Can these two sensors being bad cause a loud knock?



All the best,
~HollywoodJackson~

Compression test may be the quickest ,easiest test here can reveal much AND gets to which cylinder may have problem (valvetrain in question here).Also in conjunction with that - killing spark and/or injectors per cyl. during this diagnostic "round" may point to cylinder or potential cause ?? Whereas a broken spring will have a markedly different "tick" sound when no combustion in that cyl's chamber ,ya know.

macgiver wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 10, 2019 4:20 pm

Compression test may be the quickest ,easiest test here can reveal much AND gets to which cylinder may have problem (valvetrain in question here).Also in conjunction with that - killing spark and/or injectors per cyl. during this diagnostic "round" may point to cylinder or potential cause ??

I've never used a compression test kit before.



It looks like I remove one spark plug and then install the tester into that cylinder? =How do I undo each injector?

All the best,
~HollywoodJackson~

The kit you show is compression tester , where you really need to remove all your plugs , careful to NOT let debris fall into the open holes , and cranking the engine with the ECM fuse removed(for no spark & no fuel) read the gauge after 4+ (6 max )revolutions gives no more "rise" . Cylinder(s) with way low reading ,like 20% or more below the rest HAS problems.Squirt 2oz of oil to differentiate ring wear too.
The "undoing" of each cylinder's injector , or similarly cutting spark to ea. cyl. - would be acomplished by disconnecting injector , or disconnecting ea. coilpack one at a time & noting the rpm drop/ performance change AND especially ANY difference in that specific abnormal noise.All this you would try before the compression test - for it may prove to be very discerning and effective - pointing to one or more cylinders where you may then want to remove valve cover , before going further after Timing chain or even oil pan for bearing inspection
Many try to eliminate accessories , alternator , ps pump ,they're tensioner , whatever by removing belts so the only thing "runnin" is the engine

Sounds good. I'm going to have to get busy, that's for sure.

So first, unplug one coil pack, start the engine, note the RPMs. Plug coil pack in, unplug a different one. Start the engine, note the RPMs. If one particular coil pack being unplugged results in no change in a loss of idle RPM, then that's going to be the problem chamber? Also possibly I should have the belts removed for this round of testing coil packs/chambers?

When using the above kit, ideally I want to remove ALL spark plugs, and the ECU fuse, and then connect the kit to each individual chamber, and turn the engine over approximately 6 times with the compression kit attached to each chamber to see which chamber gives the low abnormal compression reading?

Sounds like a lot of work. I think an engine swap is going to be needed. Get my original engine out, bolt in one that runs, and THEN proceed to rebuild the original engine. That was my plan, before this new condition basically is now forcing my hand...

All the best,
~HollywoodJackson~

Just went out to the parking lot, and took the camshaft sensor out.

This one...



It was gunked up. Cleaned it off, decently. Cleaned out the plug connection also. Tried to start the car with it off, in a feable attempt to see if it would behave differently without that sensor plugged in. It wouldn't start. Put it back, started right up. So I suppose I', 0.02% of the way home now on finding and fixing what is wrong t=with the car...

LOL

I will be running the compression test this evening or tomorrow. I'm planning on getting parts from the junkyard this Saturday, or a complete engine to swap. Wanted to share a little more information on the current condition of the car.

From a cold start, there seems to be no loss of power. Only after the engine warms up to operating temperature, is there a loss of power. So this has me thinking that maybe the loss of power isn't from a valve or some other type of damage. Could the loss of power be a result of a combination of heat (operating temp) and the bad head gasket?

A mechanic friend said he thinks I may have warped the head bolts by driving the car with the head gasket bad...

Any thoughts?

All the best,
~HollywoodJackson~

Wow , that's your motor , that photo , seems like on left side of picture looks like the "shot from the grassy knoll" blew out the timing cover -is that bank II timing chain showing ? How repairable is that ?

LMAO no that’s just a pic off eBay I grabbed to show which sensor I checked.

Yeah that engine in the pic looks toast!

Haha

OK cause I was about to re-open the Warren Commission on that one