2007 M45. I was idling in traffic, felt a bump like somebody tapped me from behind, but the car was stalled. Never happened before. I was able to restart it but the startup was much longer and rougher than normal. No code. It would run ok for a while, then have spurts of what felt like misfiring. Low throttle was worse with occasional surges. Stalled again and finally threw a code, P0335.

Got it home and replaced the crank position sensor. Nothing changed. Did the pedal position, throttle position, and idle air learning, no change. Haven't driven it because I'm afraid to take it out of the driveway. The one thing I do notice is that it seems to idle ok at around 700rpm and feels and sounds normal. But if I give it just the tiniest bit of gas to 800-900 rpm, it "misses" continuously. I'm calling it missing but I'm not sure that's what it is, but that's what it feels like. If I release the pedal when it's at 800-900 rpm and missing, it will surge up to ~1200 for a moment before it comes back down. At higher rpm it seems OK. The P0335 code comes back.

Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks!

Three things. First, make sure the sensor has a solid 12V between the RED and BLK wires. If not, that power circuit runs from the ECM reference supply through the M72:F102 SMJ connector, make sure something hasn't got the SMJ wet. Second, the push-latch connectors used in that period were very vulnerable to water intrusion if they got beat up a bit. The sensors are pulled-up 3-wire Halls, so it only takes a small amount of corrosion to trash the CKP signal. Get a flashlight and magnifier and check the female connector pins, corroded ones will generally appear off-color and not shiny. Lastly, any Hall will be sensitive to bad grounding, so backprobe the BLK wire and do a voltage drop test to the chassis (not the engine block) with the engine idling. Anything more than about 40mV indicates undue resistance in the ground path. If it's high, to see if that's the issue, use the backprobe for an external ground jumper to the body and see if the sensor's disposition improves. Note that the ground path also runs back into the car through M72:F102, that's why you check to the body and not the block. So it's possible your whole issue is a crummy gang-ground underneath the dash.

I would like to verify that you replaced the correct sensor.
Did you go under the car and replace the sensor located at the bottom of the transmission bellhousing near the engine?


Also, I would like to verify that you used the correct sensor.
Did you purchase an OEM crankshaft sensor from a Nissan or Infiniti source?

EdBwoy wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 11, 2021 7:33 am

Also, I would like to verify that you used the correct sensor.
Did you purchase an OEM crankshaft sensor from a Nissan or Infiniti source?

+1. I can't tell you how much time and grief people cost themselves with aftermarket CMP's and CKP's. I'm not against aftermarket for many items, but for CKP's, CMP's and MAF's, stick to Nissan.

I'm 99% sure it was the correct sensor. It was on the very bottom of the transmission where it mates to the engine, kind of pointing towards the engine. I did the camshaft position sensor a year or two ago, so I know where that one is, and the sensor looks like it was the exact same part*. That was a super easy job, this one wasn't only because I had to lift the car on my gravel driveway.

The new part wasn't an OEM sensor. I will pick one up and put it in this weekend and see if it makes a difference.

* When I did the camshaft sensor, I did get the OEM sensor and noted that the current Nissan part has a metal shell as opposed to the all-plastic parts that came out.

The crankshaft sensor that was in had the cable folded back over the connector, electrical tape wrapped around both and then zip-tied. I've had the car for the last 13 of its 14 years so I feel like it must have come from the factory like that, unless the dealer did it at some point - but as far as I know it has never been out. It was just interesting in light of the comment about water intrusion issues.

randatola wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 11, 2021 10:46 am

The crankshaft sensor that was in had the cable folded back over the connector, electrical tape wrapped around both and then zip-tied. I've had the car for the last 13 of its 14 years so I feel like it must have come from the factory like that, unless the dealer did it at some point - but as far as I know it has never been out. It was just interesting in light of the comment about water intrusion issues.

That fold-back bit is done in some cases where the wire coming straight out would risk chafing or vibration, the tie-back turns it into a right-angle without have to fold the wires a hard 90. It isn't common, but chances are it is factory.

The camshaft and crankshaft sensors are the same. You could do a swap if you feel like further experimentation. Yes, it's advisable to go with oem (23731-4M50B).

Costee wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 11, 2021 3:21 pm

The camshaft and crankshaft sensors are the same. You could do a swap if you feel like further experimentation. Yes, it's advisable to go with oem (23731-4M50B).

I just picked up the part, haven't put it in yet, but the Nissan part is up to a new revision: 23731-4M50D.

Ok. Keep us updated.

It worked! Switched it out, started right up and purred like a kitten. No issues. So the lesson learned is stick with the OEM sensors. Thanks for all the help! I'm glad it was that simple, saved me from having to figure out all that electrical stuff VStar650CL was talking about.

For reference here are pictures of the new sensor, and a shot of the looking into the guts of the thing (best I could do, and I have no idea what it's supposed to look like).

All's well that ends well. Enjoy your ride.

Can you paste a link where you got this sensor? The ones I have been getting, are all plastic made.

I got it from the parts department at the local Nissan dealership. It was $57.72.

randatola wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 12, 2021 2:50 pm

It worked! Switched it out, started right up and purred like a kitten. No issues. So the lesson learned is stick with the OEM sensors. Thanks for all the help! I'm glad it was that simple, saved me from having to figure out all that electrical stuff VStar650CL was talking about.

For reference here are pictures of the new sensor, and a shot of the looking into the guts of the thing (best I could do, and I have no idea what it's supposed to look like).

This is the first time I have seen a crank sensor that he a metallic end s yours. All the ones I have seen online, are the ones with the all through plastic. I'm just wondering, if the metallic ended ones are more durable or something.

Dxta wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 19, 2021 12:38 pm

This is the first time I have seen a crank sensor that he a metallic end s yours. All the ones I have seen online, are the ones with the all through plastic. I'm just wondering, if the metallic ended ones are more durable or something.

The ashcan sensors are actually an older style, the newest ones are all plastic and epoxy.

I wish I had viewed this post sooner. I just finished getting new variable timing solenoids installed on my '14 Rogue. Car runs great now, but I had bought an aftermarket Delphi camshaft position sensor to swap in and make sure it wasn't just a sensor before I took it to the dealer. It wasn't the sensor. After the solenoids were replaced the car ran great, but it cranked a lot longer each time before it would start. And the Rogue was always very good about cranking right up. Fortunately I had saved the OEM sensor and after I put it back in the car starts and runs like it should again. I would have only "saved" about $20 by buying an aftermarket sensor, but it ended up in the trash so it actually ended up costing me about $40. Yes, use OEM sensors and parts as much as you can! Especially for the Rogue which often offers up parts numbers based on U.S., Korea, or Japan point of manufacture.