overheating!

[biggadubuti]

i am down here in Arizona, right now it is like 100 degrees everyday. I have to drive like20 minutes on the freeway to get home from school. i have to drive at like 3000RPMs with the heat blasting, and it still gets very hot. I have a Walbro pump, nismo fuel pressure regulator, I think its a Supra FMIC(Stock one), it sucks having to creep home and have all other cars passing you! Let me know if any common problems with the SR20DET, leads to this

[SRBURG13]

Same here, I over heat constantly. I think that my FMIC is restricting the air that gets to the radiator. Bigger rad maybe? Or repositioning the FMIC if its possible.

[Cyberkreig]

You can always check your thermo/get a nismo lower-temp thermo.

Slow airflow + High ambient temp is probably the cause tho. Bigger fans, upgraded radiator, pure water instead of water/antifreeze mix ?

[ImportIntelligence]

Get a KOYO Rad and FAL Dual fans made for the Integra. ( They fit the radiator perfect. My Sr goes back to C on the temp gauge if I leave my fans on.

[biggadubuti]

yah, i have a greddy radiator on the way, should be here later this week.

[MojoMan]

Ya'll aren't addressing the problem correctly. Your FMIC isn't probably the problem. Could be the radiator. fins could be stuffed with bugs and dirt. could need rodding out. Could need a new thermostate. could need coolant. could need a head gasket. cold need a water pump. Timing could be off. Could be runnin real lean. And running strait water is not a very good idea. Thats what keeps your boiling point down. You just dont want to much. Just go over everything one by one. You will figure it out. Give us more info about the problem. Such as temp at idle, noises-waterpump, coolant level, oil in water and vise verca. Is the thermostate opening at correct temp or even at all or partially.

[biggadubuti]

it has a brand new NIssan water pump. the coolant is full, the reservoir is at the full mark. no noises, i beleive that it is running lean, i am not sure why though. should have plenty of fuel for stock boost, with Walbro pump, and NIsmo pressure regulator. it does have a "aftermarket air filter and intake pipe goin to the turbo inlet. it is still the stock radiator, stock cap. It does perfectly fine at idle, or at lower ambient temps. Just during the day, for extended driving, it gets hot. I dont believe that there is any vacuum leaks, pulls 18 PSI of manifold vacuum. There is only three vacuum ports on the throttle body, lower one is Throttle body vacuum?, top two are manifold vacuum, ONe to Blow off Valve, one to Pressure regulator, and boost controller. Is there any more vacuum ports that i am missing?

[biggadubuti]

and timing is computer controlled to a certain point, Correct?

[MojoMan]

Well it just depends. What yr is yours? You changed the water pump but what about the thermostat. How long have you had the motor in and running. have you checked under the valve cover or checked the oil for water or water for oil? Have you checked your compression or done a leakdown test. You could have a bad head gasket. Assuming all sensors are working correctly to extent your ecu will retard timing. Like if your ecu detected knock it would back the timing off a bit. These are things you need to check that would only take a couple of hrs to run down if that much. Just drink a cold beer and stand there looking under the hood like I do to figure s*** out.

[the_invisible]

Wow, it is 100 degree and you ave to full blast the heat?

In temperature such as these, you don't need to run coolant. just run pure H2O + water wetter. Get a high pressure radiator cap.

[MojoMan]

In temperature such as these, you don't need to run coolant. just run pure H2O + water wetter. Get a high pressure radiator cap.

The point of adding coolant is because it keeps your freeze point real low and to raise your boiling point higher. Running strait water is not the best Idea.

[GraySilvia]

Maybe it's a stupid question, but how do you know it's overheating? Are you just going on the stock temperature gauge or do you have an aftermarket one. If you don't change your SR temp sending unit to the KA one, the stock gauge will pretty much always be on the H and it looks like you're overheating when you aren't.....

[biggadubuti]

well when i first star the car the gauge doesnt just slam to H, normalstreet driving, it is below half, all day long, its just on the freeway, when i am driving at a consant rate that it starts to creep towards high.

[biggadubuti]

it is a redtop, i am not sure what year it is, dont know where to look

[MojoMan]

Did you check all of the things we've been talking about? If you go through the list you will fing your answer.

[Drakon]

I dont know many people using the stock radiator setup on a SR. I really think you should get a new one whether or not thats ur problem cause especially in the temps ur talking about it cant possibly hurt. I think it would make ur stuff last longer. 100 degree heat. It gets in the 90's here and i'm gettin a new radiator so i can have more peace of mind

[S13240]

I'm using the stock ka24e radiator for the past 2 yrs on my sr swap in 100+ degree weather in the Desert Area in and around Palm Springs and has had no problems with heating problems...only except when my fans don't turn on. Using stock dual e-fan setup from older sentra. Just bought a Koyo radiator last week just for the heck of it.

[180fan]

If you're overheating, common problems for Nissans is that most people forget to burp their coolant systems. Try that before you go out to buy a bunch of new cooling devices. Burping btw is shaking the front of your car, squeezing your upper rad hose and then cooling your car down, adding more coolant, etc. If you want to increase the heat capacity of the water you're using, use distilled water and if you're willing to change coolant every year, try adding the redline coolant additive. Personally the distilled water runs just fine on mine but then again I do live in California.