Overheating...a little different!

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Temporary
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 4:58 pm

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Sorry to ask this again, but i searched and didn't find anything that was exact. I have tried A LOT of the methods in many of the replies, but none have worked!

Pretty much EVERYTHING has been replaced: Water pump, fan clutch, upper and lower hoses, Radiator, thermostat. Now the car WAS overheating at idle, but once i replaced the fan clutch, that fixed that. Now i believe i have an air bubble in the system. Been trying to bleed it. What is the best way of doing this. I keep topping off the Radiator, but after a drive, and it overheating, i noticed that the resevoir tank is over flowing. It was only at Max. So no matter how much i add, it's like the system just throws it in there. Any ideas??? Thanks for the help!

BTW I have a 1995 240sx SE!


Und3rprshUr
Posts: 570
Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 5:53 am
Car: My 300Z

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to bleed the air try running the car with cap of at idle till it reaches temperature and or water start over flowing. this can do it some times. other itmes you need to find the bleed screw for the coolant ( if your car has one) and make sure your parked level as the air bleed must be higher than the radiator cap.

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JT_MONEY_2004
Posts: 409
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 12:14 pm
Car: 1990 Q45, Pearl

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Head gasket? I had a similar problem?

Und3rprshUr
Posts: 570
Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 5:53 am
Car: My 300Z

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JT_MONEY_2004 wrote:Head gasket? I had a similar problem?


That was my first thought till he stated this :

"Now the car WAS overheating at idle, but once i replaced the fan clutch, that fixed that"

navysnail
Posts: 3335
Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2004 1:33 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX fastback

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hmmm, so it keeps pushing the coolant back out, i would say that its a bad pressure cap, and that is one thing that you havent replaced yet

they are fairly cheap, and if you want, you could get it tested, it should open between 11-14psi, if it opens at a lower pressure, its bad

Temporary
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 4:58 pm

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OK, now the other day my aftermarket fan flutch slpit itself open, and i replaced it. The car still over heats at idle, and when i take the RPMs to 4000 it'll cool back down. I know i've heard of problems with aftermarket thermostats, but does anyone know of problems with aftermarket fan clutches or waterpumps. Cuase i think one of those are malfunctioning.

I thought about the Head gasket, but what are some more signs of the head gasket blowing???

Also what would cause my radiator resevoir to completley overflow??

Und3rprshUr
Posts: 570
Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 5:53 am
Car: My 300Z

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Temporary wrote:OK, now the other day my aftermarket fan flutch slpit itself open, and i replaced it. The car still over heats at idle, and when i take the RPMs to 4000 it'll cool back down. I know i've heard of problems with aftermarket thermostats, but does anyone know of problems with aftermarket fan clutches or waterpumps. Cuase i think one of those are malfunctioning.

I thought about the Head gasket, but what are some more signs of the head gasket blowing???

Also what would cause my radiator resevoir to completley overflow??


Quote »The car still over heats at idle, and when i take the RPMs to 4000 it'll cool back down[/quote]

This is because your moving the water with the pump at a faster rate. which means your pump is fine.

i doubt its head gasket or it would always overheat never coolign down.

radiator resivor will completely over flow if your cap is bad.

go buy a new cap 5 $ and it cancells out that possibility.

navysnail
Posts: 3335
Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2004 1:33 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX fastback

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the bad cap can also cause it to overheat by lowering the pressure, and therefore the boiling point of the coolant

now, it does not overheat when driving, correct?

how hot is it getting?

and if you havent allready, bleed the system with the bleed plug, located on the intake manifold infront of the fuel injectors, unscrew it, pour coolant into the radiator, and when it overflows from the bleed plug hole, then screw the plug back in, top it off, and you should be good

psychic_mechanic
Posts: 296
Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2004 6:45 am
Car: the world's ugliest civic

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Random ideas to all cars, may not apply to 240's:

Fan shrouds/airflow through rad, not aroundare fans working together or fighting each other?clogged cooling passages in head/blockverify gauge is accurateradiator capset timing to stock, just to checkchemical flush cooling systemwater wetterrunning lean?

Temporary
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 4:58 pm

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I replaced the cap last night. It still overheats. The only time it pushes coolant back to my radiator is when it over heats, aslong as it runs normal, no overflow. It gets hot when i am driving or sitting. And if i let it, it will go WAY past the "H" on the gauge. When i bring the RPMs to 4000 it cools down really quick.

On a side note: If it still is the Fan Clutch, do you guys think taking out the clutch fan, and adding another electric fan would be a good idea. Like gett a dual electric out of a Altima or something???

Thanks for your guys' input!

Und3rprshUr
Posts: 570
Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 5:53 am
Car: My 300Z

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take olf fan clutch and weld the spring solid on front. re install.. see if problem is fixed.. if so you have a bad fan.

Temporary
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 4:58 pm

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Ok, the seal on my water pump busted again, so i'll let you know how things are goin after i re-seal it. Any tips for sealing it better??

navysnail
Posts: 3335
Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2004 1:33 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX fastback

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let the rtv sit for 24 hours before you use it

try completely removing the thermostadt and see if it starts overheating again, you may have gotten a bad thermostadt


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