Over tightened Clutch Pedal?

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Clatch
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Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2004 6:38 am

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The Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX FB SE ManualSo I had my Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave Replaced only to find out a how to do it in Chilton's later :/. Anyway after it was replaced I was driving down the road and the 240 just revved up almost to redlined while it was moving, like if I had pushed in the clutch and revved while going about 30, but I hadn't put in the clutch. After that it wouldn't let me go over 30mph under moderate acceleration without free revving. After I got home I smelled the nasty smell of a clutch burnt. Now I had this problem before and the way the mechanic fixed it was to tighten or loosen some bolt on the back of the clutch pedal. How do I do this, what bolt is it, which way do I turn it, and how much? Here are some pictures I took of the back of the clutch pedal so you can point it out to me, err they will be up in a few minutes.

EDIT: Hmm, photos are being a pain right now, I will try to get them up later, but right now I think its the gold nut and thread, I'm not sure.

EDIT: Here they Are! If you need higher qualitly pics, or different locations of the pedal, I will readjust the camera and try it agian, its not exactly easy to take these pics.

Modified by Clatch at 1:16 AM 1/20/2005
Modified by Clatch at 1:51 AM 1/20/2005


bangstanger
Posts: 78
Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 4:23 pm
Car: 91 240SX Hatch

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if you are looking to adjust your clutch then you are looking at the wrong nut. I cannot say if that will fix the problem or not..but look at your first pic...where you have it circled go up a little and further back towards the firewall... you can see the cable coming through the firewall... it connects to a "bracket" at the top of the pedal .. there is a nut inside there that connects the cable to the pedal...that is what you will have to adjust. Its my belief that you will want to loosen that up a little bit.. if it is acting like the clutch is pushed in.. then the cable is too tight...I hope this helps as I am not a professional nissan guy.. just a brake and muff tech...but thast where I would start.

ralphdig
Posts: 467
Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2003 4:48 pm
Car: S13 240SX SE - FiatSchumacher- Peugeot 307XR- Renault Alpine A110

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They are no clutch cables on the 240s they have a clutch rod that conects to master Cylinder

bangstanger
Posts: 78
Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 4:23 pm
Car: 91 240SX Hatch

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so I mistakenly said cable...I appologize...it is the same thing though....in the same location....but yes.. in the pic it is a "ROD" thanks for the clarification.

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Clatch
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Ok, I think I found it, take a look at these pictures, is it the silver nut on the gold thread? Also, how much should I adjust it, half a turn, a whole turn, two whole turns?



EDIT: That must not be it because that thing would not budge for anything, and how am even supoosed to reach it, I about died trying to clamp it enough to turn it.
Modified by Clatch at 7:02 AM 1/20/2005

bangstanger
Posts: 78
Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 4:23 pm
Car: 91 240SX Hatch

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Yes that is it. From looking at the pic and from what you describe...you need to "tighten" the silver nut in order to get it to move away from the bracket, and the rod itself should spin into the bracket... If I can explain this right for ya...the rod is pressed into the clutch master when you press the pedal in .. if it is acting like the clutch is pressed in, then there must be too much preload on the rod and that means it is "too far in" already. If you tighten the silver nut...clockwise... then it should pull away from the bracket and move in towards the firewall...allowing you to spin the rod counter-clockwise to put more of the rod inside that bracket...then "loosen" the nut so that it locks against the bracket. Again I am not a clutch man, so I may be missing something, but that seems like a fairly straight forward mechanical situation. And those I can handle..lol..

I hope this has helped ya a little..and good luck.

Carl

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Clatch
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This helped me allot, it helped me so much it worked! Thanks man, I owe you for being the only one that would tell me how to do it. I go the car back to running condition and that is exactly how you do it. I wish Chilton's would have just told me what you did. So now the pedal feels obviously looser and I've began fine-tuning for it to be back stiffer. How long should I wait before I stiffen it back up, a day? I ask this because the pedal was stiff before and drove normal and then just cutout on me and free revved while I was driving. So should I tighten it a little wait a day make sure its not going to cutout, then tighten it a little more the next day and so on until it cutouts and then loosen it a little? Or, should I fine-tune it in one session?

bangstanger
Posts: 78
Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 4:23 pm
Car: 91 240SX Hatch

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On that note I am not sure...What I have done in the past is adjust the pedal to where it runs ...obviously...and then try to get it to a point where the resistance I feel as I driving seems right...not too soft ..but not 1/2 inch and its engaged...hopefully someone else can give ya some input for this... but I would say if you keep it in range where it works and you are comfortable with the feel then you should be good.

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NinjaTanuki
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 10:28 pm
Car: 1992 S13 Hatch
Location: Virginia Beach

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How high does the car need to be to be able to adjust the petal? I'm running into exactly the same problem.

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NinjaTanuki
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 10:28 pm
Car: 1992 S13 Hatch
Location: Virginia Beach

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nevermind, im stupid, its inside the car, found it, however, when i losten the silver nut it just spins down the rod, how do i get the rod to come up into the bracket???

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NinjaTanuki
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Car: 1992 S13 Hatch
Location: Virginia Beach

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YAY

I figured it out

It worked!

<3 <3 <3 <3 <3

I LOVE YOU ALL!!!


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