P0011 fix?

[baucke]

Had this code show up. Searched the forum and have been through the oil change without improving the situation. Engine still idles quite rough. Even tried the idle learn a couple times just be sure (boy is that easy on a 2002 QX4).

So, it seems that I am down to replacing the solenoid. I was going to try to clean it, but it looks like I can't easily just remove one bolt and pull the solenoid out of the assembly - hard pipe in the way. If I have to go to the effort at this point to remove the whole assembly, I'd rather just put a new one on.

So, for the question - is replacing the whole thing really the ultimate solution to P0011? And everything else I have read is a way to be smart about it and save a few bucks on a potentially expensive part?

Thanks.
Kevin

[Rockwood]

There is a gear assembly under the passenger side valve cover that sometimes sticks a little. Or sometimes it is accumulated dirt and debris in the oil galleries.

A couple of people have used Seafoam in the engine to cure that code. I think you can run it up to 300 miles before you drain the oil. I'm sure their website will have details.

I would give it a try - as I say there are a couple of people that had luck with it.

[PathyPop]

See my thread on this code and the P0021 for the other side. I would not run out and buy expensive new solenoids, save your money, at least for now. They are very easy to remove and clean, and test with a volt meter, or 12v (hear them click). I got so good at removing them it only takes 10 minutes. Just be careful with the gasket but it is metal and reusable as long as you don't bend it.

But, before you put them back on, run about 20 or 30 PSI of compressed air through each of the exposed oil journals on top of the engine where you removed the solenoid. This is the last thing I did over a year ago and it's worked great, 15k miles since. As Rockwood mentioned, I believe running the air through the journals back flushed any sludge or debris that was in the small passages of the phaser mechanism that controls the valves.

[baucke]

Thanks.

I went with seafoam as suggested. Cleared the codes and I've driven about 100 miles with the seafoam in it. So far so good, code has not returned. P0011 did show up as a pending code, but never triggered an actual fault, and has also since cleared itself. Maybe I'm hoping too much, but it's looking good so far.

Good to know the gasket is reusable. Am I correct to conclude that on the passenger side a simple removal of the one bolt holding the solenoid body is not possible - instead the three bolts holding the whole assembly in place need to come out?

Idle still a little rough, but does not stumble or hesitate when getting on the gas. Perfectly smooth at anything above 1000 RPM.

I'll update after 300 miles on seafoam and another oil change.

[PathyPop]

Correct, the solenoid core does not have room to side out. But don't be afraid to remove the three bolts. The whole unit comes off easy and it's best to clean completely anyway. I think the cores are the same for both IRCC, but the body asmblys are left and right.

The solenoid doesn't begin to advance until exactly 2k rpm, fully advancing by 3k rpm. It shouldn't affect idle at all since it is not activated at this rpm, it didn't for ours. When we got the code the ECM would go into limp mode. Once at 2k and in limp mode with rpm limited, it runs terrible.

[baucke]

I appreciate that it does not advance until 2-3K RPM, couldn't it also get stuck in advance mode and screw up the idle or low end power? I never had a loss of power at speed, just low RPM roughness.

(Saying this because I have a 99 Volvo with this exact condition, and after running though all the cleaning I could do, it's down to buying parts that exceed the value of the car. It idles rough, but still gets high 20s and sometimes 30 MPG on the highway, so I can't complain. Been driving 30K miles like this with the CEL light coming and going as it sees fit.)

Regardless, for now the code remains gone. Any remaining rough idle could have another cause, and that's a project for another day.

[NycQX4]

Am I have the same problem except on the other side P0021. I've changed the oil 3 times, once to get it to standard 5w-30 (had synthetic, which is when the code started). Then added seafoam thru the throttle body and changed. Finally, adding seafoam to the motor oil running it for 300 miles and changed. The code is still there. I cleaned the CPS, it had some sludge on it. I can not find the VVT solenoid. Do you have a picture of where it is? Looked at the EM manual, it looks like its on the top right (facing engine).

Thanks.

[PathyPop]

Here's a youtube vid, but search for others. Also, I am reminded that you can get this code if you have a bad cam sensor (CPS). If you have a Pick-A-Part near by you can get one for about $5, otherwise I think they are ~$60 at the dealer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-dXDHLqGd4

baucke - you could have a bad CPS and this did not cause limp mode for us. Try just disconnecting the solenoid and it should go right to limp mode (to test). It could cause your rough idle too.

[NycQX4]

Thanks. Took the solenoid out and it’s clean. No sludge at all . Will try to replace CPS, to see if it will help. Is there a way to test it before replacing?

[PathyPop]

Before you reinstall the solenoid run some compressed air through the passages on the engine side (where the solenoid body bolts up). That was the last thing I did and no codes since, now over 15k miles. After everything I tried I'm convinced that cured the problem.

Not sure how to test the CPS, maybe a ohm meter, but if I recall you can swap the sensors bank to bank to see if the code follows. They won't bolt up since the bolt holes are at different angles, but the sensor part will fit and stay in place just to test. Hope this makes sense.