Overheating....

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liteemup39496
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just keep in mind OE gauge really has 3 major temp points

on, off and too f'in late. same goes for oil pressure

so once you get your issue solved 40-60 dollars for a water temp gauge is well worth it.


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Romeo_rus
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I'd try to remove the thermostat and look what it gonna do...

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WDRacing
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Just something I was thinking about the other day. Have you or anyone else used radiator stop leak or something similar in this radiator or motor? If so, I'd suggest getting a flush kit and flushing rad/motor. Take a hose and let that dude run through the block for a while, hopefully dislodging any of the gunk that could be residing in it.

Stop leak totally gums up the passages of the rad and sticks to the inside of the motor and water pump. I had an issue on my RB20 because of this. The prior owner had poured what must have been 2 bottles of that crap just to fix a gasket leak and a smallish hole in the radiator.

I do NOT recommend using things like stop leak unless it's an actual emergency. Like being on the road and you develop a leak that needs immediate attention. When I pulled apart my RB water pump the entire inside was gunked up.

WD

240s_are_the_best
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biggie wrote:OEM thermo been purchased and put in yet?
no im 15.. no money.. and as of now no way to huntsville lol

240s_are_the_best
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biggie wrote:OEM thermo been purchased and put in yet?
no im 15.. no money.. and as of now no way to huntsville lol
Romeo_rus wrote:I'd try to remove the thermostat and look what it gonna do...
I took it out today and i cant get i to heat up past C lol. its circulating now, and when i took the thermostat housing loose alot of air came out so it had air arouond the thermostat and it wasnt fully opening up... i am going to take a bit an drill about 8 holes around it assit in removing the air and prop it open with asprin. lol
WDRacing wrote:Just something I was thinking about the other day. Have you or anyone else used radiator stop leak or something similar in this radiator or motor? If so, I'd suggest getting a flush kit and flushing rad/motor. Take a hose and let that dude run through the block for a while, hopefully dislodging any of the gunk that could be residing in it.

Stop leak totally gums up the passages of the rad and sticks to the inside of the motor and water pump. I had an issue on my RB20 because of this. The prior owner had poured what must have been 2 bottles of that crap just to fix a gasket leak and a smallish hole in the radiator.

I do NOT recommend using things like stop leak unless it's an actual emergency. Like being on the road and you develop a leak that needs immediate attention. When I pulled apart my RB water pump the entire inside was gunked up.

WD
No, I flushed it when i put the radiator in just to be safe.

240s_are_the_best
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okay... this is really starting to upset me... i done the asprin thing and it worked for all of the 30 min i let it idle and about 15-20 min driving and then boom up goes the gauge. i pulled over and checked the lower radiator hose to see if it stopped circulating and sure enough... ICE cold. I let it cool off for a little while and drove it to the diner we were going to and when i came back out i swapped radiator caps and tried it again... NOPE, Still heating up...So i drove it like 3 min to lowes and shopped in there for a little while and when i came out i drove it to walmart(right across the street) and stayed in there for about an hour. when i drove it home it started over heating and i pulled into a gas station to check the water level and the over flow was overflowing. so i said eff it and i decided at that point and time i was going to drive it home and it blew up it blew up.. i would rebuild it. but on the way home it heated up to a little less than 3/4 of the gauge sweep and then it would drop. it did this numerous times then when i pulled on my road it started going way up so i shut it off and coasted to the driveway. it is really pissing me off.. i could see it circulating in the radiator when the stat was propped open then the asprin dissolved and the stat closed so no circulation until it go to operating temp then i could see it circulating so i left the cap off and let it idle for 30 min. and put the cap on and let it cool down then rechecked the coolant level.and it was good. i wish someone on here was close enough to come drive it and tell me wtf is wrong with her!!
240s_are_the_best wrote:i am going to take a bit an drill about 8 holes around it assit in removing the air and prop it open with asprin. lol No, I flushed it when i put the radiator in just to be safe.
I didnt drill any holes in it and when i was bleeding it after i reinstalled the stat there was black stuff coming up in little mushy chunks..maybe a product that did not come out of the block or the radiator when i flushed it??

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eazye2000
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You should have really done the 8 holes method. That's what I did to mine and I've had no issues. At least you would have known it was your stat messing up.

And I really think it's your thermostat effin' up. If I had an extra one, I would mail it to you.

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Razi
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Yeah, at this point, it's either the water pump or the thermostat.

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thanks!! you guys are freaking awesome!! haha i amd going to go to advance and get a Stant Superstat 180degree thermostat tomorrow and use the asprin trick! who woulda thunk it haha. ASPRIN!! FTW!!!

240s_are_the_best
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Thanks for all yalls help!!! it was a bad thermostat! haha stupid cheap advance parts... well now that i know my head isnt cracked im going to pull the engine and do a full rebuild. wish me luck! im going .20 over and 9.5:1 compression and 7PSI


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