overheating

[bootman]

my car only over heats on the highway.I replaced my turbo with a new t25 I didn't put the heat shield back on.I drove the car around hard every thing was okay I get on the highway I ride for about 5mins at 3200rpm and temp start to rise, so I replaced the thermostat and bleed the system 3 times ,go back out beat up on the car the temps are okay jump on the highway and they go back up .Any idea's do I need to put the heat shield on ? I do not see any water dipping from the water pump or the turbo,I also replace the throttle body can the coolant lines be hooked up wrong.

Thanks

[dj_lennon_franz]

r u using a fan shroud on yer clutch fan??? do you still have yer clutch fan???

if you get rid of yer clutch fan and replace them with dual electric fans youre killing ur cooling...put the clutch fan and shroud back on...they move the most air out of ANY fan thats able to be put on the S13

i also noticed you have a FMIC...do remember with that FMIC ur blocking ALOT of air going to the radiator

you can always go with a 55mm koyo radiator (if you dont have one already)...my motor gets *****y here during summertime ESPECIALLY on the freeway...it all depends on yer cooling system

[bootman]

I don't have the shroud on I am running a electric fan I am thinking about getting the koyo or a 2row radiator from a mk2 they fit in the same place and the outlets are in the same place.

[s13sr20chris]

i have a stock radiator with a stock a/c(electrical) fan stuck in the stock clutch fan shroud. i use a nismo rad cap, 2/3 water, 1/3 coolant, and run higher than stock boost on the t25. i have a fmic from a conquest/starion. all that and i never overheat or even just get hot. it stay nice and cool.

[Morph]

I got Stock smic set up but the ****ing cold pipe kinda pinches the radatior hose and im in new orleans with 90+ degree days and mine never moves.

[Morph]

bootman where did you get that fmic???

[bootman]

I got it from top hat performance in GA

[bootman]

is there any way to hook up something wrong when you place the turbo

[Morph]

ya the guy the put my engine in kinda striped the top oil line bolt on the turbo. So sure but just check and awalys double check your work.

[unfrgivn]

r u using a fan shroud on yer clutch fan??? do you still have yer clutch fan???

if you get rid of yer clutch fan and replace them with dual electric fans youre killing ur cooling...put the clutch fan and shroud back on...they move the most air out of ANY fan thats able to be put on the S13

i also noticed you have a FMIC...do remember with that FMIC ur blocking ALOT of air going to the radiator

you can always go with a 55mm koyo radiator (if you dont have one already)...my motor gets *****y here during summertime ESPECIALLY on the freeway...it all depends on yer cooling system

FALSE. The stock fan only pushes about 1000 CFM, when the engine is running hard which means you have the most air flowing over the radiator anyways. A Permacool 14" Electric fan will push 3000CFM all the time. My cooling temperatures dropped when I removed the clutch fan and just hooked up the stock electric a/c fan so that it was always on.

I realize Bootman that you are in Hot-Lanta and Lennon you're in Vegas, but it still gets up in the 100s here in VA and I never once had cooling problems with stock ka radiator, stock a/c fan, even boosting around town at 14lbs all day. Now with my Koyo and Permacool, my temperatures are about as low can be.

[creophus]

What does it mean if you have water dripping from the water pump area? Does this mean new water pump or replace the liquid seal?

[bootman]

I drove the car hard as I could last nite got on the highway and did 100 for about 5min and the temp stayed low the whole time.I will drive it in the heat and see what happens.I just put a stock ECU in and the car will not go pass 5000rpm in 5th is the speed limiter?

Thanks

[Altiman94]

water from the seal is probably just the seal.. If it still pumps its still good. It either pumps or doesnt.

[stiergott]

hey bootman, you need to by heads up if your runnin them speeds near the peremeter, cops been goin ape shyt for the last week or so. they caught 250 somethin people in like 3hrs near 285/400. i live up 400 and go to school downtown and i cant spit without hittin a cop on my way home. as fer the coolin, if your floggin your car surface roads and the only time it over heats is on the hwy at speed, it might be some sort of negative pressure area caused by the intercooler or body work or somethin.

[s13sr20chris]

What does it mean if you have water dripping from the water pump area? Does this mean new water pump or replace the liquid seal?

new pump. dont listen too anyone tell you its ok. if its leaking now then it will start heating up soon. i replace water pumps all the time for that sort of thing. unless you just have leakage from the rtv that goes between the pump and cover. is it coming out of the bleed hole?

[s13sr20chris]

weep hole*

[msaskin]

FALSE. The stock fan only pushes about 1000 CFM, when the engine is running hard which means you have the most air flowing over the radiator anyways. A Permacool 14" Electric fan will push 3000CFM all the time. My cooling temperatures dropped when I removed the clutch fan and just hooked up the stock electric a/c fan so that it was always on.

I realize Bootman that you are in Hot-Lanta and Lennon you're in Vegas, but it still gets up in the 100s here in VA and I never once had cooling problems with stock ka radiator, stock a/c fan, even boosting around town at 14lbs all day. Now with my Koyo and Permacool, my temperatures are about as low can be.

