I've had this trouble code P0430 on my 2002 QX4 for a few years now.

If I clear the code it comes back within a day of driving.

Infiniti told me I need a new cat (Bank 2) at a cost of about $1,300.00

Nissan told me they would inspect for $90, that sometimes its the gaskets which only cost a few bucks, but if it's a catalytic converter would be about $900.00 to replace.
They also recommended going with a Nissan cat as opposed to an aftermarket due to only a slight increase in cost.

I don't notice any drive-ability issues due to this code, but would really like to have the code permantently cleared, the dash just looks better without the CEL. Also, am concerned from a few posts that claim the cat can get sucked back into the manifold and ruin engine... doesn't make a whole lot of sense, hasn't happened so far, but does seem to burn oil.

There isn't alot of information online regarding the P0430 code for the 2002 QX4. I've found information about a TSB on 2001 QX4's but not 2002 here:
http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/badda ... 2-050a.pdf
01-pathy-3-5-p0420-p0430-cat-effency-t199516.html

There is not alot of specific online solutions for this code...
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0430
http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl736h.htm
http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/2xmqt- ... -read.html
http://www.that dead forum/a33-2000-20 ... -help.html

Was reading here about different temperatures throughout the exhaust process that may indicate problems:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... er=1729233

so... I tried to take temp readings myself and recorded them on the following image.


Questions - which side is Bank 1 and Bank 2 - can't seem to locate numbers on the engine for which side is which...

and - is it definitely a bad cat? There seemed to be one number that was really far off from the rest of them and that was the downstream (second) O2 sensor on the drivers side... 320 degrees vs 240 degrees on the passenger side. ( I believe this to be Bank 2). Is the cat bad, or is the O2 sensor bad and can this be determined by heat as explained here? http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... er=1729233

If it's a bad O2 sensor, how do I get it out of the exhaust pipe without it breaking off like every other rusted bolt in the bottom of the vehicle? Or, should I let the dealership fix the "bad cat" for $1,000.00 and hope it doesn't return?

I have Cataclean on the way via Amazon.com... nervous about putting this stuff in the QX4 but says will clean the cat and eliminate the P0430 code...

Never heard of cataclean, but it sounds like something that could foul up injectors(guessing it goes in the gas tank).

P0430 is the passenger side cat. Replace the rear O2 sensor first. Most of the time, this does not fix P0430 but it's worth a shot and is way cheaper than a new cat. If there is Advance Auto Parts near you, order this direct-fit Bosch O2 sensor online using discount code VISA to get it for $52 before tax. Bosch is the original O2 sensor manufacturer. As for rusted O2 sensor removal, use a lot of penetrant (Nissan recommends WD-40). It would be helpful to cut the harness so you can fit an oxygen sensor wrench easier. You'll need a 22mm or 7/8" oxygen sensor socket.

Are there emissions inspections where you live?

Thanks for the reply Towncivilian.

There is no emissions inspections where I live. (Columbus, OH)

I've read that drivers side is bank 2 and that passenger side is bank 2.

A few articles that state Bank 2 is drivers side:
http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/51cdk- ... -code.html
ses-light-codes-p0430-and-p0140-t555134.html

Why do I need a oxygen sensor socket? Can I remove the O2 sensor with a crescent wrench?


Here's an interesting article that talks about "relearning" the air/fuel ratio which could be causing a P0430
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/titan/12 ... -code.html

Nonfoulers option:
http://www.that dead forum/pathfinder/ ... th-os.html

Bank 1 is the side with cylinder 1. On our VQ35DE engines, that would be the passenger side. I was mistaken (sorry, just drove 240 miles); P0430 is bank 2, thus driver's side. The sensor I linked in my other reply is still correct.

You can use a crescent wrench, sure.

You can try performing idle air volume relearn but I doubt it will achieve anything. See EC-69.

The nonfouler option is why I asked whether your state has emissions inspections. If you just want the light to go away, the nonfouler trick is the cheapest fix.

Could the increased heat on the drivers side O2 sensor, as compared to the passenger side, mean that the O2 sensor isn't working, which would cause it to call the P0430 code?

I doubt it; in such case a code would be thrown I'd imagine.

I did the non fouler tonight... Took about 30mins from start to finish. Got the non foulers (2) of them from Advanced Auto Parts for about six bucks. Picked up a vice and a half inch titanium drill bit from the hardware store. Kept oiling the non fouler as i was drilling to keep the smoke and heat down to preserve the bit. Went through the non fouler in under ten mins. Used pb blaster on the threads of the o2 sensor, waited 5 mins and hit the end of my crescent wrench lightly with a hammer until the sensor broke free. Made sure all of the shavings were cleaned out of the non fouler threads, screwed it in and then screwed the sensor into it. There was plenty of room.

Drove around for awhile and everything seemed normal. Cleared the code an now wait to see if it returns!

