Someone PLEASE help me! Any write-ups on O2 sensor removals for the drivers and passengers side? I'm having the worst time trying to get mine out! It is waaaay to tight in there to do anything, TIPS, tricks, advice very highly appreciated.
Please help!
Oxygen Sensor Removal on NA
Re: Oxygen Sensor Removal on NA
Greetings! and Welcome to NICO!
To begin with, when I replaced mine I first let them soak in PB blaster for a couple hrs. you can also use WD-40. For the passenger side you have to remove the battery for best clearance and an open socket is your best friend along with a long extension. If you don't have an open socket, you can still get in there with a wrench but it is tight. As for the driver side, sockets are not an option. When i took that one off it came out with the piece it screws in to, but nonetheless it came out. Once out be sure to clean as much of the lube as you can as it will smoke when you get her going again.
Let me know how it goes and good luck
To begin with, when I replaced mine I first let them soak in PB blaster for a couple hrs. you can also use WD-40. For the passenger side you have to remove the battery for best clearance and an open socket is your best friend along with a long extension. If you don't have an open socket, you can still get in there with a wrench but it is tight. As for the driver side, sockets are not an option. When i took that one off it came out with the piece it screws in to, but nonetheless it came out. Once out be sure to clean as much of the lube as you can as it will smoke when you get her going again.
Let me know how it goes and good luck
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RubyRed300ZX
- Posts: 417
- Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2010 2:24 pm
- Car: 1993 300zx Convertible
Re: Oxygen Sensor Removal on NA
You'll need a 7/8" crow foot, heavy duty universal joint attached to the crowfoot, about 2 feet of socket extensions, 18" plus breaker bar and remove the battery for the right side.
It's going to make one hell of an ugly noise when it breaks loose.
It will scare you when it pops loose; but, all will be well. Be sure to use some small pieces of paper towel jammed into the universal joint as well as with the extensions if they fit loose.
It's going to make one hell of an ugly noise when it breaks loose.
It will scare you when it pops loose; but, all will be well. Be sure to use some small pieces of paper towel jammed into the universal joint as well as with the extensions if they fit loose.-
itsa300zx
- Posts: 1287
- Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 9:39 am
- Car: 1990 300zx NA W/TT swap
2011 Nissan Rogue S
2008 Highlander SR5 - Location: up North
Re: Oxygen Sensor Removal on NA
Ive also found that running the car for a few minutes to warm the fittings up slightly helps too, along with PB blaster over night.
Re: Oxygen Sensor Removal on NA
Thanks for the tips guys! I appreciate it. I managed to get them out and installed the new ones. Passenger side was easy. Took me 20 mins. Driver side was a bit of a nightmare.
Went for an emissions test today and failed.
I passed the low idle for both HC and CO. However failed the high idle for HC and CO.
The limit for the high idle HC was 200, I scored 506. The limit for the high idle CO was 1, I scored 3.
Car runs smooth. Can't figure this one out. Any ideas, or suggestions?
Question: what is the exact procedure for the emissions test trick (pulling the vac line off the balance tube or fuel regulator). I'm not sure if I'm doing it correctly. Someone told me I need to cap something, or plug, but I'm not sure what they were saying.
Went for an emissions test today and failed.
I passed the low idle for both HC and CO. However failed the high idle for HC and CO.
The limit for the high idle HC was 200, I scored 506. The limit for the high idle CO was 1, I scored 3.
Car runs smooth. Can't figure this one out. Any ideas, or suggestions?
Question: what is the exact procedure for the emissions test trick (pulling the vac line off the balance tube or fuel regulator). I'm not sure if I'm doing it correctly. Someone told me I need to cap something, or plug, but I'm not sure what they were saying.
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DCaff300ZX
- Posts: 4202
- Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
- Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified - Location: Tacoma, Washington
Re: Oxygen Sensor Removal on NA
Congrats with the O2 replacement, that's not an easy job. FYI if you didn't know, the O2's affect emissions so if they are not hooked correctly or bad out of the box, it could be part of your emissions fail. Check for codes, a bad O2 will throw a code for bad R or L O2.
Honestly though, I think that A) using any "tricks" is bad news because you aren't the originator of it (know exactly the what, why, and how of what you are doing), and B) not looking to correctly repair your car cheats you and the car, and not anyone else. Emissions repairs are among the cheapest and easiest repairs on the Z32, so if you are not willing to buck up and fix her right in this case, you are not going to do well with a Z32 when other, more major issues and problems arise.
So put all of the hoses back where they should be which will remove a large vacuum leak that from what you wrote most likely occurred from your "cheat" attempt and ruined your test, and look to actually fix the car by testing and replacing the fuel pressure regulator and fuel dampner if necessary, and do some maintenance checking of connections to injector and idle control valve, and PTU harness. About $200 or less in parts at worst, and an afternoon of your time. If that all does not bear fruit, check back and hopefully we can help more from having some test results and hard info to work with.
The online service manual also has a section that will help you with tests and possibilities for your problem.
Good Luck!
Honestly though, I think that A) using any "tricks" is bad news because you aren't the originator of it (know exactly the what, why, and how of what you are doing), and B) not looking to correctly repair your car cheats you and the car, and not anyone else. Emissions repairs are among the cheapest and easiest repairs on the Z32, so if you are not willing to buck up and fix her right in this case, you are not going to do well with a Z32 when other, more major issues and problems arise.
So put all of the hoses back where they should be which will remove a large vacuum leak that from what you wrote most likely occurred from your "cheat" attempt and ruined your test, and look to actually fix the car by testing and replacing the fuel pressure regulator and fuel dampner if necessary, and do some maintenance checking of connections to injector and idle control valve, and PTU harness. About $200 or less in parts at worst, and an afternoon of your time. If that all does not bear fruit, check back and hopefully we can help more from having some test results and hard info to work with.
The online service manual also has a section that will help you with tests and possibilities for your problem.
Good Luck!