P1110 cel, Has anyone solved it?

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CanuckQx4
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Hey guys, I have a P1110 code again, which throws a CEL within 15 minutes. Ive seen a few threads on this code with zero results or success stories.

If anyone remembers, I swapped in a low mileage 3.5L into my Qx4 just last year (but havent driven it since as its my winter vehicle) and within 20 minutes that code is back, and after clearing it, it came right back. I also had this exact code on my last engine, so it has carried over between 2 engines.

Im hoping for some insight on how to get this code to go away, my province requires the CEL to be off, and not pending, and all drive systems to be in "ready" mode while doing the emissions test which requires driving for 50+ miles after clearing the light, which will surely make the light come back on and I wont be able to even attempt to pass the test.

Any solutions :gotme


greengumby
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Car: 2002 Pathfinder- "ole Rusty"
2006 Honda Pilot
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I am sure you have been already on this a lot already ...sorry I can not help any more on this ....

P1110 NISSAN

P1110 NISSAN - Intake Valve Timing Control Bank 1

Possible causes

- Faulty Intake valve timing control solenoid valve
- Intake valve timing control solenoid valve harness is open or shorted
- Intake valve timing control solenoid valve may be faulty
- Crankshaft position sensor (POS) may be faulty
- Camshaft position sensor


Tech notes

Since the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve uses oil flow to control timing, dirty oil can cause the valve to stuck open or close. Before replacing the valve, change engine oil and filter and reset engine code.


When is the code detected?

When there is a gap between angle of target and phase-control angle degree, the valve will stop working and the Engine Control Module (ECM) will trigger the P1110 code.

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CanuckQx4
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Yeah the only fix I really see is switching to 10w-40 oil

Buzzman
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Are you sure you want to go with that heavy an oil in that engine? Especially with winter coming on?
I go the opposite route and run 5w20 Mobil1. Easy cold starts that way, and no loss of lubrication.
12 years and no oil leaks or burning.

Krivera
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Car: 1997 Infinity Q45

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I have a Q45 1997 I replaced the MAF sensor and im getting the P1110 which is the intake valve timing sensor I ordered the part and will be installing it Friday, the problem is car runs for about 10 minutes and dies 10 minutes later it starts back up and repeats itself Ive heard the sensor isnt reconizing the cam position and shutting the car off. will installing the sensor fix my problem??????????

greengumby
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Buzzman wrote:Are you sure you want to go with that heavy an oil in that engine? Especially with winter coming on?
I go the opposite route and run 5w20 Mobil1. Easy cold starts that way, and no loss of lubrication.
12 years and no oil leaks or burning.
I don't mean to highjack the thread I was planning to use the 5w30 in ... 5w20 is a little better I take it for these engines?

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CanuckQx4
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5w20 is to thin, oil pressure will be to low.

I do have a few sensors I removed from my previous QX4 engine, that engine ran great, but still had a p1110, this new engine has a slgith misfire/sputter and die until its warmed up. Now sure if there is a specific sensor that is tied to this code?

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CanuckQx4
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Truck seems to sumble for the first minute until it warms up, if you try and drive it while its stumbling the rpms seem to cut out and you can feel the truck lose all power and almost backfire/pop, or wait the few minutes for it to warm up and the truck runs perfect...

Could be one/both/all of these sensors on the front of the engine?

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CanuckQx4
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Figured out my stumbling problem, my air filter was disconnected.....

Truck runs perfect now, but is still throwing a p1110 very fast.

Is the sensor that is affected for this code on the passenger side and near the backside of the engine? I happened to have a spare sensor for the passenger side but the one that is at the front corner of the engine, Im under the assumption there may be one on the side aswell ??

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CanuckQx4
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bump

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CanuckQx4
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Does anyone know what side of the engine p1110 is refering to?

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asnorton44
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CanuckQx4 wrote:Does anyone know what side of the engine p1110 is refering to?
P1110: Intake Valve Timing Control (Right Hand, or Passenger Side)

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CanuckQx4
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thank you, is there more than one sensor and solenoid per side? All I can see is the sensor on the front side of the engine about a third of the way down

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asnorton44
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CanuckQx4 wrote:thank you, is there more than one sensor and solenoid per side? All I can see is the sensor on the front side of the engine about a third of the way down
One per side; these are the crankshaft sensors right?

I had to replace mine before - but mine threw P1140 Intake Valve Timing Control Performance Bank 1 and the sensor fixed it didn't have to replace the valve.

Image
Image

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CanuckQx4
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OK thank you, I swapped the 2 sensors, hopefully the code jumps the the other side

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CanuckQx4
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P1110 came back on the drive home from work.

One thing, a little confusing though, your picture you posted with the sensor "red" is the one I removed from the passenger side, but the picture from the FSM you also posted kind of shows it on the side of the engine and to the left of the upper rad hose, when it is actually to the right of it.... :crazy: :crazy:

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CanuckQx4
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I have fund that dorman sells a solenoid of there own for only $130 with lifetime warranty, wonder if its worth it to replace the passenger side solenoid??

Or is it likely pointing to anything at this point??

The fact that it stayedf with the car even after changing engines is what nerves me, the odds of both motors having a bad solenoid?

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CanuckQx4
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Truck threw a p0175 today (bank to rich) aswell as the P1110.....

02 sensor time aswell?

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spike753
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If the the timing control is off that may indeed cause it to run rich therfore the o2 sensor may be doing its job.


I don't think it is random that both engines gave you this code... There has to be something to that...

Which components did you carry over from the old engine if any related to the code? The harness perhaps? Or crank sensor?

The common link between the 2 engines may very well be the way the vehicle is used. You mentioned that you don't drive it except during the winter. I imagine that was always the case with both engines...

When you first did the engine swap i imagine you drove it and used it for awhile to make sure all was well? Did it throw the code then or just now after being un-used for some time?

Since the tech notes specifiy that the valve uses oil flow to control timing then if it sits for awhile with no flow then then things like humidity and time with no flow movement can take affect ruining the viscosity and making things sticky...


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