P0505, Is there a way to cycle IACV manually? Aftermarket buy?

[CanuckQx4]

Hi guys, Im having some trouble with my truck throwing a P0505 IACV code, seems my iacv is seized, so I went to the junkyard and pulled the IACV from the only other 3.5l they had in the yard, and it to seems seized, is there a way to manually power them to ensure operation? Anyways I installed the used part on my truck and the code went away, but my truck wont take to the idle relearn procedure, it idles @ nearly 1600rpm and when I get to the step in the relearn procedure without consult 2 machine where it says to disconnect the brown TPS connector and plug it in within 5 seconds the trucks idle increases even higher to about 2200rpm and it hits some sort of soft rev limiter and just bounces off of that repetitively.

As far as I can tell Im doing the test to the letter. TPS is confirmed calibrated, PCV is less than 10k old with new OEM part, truck is warm battery voltage good. So Im almost sure the junkyard IACV may be junk aswell (dunno how long that truck has been in the yard)



So Im looking at aftermarket IACV's, and they dont sell them with just the IACV sensor, how come? Why do they all come with the piece of cast it bolts to? Ive never removed my cast piece and always just removed the sensor itself, same with the one I pulled from the yard. Is it needed? Its surely driving up the price.

Any recommendation on what to try here? Cheers!

[Buzzman]

What about just removing the IACV from the throttle body and leaving it connected while you flip the key to the run position?
Does it move at all? You'll probably want to have someone else turn the key while you observe.
Even cranking the engine for a few seconds with it out shouldn't hurt it. The engine probably won't start, but the plunger in the IACV should move a little.

The 505 code usually means your ECM is fried, but hopefully that's not the case.
Either way, I wouldn't re-install the old one.

Think about this too: the one you took out of the junker is just as old, or older, as the one out of your truck.
Do you really want to risk installing a 10+ year old IACV in your engine? I wouldn't.
I'd go new, and OEM.

[CanuckQx4]

The ecm is not fried, I had it out just yesterday as after reading all the horror threads and thought I may need to send it for service, I opened the case is the board is spotless, the repair guy I was emailing pictures with said I do not have a problem there.

Is the IACV actually supposed to move with just turning the key though? Or is there a sure way to make it move back and forth or test its function.

Any reason to them selling you the entire cast metal assembly?