Overheating, already searched.

[leprecaun96]

After repalcing a turbo to exhaust mani gasket, and reconnecting everything, the car is overheating. There is a tiny leak of coolant at the block banjo point. ive tried to bleed the system but at the air relief point its just a constant steam fest. The rad is full and cold The reservoir is full and boiling.

But does anyone know if the leak will cause it to overheat? or am i just not bleeding it right?Any help would be great....!

[grenade180sx]

so basically it could be two things.

your therostat isnt opening and since you have a leak any water that is in the block is coming out and causing any remaining water to get so hot ts steams

FIX YOUR DAMN LEAK!

then start over and be patient with the bleeding. start your car turn ur heater on full blast and drive around ur block a few times then pop ur rad cap and start the bleeding process.. remeber air gets trapped anywhere so squeeze your hoses and shake your car(believe me!)

[leprecaun96]

Yeah, Will do the leak asap Do u recommend draining the system and filling from scratch? or just dump in some new stuff?

[duffman1278]

Just leave, shouldn't really matter. And if you want to do it the old fashion way, sorta, just jack up the car REAL high from the front and have the car running, then open up the radiator cap from up top. Wait until all the bubbles are gone, and its smooth flowing.

[leprecaun96]

Thing is, i opened the rad cap when its running and its full, no bubbles, nothing.

[skateboardstan]

buy a nismo thermostat, it opens cooler and you'll know that thats not the problem. I love mine.

[wzntha]

.

[leprecaun96]

Was reading how to change coolant in the fsm... all there sort of saying is dance in a circle with your left shoe on ur head while singing kumbaya.

[vocationalzero]

Was reading how to change coolant in the fsm... all there sort of saying is dance in a circle with your left shoe on ur head while singing kumbaya.

and that's why shops/dealerships charge $130+ for a coolant flush

[supreamS14]

It takes a while. There is also a bleeder screw on the upper coolent neck/rad. hose next to the dip stick

[Morgs]

Just leave, shouldn't really matter. And if you want to do it the old fashion way, sorta, just jack up the car REAL high from the front and have the car running, then open up the radiator cap from up top. Wait until all the bubbles are gone, and its smooth flowing.

+1 for this way, i have done it several times, never a problem always worked, u gotta be patient though it takes a while but it does the job right

[leprecaun96]

Are there 2 air bleed points? i found the one next to the cas but the manual is talking about an air bleeder cap too...?Any ideas?

[Hijacker]

There's only the one on the water neck AFAIK

The procedure I use is this1- turn your heater to full hot. If you close it off, your heater core will trap air in it and you'll never be rid of the air pockets2-remove the bleed screw on the upper water neck3-fill the radiator until water starts to come out of the bleeder screw4-install bleeder screw5-continue filling until the radiator is full6-start the car7-Wait for the car to reach operating temperature. At this point, the thermostat should open and the water level in the radiator should go down slightly.8-top off the radiator

I have used that procedure on the umpteen billion radiator fills I have done over the years on S-chassis cars.

As far as your coolant leak is concerned, make sure that you installed both copper washers. Since I assume you have an S14 SR (being a UK S14 car), you should have the copper washers that are connected on both sides of the banjo bolt. If you do, I'd suggest replacing them as they've probably been crushed past being useful. Other possibilities, though, could be dirt on the washers (and I mean a big piece), or the banjo bolt isn't as tight as it should be. However, copper washers are cheap.

[leprecaun96]

Seems to be the way to go, filling from the rad.I got new copper washers today so will have a go at the lot tomoro. Apparently the washers need to be heat treated before fitting, ie heat and let cool then drive them homeheres hoping i dont strip the notoriously soft threads on the block refitting them..

[codyace]

There's only the one on the water neck AFAIK

The procedure I use is this1- turn your heater to full hot. If you close it off, your heater core will trap air in it and you'll never be rid of the air pockets2-remove the bleed screw on the upper water neck3-fill the radiator until water starts to come out of the bleeder screw4-install bleeder screw5-continue filling until the radiator is full6-start the car7-Wait for the car to reach operating temperature. At this point, the thermostat should open and the water level in the radiator should go down slightly.8-top off the radiator

I have used that procedure on the umpteen billion radiator fills I have done over the years on S-chassis cars.

I've oftened wonder how people have such issues bleeding the coolant system hehe.

On another note for the o/p: How do you know the car is overheating? Do you have an aftermarket gauge? I wouldn't trust the OEM as far as I could throw it.

And PS: Nismo 160 Thermo is a waste of time. Way to cold for a street car.

[leprecaun96]

On another note for the o/p: How do you know the car is overheating? Do you have an aftermarket gauge? I wouldn't trust the OEM as far as I could throw it.

Unfortunetly its not an indication problem. I do have an aftermarket gauge, and when i pop the bonnet the smell and water boiling in the reseroir make the red light hard to ignore.Im not convinced its the thermostat at all, i mean it was perfect before i took the turbo off.

[leprecaun96]

Changed the banjo washers.No leaks, so far....Bled the system by filling the rad and all went well.Thanks for all the input!