It will come back after 200-300 miles. Trust me. this code plagued me for months (you can see my pervious thread on it)
I had a 2001 nissan pathfinder with the code. I first replaced the o2 sensor on that cat, and no go.

Eventually I bit the bullet and bought this ( i got it form same exact seller) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Pathfind ... 1084wt_908

bank 2= drivers side.
Haven't had a problem since . Not sure if infiniti and nissan parts are the same, but go for it.

btw heres my original thread p0430-code-help-t523485.html

Mateen - did you try the non-fouler solution?

I'm feeling like the dutch boy - now I'm throwing P1130...

Tried this ... Hopefully it worked...

swirl-control-valve-actuator-scv-t440044.html

gcjazz12 wrote:Mateen - did you try the non-fouler solution?

My state has emission inspections, so I could not do that. I was pressed for time because my inspection was due that month, and I needed to renew my registration, so a quick solution was needed. Very lucky to have found a cat that cheap!

In Vancouver, we have emission inspections too, and they didn't notice my non-foulers

I'm 450 miles into the non fouler trick and no codes.

gcjazz12 wrote:I'm 450 miles into the non fouler trick and no codes.

thats great. hopefully it continues. If it does come up, you know what to do!

check engine light was on and i needed to get smog check in california!
the code was p0430
I reset the check engine light with a tool
i ran tank close to empty.
i put in 4 gal of PREMIUM Gas
I added a serving of cataclean.
i drove for about 30 miles
I added 3 more gal of gas
I waited until the monitors all showed PASS or AVAIL
qx4 passed smog check!

note this is the 2nd time in 2 years that i used cataclean to help pass the calfornia smog check. it worked for me

I'm not sure you even need the Cataclean. I bought my path with P0430 known to me and smog due soon. Out of ignorance I cleared codes, did the minimum miles for a Drive Cycle to prep for smog, parked it close to station, and went in next morning and passed. My guess is that the P0430 takes a few miles more to aggregate data shortly after Drive Cycle finishes to show pending or trigger MIL. I passed as well, and hope to in the future using same technique, but the MIL light came back on shortly after passing.

hmmm. you may have gotten lucky or maybe every mans cats are in different state of decay . i say this because ...I dont recall exactly but ... the last time i had this problem, i think i tried clearing the codes several times and i dont remember the 0430 coming back AFTER the drive cycles reset...but I will try that next time. yes cataclean wasnt cheap but it did seem to work for me.... although one variable that im just realizing is gas type. i used premium only when i did the cataclean trick,

do you use premium gas ?

I use 89. That particular MIL light eventually went out on its own after some freeway driving. Previous owners claimed to not be driving vehicle much anymore so I hoped to blow it out with Lacquer Thinner (eventually, after researching if this and other cleaners are safe).
Recently was driving car very slowly and short distances to baby a bad bearing until I could replace it and MIL came back on. Now that I'm back to freeway driving I'm curious to see if it goes out again.

I learned that these cats are bolt on, but everyone says they're impossible to get out easily without a lot of other work. I looked under car today (at left side bank 2) and it looks doable to get it out. I mean maybe a muffler shop might have to get involved for a $100 bucks but I was surprised that these Cats aren't that expensive (last 'stolen' cat on another car during covid cost me 2K).

you are lucky that you dont live in the peoples republic of california ! (im assuming you dont, maybe you do). here we have to use a specific cat that the rest of the states dont have to. its quite a bit more expensive than basic after market cats that are avail online.

I think i was quoted over 3k to replace them. the truck is not worth a whole lot more than that and its a great SUV!

yes, the damn things are bolt on but very hard to get to and bolts are super rusty. i would not attempt myself

You might be right about getting lucky. In between posts I started to read up on cleaners and then it dawned on me, inspections are only measuring tailpipe emissions (i think) so the MIL light is just an up front formality. While I definitely had to get rid of the MIL light to pass, my vehicle must have passed due to being on the cusp. ‘Perhaps’ the Drive Cycle blew a little something out or not.
I read where people use a ‘workaround’ on an O2 and then remove that just before inspection but again that’s only addressing the MIL / data history and not doing anything about what the tailpipe emissions will read. So any Cat cleaning could/should help the Cat to maybe do its job more efficiently for a while depending.

Regarding the cost of maintenance vs worth of car, it’s a numbers game for me. I look at the tax on a newer or new vehicle, higher insurance premium, instant depreciation etc. vs a bird in the hand. (one that I can actually repair for about the cost to change one headlight on a newer ‘appliance’).
Being able to work on it myself - ‘my time’ vs getting it to and from a mechanic, waiting, perhaps less thorough or shoddy work, cheap parts, aggravation. All the other minor issues I fix while while in there, and knowledge / tools gained for, either about the same cost, or often way less and how that compounds in speed and savings next time. For that new vehicle that is ‘worth’ so much more I still have an outlay to maintain it just the same with struts, brakes, tires, etc. anyways.