Brad...sorry, but you're wrong

The stock clutch-fan is just about the most efficient thing out there, and no, it doesn't spin up with the engine. While you're under about 2500-3000 RPM, the fan spins in time with the engine, but as engine speeds increase from there, the hydraulics in the fan clutch keep the fan from spinning faster, basically keeping it spinning at the speed where it will most efficiently move air.

Read and learn:http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efanmyth.htm

Nothing can beat the stock clutch-fan and shroud, end of story.

My setup when all is done will be:greddy fmic, koyo rad, clutch fan, stock fan shroud, custom cooling panel, electric fan to take over the a/c fan duties (since i just put my a/c back in), and a rad cap depending on coolant mix.

I'll either be running a 50/50 coolant/water mix w/ some water wetter for good measure, or i'll just take the plunge and go with Evans NPG coolant and a zero pressure radiator cap.

~matt

[unfrgivn]

Brad...sorry, but you're wrong

The stock clutch-fan is just about the most efficient thing out there, and no, it doesn't spin up with the engine. While you're under about 2500-3000 RPM, the fan spins in time with the engine, but as engine speeds increase from there, the hydraulics in the fan clutch keep the fan from spinning faster, basically keeping it spinning at the speed where it will most efficiently move air.

Read and learn:http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efanmyth.htm

Nothing can beat the stock clutch-fan and shroud, end of story.

My setup when all is done will be:greddy fmic, koyo rad, clutch fan, stock fan shroud, custom cooling panel, electric fan to take over the a/c fan duties (since i just put my a/c back in), and a rad cap depending on coolant mix.

I'll either be running a 50/50 coolant/water mix w/ some water wetter for good measure, or i'll just take the plunge and go with Evans NPG coolant and a zero pressure radiator cap.

~matt

Sorry dude but the only specs sheet I've found on the stock clutch fan is that is pushes about 1000cfm. The shroud is the most important part because it disperses the air nicely across the radiator, but that has nothing to do with the fan. Show me numbers where the stock clutch fan is pushing anywhere near 3000cfm, then we'll talk. The electric fan although moving at the same speed the whole time whereas the stock fan only spins at low rpm still allows for a large enough pressure differential to pull sufficient air through the radiator. All I know is that my coolant temps dropped when I ditched the clutch fan and put the electric a/c fan on the stock radiator, and obviously dramtically dropped when I put my Koyo in with a permacool 14" e-fan. Don't make me pull out some physics equations and smack your ***, cause I hate physics... but I will.

*Read Below for More Technical Explanation*

[s13sr20chris]

i dont have too much faith in the clutch fan either. im glad someone is questioning the common wisdom. most of the time you dont even need a fan. i have a buddy that pulls his off for road racing. of course on the street you have to idle sometime. during those times you need some kind of fan. personally i prefer an elec because it only draws when nescessary. i also dont mind electrical load as much as direct crankshaft load as electrical load can be juggled around. please continue questioning the common wisdom set before us by the tuner shops(who sell parts).stock radiators are better than they let on too.did you know ducting can be optimized for at least a 30% gain in cooling capacity. thats at idle with fan on or at speed with fan off. i have some aluminum roof flashing that will go around my rad and intercooler soon.

[unfrgivn]

*GOOD INFORMATION BELOW*

Ok so I pulled out my physics book and did some research. You're half right Matt and half wrong. Now an electric fann will pull air through the radiator at the same speed regardless of what speed you are moving, say X mph. Now when you go faster than X mph then the fan does begin to create a wall and cannot physically move air as fast as the air is being forced through the radiator. The problem being when this happens is the air pressure between the radiator and the fan rises lowering the pressure differential. The clutch fan will freespin so that this is not a problem.

The problem with your argument is that even though the high pressure system between the e-fan and the radiator could in essence push far enough out that it was blocking the radiator and therefore not really cooling, it will not really happen. I don't feel like wasting my time plugging and chugging formulas right now (maybe later), but the air will be able to flow freely across the radiator at speed. Mind you an e-fan is not as efficient as a clutch fan at speed, but on the other hand an e-fan can pull 3 times as much cubic feet of air/minute (cfm) at idle and low crusing speeds (traffic).

There are obviously many situations where overheating occurs, but I know of a lot more cars that have had overheating problems on hot days, sitting on the freeway, which is where the e-fan shines as opposed to high speed highway driving.

In conclusion:

If you are having overheating problems at speed when boosting and pushing the engine hard then the best solution for you is a clutch fan with the shroud. (Mind you the fan is too far away from the radiator to be effective at all without the shroud).

If you are having overheating problems at idle or while moving in stop and go traffic then the best solution would be an electric fan.

There ya go, and like I said maybe I'll run some numbers if I can find all the right formulas/measurements later.

[creophus]

new pump. dont listen too anyone tell you its ok. if its leaking now then it will start heating up soon. i replace water pumps all the time for that sort of thing. unless you just have leakage from the rtv that goes between the pump and cover. is it coming out of the bleed hole?

I do not know from where it is coming...but there's a lot of it coming out when I fill the radiator.

[s13sr20chris]

i think the solution is one small electric fan with proper ducting. thats just me though.