Overheating!! 240sx KA24DE

Website · Post by **Maverick7687** » Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:57 pm

Ok, This is really starting to piss me off.. I have a 1993 240sx and I just changed the antifreeze...and when I was on my way home the car started to heat way up, I let it cool down and came home.. Long story short, I think it may be the thermostat..When it overheats the top radiator hose it hot enough to make blisters on skin, yet the bottom rad. hose is just a little warm...does this mean it is the thermostat?? IF so SOMEONE PLEASE GIVE ME TIPS ON HOW TO CHANGE IT.. I cannot get to the bottom bolt that holds the housing on...I think the houseing I am tryin to take off is the right one, its on the left side if you are looking at the motor from the front right above but to the left of the..I think it is the water pump..but someone please help me with this.. this is the only car I have.....Mav.

Website · Post by **Maverick7687** » Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:57 pm

bump..have to get this done tomorrow guys..plz help a fellow 240 owner!!

Post by **racer52** » Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:57 pm

i'm having the same problem wih my 95 240. im having checked out. i think that it is either the water pump or eles its the thermosat. i'll post again when i have it figerd out.

Website · Post by **Maverick7687** » Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:57 pm

cool...thanks..i think i am gonna go just spend the 12 bucks and change my thermostat tomorrow and hope that fixes it....Mav

Website · Post by **jab11185** » Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:57 pm

air in the lines? that's what happened with mine...i had to massage the rad lines

Website · Post by **Maverick7687** » Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:57 pm

how do you get air out...take out the bleeder screw..then what...just mess with the hoses??

Post by **DjPants** » Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:57 pm

dang, i replied to this twice, and i know you replied back, but now they are gone. I hope you got my information, if not go to the Nissan Online Mechanic section. NISTECH is clearly the man, or search around for previous overheating threads.

Post by **MikeYeeS13** » Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:57 pm

Get the air out. Take out the small bleeder bolt and let it idle until no more air comes out and it's just mostly coolant. The Water Pump and Thermostat are not hard to change. Make sure your Overflow is full! It may suck coolant out of it and maybe air if it gets low.

Post by **KFL** » Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:57 pm

Maverick7687 wrote:how do you get air out...take out the bleeder screw..then what...just mess with the hoses??

You can also just leave the radiator cap off(cold start) start the car and watch for air bubbles to come up, push down on the front end/rock it up and down a bit. Also top it off with antifreeze depending on the mix (50/50 etc.)added in to be on safe side.

Post by **brite** » Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:57 pm

I had the exact same problem on Aug 13th (Friday 13th) and could only drive for about 1 mile then had to pull over and let the engine cool down but after about 6 times it cleared its self, Hmmm

Next day I drained the anti freeze and pulled the thermostat out, **remove the fan with the clutch drive by removing the four bolts and let it lay at the bottom of the front area***Remove 3 bolts holding the housing off and yes 1 is a little hard to get at but its possible. Remove the radiator hose and pull off the thrmo stat cover. Now you can see the thermostat, pull it off.Now clean both faces.. cover and engine face... really clean as you don't want a leak. Use high temp gasket eliminator or a new cover gasket, install the new thermostat. Should be 76.5C opening with fail safe valve in it. That's a wee hole with a sort of pin through it so that if your thermostat sticks completely closed you will still get a little flow so that you don't blow a hose.

Put fan back on and top off anti freeze through the radiator, and fill up the plastic reserv tank, remove the air bleed valve, its a bolt on top of the Top radiator hose housing. Pump the radiator hoses, when you get coolant out of the air bleed put the bolt back in, it has a copper washer so make sure thats on the bottom.That solved my problem and when I checked the old thermostat it opened at 83C but was not consistant so I think it was sticking.

Cheers,

Post by **xekushnr** » Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:57 pm

when you first start your car, if it has been sitting, the engine is cold and it is running in a closed loop. the thermostat is closed at low temperatures, meaning there is no flow to the radiator. this helps to warm up the engine by also warming up the coolant. once the coolant temp reaches the opening temp for your thermostat, the thermostat opens, and coolant starts to flow to the radiator to cool it down. if your upper radiator pipe is hot, then your thermostat should be fine, because it is allowing flow.

check for air in your hoses like the others said. if you do decide to investigate the thermostat, put it in a pot of water and set it to boil. you should be able to see your thermostat open in the pot before the water starts boiling. if it doesnt, its stuck and you need to buy a new one.

Post by **klattr1** » Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:57 pm

well, your thermostat is obviously closing then. anytime you flush the coolant system you have to bleed the air out of it.I just leave my car sitting, open the radiator cap (when its not boiling or overheating in the first place), then i open the bleeder screw as far as possible without it coming out of the hole. Then I pour coolant into the radiator and squeeze the radiator hoses to force the air out. It can take 15 min sometimes. just depends. just keep a handy 10mm wrench and coolant with you all the time so you can finally get it out.Now if air bubbles keep forming later on even after you got them out, then you have another issue (leaky headgasket or something similar).

Overheating!! 240sx KA24DE

Overheating!! 240sx KA24DE

having the same problem

hey

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