the other codes that you have listed one of the common possibilities that it could be is a vacuum leak. I'd start with following hoses as that's free.

Really??

I have been to refering to this website

http://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2/P1100

And they indeed have it listed wrong....

Well darn I knew I had a swirl valve CEL I while ago, replaced the vacuum lines completely. Problem never went away

My gift to you:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/2001/

(...just in case you didn't have it already...)

Thanks I did download the 2002 but didnt see that one.

I really with they would list the Nissan specific error codes in there, cant believe I just thought a swirl valve problem was fuel related because I was silly to believe a proper looking link

There alot of diagnostic procedures it seems for the swirl check valve, can anyone help me out with what test would suit my problem hthe best??

They are very hard to understand but with a little help I think I can do them, just need them a little better explained in woman terms haha, I have no problem checking voltages and resistances, but never quite get how the FSM shows to do it, or where its saying to do it to. I can get pictures of anything requested if it will help explain.

Thanks so much!!

I'll take a look and see if I can laymanize them tomorrow.

Would be much appreciated!!

If I am online and see a reply I will make posts with pics if I can as fast as possible to get alot done, to show how I am trying or whichever the test shows.

So here is what I was able to take away from it. When the engine is off or is not warmed up, there should be continuity between the two wires that connect to the valve. Once it is idling and warmed up, there should be no continuity between them. There should also be vacuum present when it is warm and idling as well. If there is no vacuum, then it's either a bad swirl control solenoid or bad plumbing. If there is vacuum and there is no continuity the wiring might be bad, or it might not have high enough vacuum if your car is idling rough (not sure if it is or not).

There are a few vacuum lines involved, so I dont know which to check there.

Also how to you test "continuity", there is one plug Ive identified as the swirl valve plug, with 2 wires, but I dont quite get the test

The car seems to run fine, it may or may not have a vacuum leak though

Sorry I took so long to get back. You would be looking for vacuum at the sensor. Testing for continuity would be using a multimeter and checking the resistance between the to pins on the sensor.

Pulled the harness connection at the power valve solenoid, checked resistance between the 2 male terminals, my reader showed .4 ohm, but my test leads show .4 resistance when touched together. So after subtracting my test leads resistance it would be next to nothing resistance wise at the sensor

It shows resistance though, just very little, what kind of numbers should I have there?

That's what it should show when the car is running and cool. Once it is warmed up, there should be either very high resistance or infinite if there is a vacuum there. If you are still seeing the low resistance once it has warmed up, pull the hose off the back and make sure that there is some suction.

There is definetely good vacuum at the check solenoid with the car running

You need to check that vacuum at the sensor, not at the solenoid.

I guess I dont understand which "sensor" is in question