overheating :mad:

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
mrstrong
Posts: 8
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 5:51 pm
Car: 89 240sx rb25det

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So I was driving today for about an hour when all of a sudden my collant gauge (the stock one in the cluster) is like one bar below the H, so I turn the heat on and pop my hood and coast down the street pul over shut it down. why? second time this has happened in the last week?


Joe
Posts: 6511
Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:29 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

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comeon now, its basic troubleshooting

check your coolant level, bleed the system, check for leaks.

mrstrong
Posts: 8
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 5:51 pm
Car: 89 240sx rb25det

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Thanks Tips Not trying to be a d!ck but I mean come on

Just researching the net and found this on racebread.com The z32 works search for details. I know when I cranked mine i noticed the thermo wasn't opening and it took awhile but there ended up being alot of air in the thermo housing behind the thermo stat, the best way to remove it is to open the little hose that runs from the back of the housing to the intake flange and squeeze the lower hose then we slowly poor water down that line to fill the void. or atleast that was the only thing that did it for me.

Could be the problem it seemed on my way home in traffic I noticed it getting a little warmer than usaul then I hit a bump and the thermo seemed to open up maybe cause my temp droped down to the middle

Gonna try this suggestion

Joe
Posts: 6511
Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:29 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

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dude all you said is "my car is overheating, why?"

what kind of response do you expect?

odds of you having trapped air behind the tstat are slim to none as its not a fresh swap and it doesnt happen all the time. bleed your coolant, make sure you turn the heater on full blast when you are running the engine.

mrstrong
Posts: 8
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 5:51 pm
Car: 89 240sx rb25det

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its not a fresh swap but it has been sitting for 1.5 years approx? They just cleaned the roads here so I have only had it out a few times

Thanks

Also thinking of a rad flush

User avatar
300Plus
Posts: 700
Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 S14 w/ Rb25det Series II

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mrstrong wrote:Thanks Tips Not trying to be a d!ck but I mean come on

Just researching the net and found this on racebread.com The z32 works search for details. I know when I cranked mine i noticed the thermo wasn't opening and it took awhile but there ended up being alot of air in the thermo housing behind the thermo stat, the best way to remove it is to open the little hose that runs from the back of the housing to the intake flange and squeeze the lower hose then we slowly poor water down that line to fill the void. or atleast that was the only thing that did it for me.
Exactly what you should do ^^^^ everytime you drain the system, or the air behind the thermo will cause it to not open

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Coolwhip
Vendor
Posts: 3138
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2004 7:29 am
Car: RB26 Raw Brokerage War Machine
Location: Orlando, FL
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bleed the system as everyone has said. If still having problems check to see if your radiator is getting plugged (for being old or contaminated or whatever). Ducting?

Or possibably stubburn thermostat, replace.

Justin Duncklee
Posts: 304
Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2007 9:30 am

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Do you have a water temp gauge?

When I had my stock Ecu the 240 gauge cluster always read hot, but my water temp was actually fine. Now that I have the power FC in it reads normally, also during the hotter weather, the car might run a bit warmer. On the rb25's, 2 degree's celcius changed the temp gauge from normal to *freakin hot*

My car runs 81 degrees celcius in the winter, right now depending on how hott the day is it runs btween 84 and 90 degrees celcius.

What kind of coolant are you using? radiator? fans? Are you runing a thermo?


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