Over fueling.. AGAIN

[480sx]

Ka-T, fresh rebuild, new valve seals/rings/bearings + hard break in. Less than 3 miles on the motor Enthalpy ECU SAFC-2 Zeitronix WBO2, new sensor 550 SARD injectors, just been serviced by D-Werks and flow within 1 CC of each other New NISMO FPR 255 fuel pump

Im so pissed at this project at this point.

3 days ago, my car was running great, reving all the way out, no loss of power or stumbling, boosting at 3-5 psi while i break the motor in, everything was well. I lost oil pressure because my relief valve stuck open, and tore the valve cover, front timing covers, and the oil pan off with the engine in the car. Fixed the oil pump(replaced, shimmed), and put new bearings in the motor because the loss of oil pressure was caught to late, and it ate the bearings up a bit(cranks still good). I didnt touch ANYTHING else other than the timing covers and the oil pan.

Put everything back together, cranked it up, had oil pressure, great. Noticed that upon startup the car blew some oil smoke. Not much, but enough to... Piss me off tremendously. So im letting the car warm up, and i notice a idle problem. Still had OP, but i cut the engine off to check some things. Made sure the crank spun freely. Checked the plugs, they were black as night. Walked around the car, saw that my car was spitting fuel(or oil maybe?) out of the exhaust. Hooked up my wideband, and started the car. The AFRs start at 15, then slowly but steadily over about 2 min the get into and below the 10's.

Messed with the SAFC just for the hell of it, even at -50 correction my car is idling at 10-11 AFRs. My fuel rail is not leaking, not losing any fuel pressure at all when the pump is off. Without the MAF plugged in i cant even rev the engine at all.

[Florida240sx]

Well with maf unplugged I could only rev mine a few rpms before stumble with 555cc injectors. enthalpy tune. Have you removed your wideband and cleaned it? I always cleaned mine by a few hard runs . But for what you are saying sounds like a leaking injector. But you said fuel rail isn't leaking when pressurized so my only guess is wideband is wrong uncalibrated etc. How does the car feel?

[neverlift]

florida you missed something man, he said it was spitting raw fuel from his exhaust.....

I know this will sound dumb but uh, how old is your coolant temp sensor? does your rom tune still support narrow band?(are you using a stock style o2 or the narrow band feed from your wbo/2?)

and for the fluid exiting the exhaust make sure its not condensation, hell drop the cat back portion and check if its fuel/oil/water with you hand

[WI_240sx]

well if you have a white/ slight bluish color smoke comming out of the exhaust at all, i would HIGHLY suggest inspecting your injectors.. injectors come with 2 O-rings in them.. if you do not lube them and insert them carefully, the O-rings will rip and tear... when this happens the bad injector will DUMP large quantites of fuel into the car making it get like 5-10 mpg.. best way to find out which injector is bad is to remove sparkplug wires till the one that doesnt effect idle is the cylinder that is not combusting..

when injectors are installed, make sure that when you are tightening the bracket that you tighten each screw only a couple of times each side, kinda like what you do when you tourque a wheel or valve cover down... this will prevent the O-rings from breaking..

[480sx]

When i unplugged the maf on all my other nissan engines the car would always idle fine, good afrs, it just wouldnt let me rev past 2500 and it would stumble a bit. When i pull the maf off of this thing, it wont rev past idle.

Im not even driving the car at this point, its going to run like strait ***. Its blowing out fuel out of the exhaust for sure, and running in the 10 AFR range. Even when i rev it, 10 afrs. When i go from revs to 0 TPS it leans out like its supposed to, then drops right back down into the 10's.

My CLT sensor checked out to be within FSM spec.

My WBO2 sensor literally is brand new, and reads 21 AFR at free air, 15 when i first start it up, ect ect, so im pretty sure my WBO2 sensor/unit is fine. My ECU is still running with a stock narrowband sensor in the normal spot.

It does reek like a leaky injector or a fuel rail leak, however i just got them all serviced by D-Werks. My injectors were installed with lube, and if my rail was leaking i would be losing fuel pressure but im not. I can leave it overnight, come out, and i still have 30-35 or so PSI in the system.

I also had the car running, and started pulling injector plugs. After i pulled each plug, the car responded as i expected. It would start to idle like it was missing a cyl, and my AFR's would lean out into the low 11's. Exactly the same results across all 4 cyls.

[WI_240sx]

hmm.. im assuming the engine was tested for compression?

[neverlift]

run your codes?

might be your maf, I was having a slight rich condition the other day, second ground on my z maf came unsoldered, again

[480sx]

ECU is telling me that its fried. LED inside the ECU is on when i turn the key to ON position in run mode. Checked to make sure my CAS was good, swapped it out with a working unit and i got the same thing. The ECU isnt throwing any trouble codes.

So im looking for a code 28 ECU now, again. I guess its possible that the ecu i bought was bad, although it really doesnt make any sense that it was running great 3 days ago and i havnt touched anything electrical since then. The battery has been unplugged from the ECU the whole time it was sitting, so, idk.

FVKING GARAGE GREMLINS AT IT AGAIN.

[neverlift]

at least they dont get at you dizzy wiring or at the damn dizzy bolt, and then you boost you car and it blows try another ecu, if this isnt an s14(or auto) any ecu should cut it

[WI_240sx]

lol... its the only thing i really dislike about any KA is that there are 40 reasons the fuel can be rich.. back to the trouble tree..

[neverlift]

rich = safe, from a factory p.o.v.

I personally run cruise afr's that would make everyone on this forum scared, I do run a tad of water with it these days.

[480sx]

So, i cleared a code 11(CAS sensor), and now the ECU isnt throwing any codes, and i let it sit for an hour with the batt unplugged and i get the same horrible AFR's. I decided to try another one of my s14 OBD1 ecu's(I have a s14 harness with a s13 conversion plug) and the car ran fine, stable afr's, ect with SAFC adjustment.

It seems that i still have a blown ECU, somehow.. Really doesnt make any sense at all. Im gona leave the ECU unplugged, and out of the car overnight and see what happens in the morning but its prly still gona be toasted.

[esahuque]

open up your ecu and make sure that Enthalpy's chip is seated property. my car ran like s**t when i first installed my ecu. Scott at Enthalpy told me to open the ecu and make sure that the chip didn't come loose during shipping.

[480sx]

Cool i actually meant to do that but i forgot to try it. Its possible, however unlikely that that might be the issue ima try it now.

I have the car running with SAFC now.. Its just for the breakin period.. SAFC can handle 5 psi.

[coolbone28]

well just in case it's of any importance, i had an enthalpy tune with the conversion harness (i have an s14 and i used an s13 ECU) and my harness actually went bad and would randomly throw out codes for my mafs and ignition system. It was isolated to the harness only, cause the car would run normal and the slightest touch would send the car into limp mode. So double check your harness.