OutToWinPAHC's LS6/T56 s13.5 (no longer my car)

[OutToWinPAHC]

Are those BC Type BR Coilovers!?! How do you like them, how do they sit, how do they feel?

I like the look, I like the quality of the feel, i hate the stiffness. I am going to adjust them some and then see. The are set pretty stiff right now.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Back from the body shop, but it needs to go back for cut and buffing. But there is also a spot on the hood that needs to be messaged and resprayed.

Also installed the bride fg seat rail.

[kevinphan]

A lot of things on that bike look horrid. Do you mind me asking how much you paid for it.

Horrid how so? All new quality parts, old school style. Paid pennies on the dollar, rather not say just for when I get bored and sell.

If it were my bike

New tank, either a scalloped or skinny peanut tank frisco mounted
Remove those chop shox s*** and put normal springs or run a king/queen seat
That front end should be raked because the springer looks to seat the bike upwards
Small tires, bars, grips and headlight

Definitely A+ for effort, but you don't buy premade chops in my opinion. You build them.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Your on page 7 of my 3 - 4 year build, a house, and work keep hard. There is no time to do much, let alone build a bike. I paid nothing for it, the primary and springer front cost more then what I got the entire thing for. Ape hangers are gonna go other then that it stays the way it is, its not a project. It's just a cheap pick up, and old school style.

[kevinphan]

Not really anything old school on that bike.

[Lonismos14]

Hey OTWP let me point out some negatives.

Naw but seriously this thing looks real nice. I have been waiting for you to finish this thing for a while now.

Hey whats up with the video request i asked for? You got to please your fans.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Not really anything old school on that bike.

Except the kick start, and the open drive transmission, the hard tail, and springer front..... Yeah I would say they are all cutting edge new school technologies there. If you don't like my choice fine, I think its a bad a** pick up. Now please drop my motorcycle subject, if you want to throw more pointers PM me.

[Chaotic_Warlord]

Kev, are you coming to NICOFest @ Carlisle this year (May 8th)? Even if your not I'm taking the Learned'd crew and Greg and Becky to Tony Lukes once Greg and Becky get into town before they roll out to Carlisle, you're more than welcome to come and break bread with us. I'll probably roll up with them, if not then I'm definitely going up Saturday. The learned'd crew will probably get into town around 1 or 2 Friday afternoon so I'm taking them to see the Rocky Statue and maybe up to see Nick @ Elite JDM and Greg and Becky are supposed to land at PHL around 4:30 so we'll probably be hitting up Tony Lukes around 530 Friday night.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Phan... let this be your warning, when I say cut it you cut it of you don't come back.

[OutToWinPAHC]

I got a hotel room with the rest of staff out there Beandon, yeah let me know. I guess they are flying onto Philly, let me know I got a minivan son lol

[Chaotic_Warlord]

I'll keep you posted as I know everything, but yeah Greg, Becky and ADDIrishboy are flying into Philly and the Learned'd crew are driving themselves to Philly b/c they want to see the Rocky statue and get cheese steaks. I have been told that I'm staying with the Learned'd crew and that it was a non issue, so I guess I'll be staying up there @ NICO HQ.

[zeause]

How low can those coilovers go? Nice build btw. Nice bike to. What kind of handlebars you going to? drag bars would be pretty cool

[OutToWinPAHC]

Coils can go about 3 inches lower in the rear and about 2.5 in the front.
Anyhow some night and dusty shots.

[Chaotic_Warlord]

Are you bringing this Carlisle or are you rolling up in the minivan?

[OutToWinPAHC]

An F-150, a trailer with this and maybe my harley on the back

[Chaotic_Warlord]

You have a truck now?

[mattblancarte]

Didn't notice that you had decided on an Accusump purchase. They're great not only for when your pressure drops, but you'll get to pre-oil every time you start. I cold-start my engine with a hearty 40psi oil pressure every time.

I don't bother starting warm with the accusump going... makes it a pain to re-fill because the oil isn't cold and pressures don't get high enough unless you rev it out. It's all lubed up anyways in that scenario.

Where do you plan on mounting that puppy? It's huge lol.

P.S. Your car is looking pretty sechsy.

[zeause]

How bout one of them new harley davidson f-150s.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Didn't notice that you had decided on an Accusump purchase. They're great not only for when your pressure drops, but you'll get to pre-oil every time you start. I cold-start my engine with a hearty 40psi oil pressure every time.

I don't bother starting warm with the accusump going... makes it a pain to re-fill because the oil isn't cold and pressures don't get high enough unless you rev it out. It's all lubed up anyways in that scenario.

Where do you plan on mounting that puppy? It's huge lol.

P.S. Your car is looking pretty sechsy.

Not sure, thinking of welding a beefy plate to the tension rod brackets and putting it there, or right on the front of the radiator support. I am using a manual cable operated valve.

[OutToWinPAHC]

You have a truck now?

Nope borrowing it from a friend.

[dat925stunna]

Got a ebrake on the way, also ordered Bride FG drivers rail from FRsport.com.

Next... adjust coils now the car is settled, Install proper o2 bung for AEM uego, alignment, tuner.

Issues - Wideband is allover, I used an existing bung and its too deep. Oil drain plug is dripping, new one on order.

STILL NEED A RADIO/SHIFT BEZEL WITH GOOD TABS

i have a bezel for you

[mattblancarte]

Not sure, thinking of welding a beefy plate to the tension rod brackets and putting it there, or right on the front of the radiator support. I am using a manual cable operated valve.

If you've considered inside the cabin, it can definitely be done. You can keep the passenger seat and all paneling, too.

Four holes drilled down through the floor using these to mount: http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi ... key=24-200

Then, a simple hole through the firewall feeding the line to the check valve.

Why did you choose the manual valve?

[OutToWinPAHC]

Not putting an oil accumulator in the car...... silly boy, they sell gaskets for them because they leak and mb interior is clean lol.s. Manual valve are more reliable, and they dont control flow, if pressure drops based on the air side it discharges when it return its fills just on the air pressure which is also needed for the electric valbe. Valve is cable actuated and is 6 feet long so I can mount it anywhere really. No need for a check valve, I am plumbing right into the blocks oil galley. I went with manual for simplicity, proven, design. I even called canton and they suggested a mnaul vavle for my use (hard street use with some strip or road coarses)

[mattblancarte]

That makes sense as you have a full interior and a potential oil leak would be a huge problem. I have the "luxury" of the stripped interior, so I just went with in-cabin. Dunno if you've seen mine, but you can search for my thread and it's on there a few times.

I can only speak from personal experience from owning/using one for 18+ months (1000+ minutes HPDE and a few thousand street miles)... but I haven't leaked a single drop from my Accusump system. Haven't read any horror stories of these things breaking down and shooting oil everywhere, but I guess the lines and fittings can fail if improperly installed. I can imagine crazy stories being out there, though.

I was ready to get the manual valve (really just to save money), but I did the same thing and called Canton before I did my setup. Also spoke with G-Dimension (guys that installed the motor in my car), but more just about accusump vs. extra pan baffling.

They (Canton) advised me to purchase the electric valve because they said I'd be hard-pressed to notice the pressure failure in time to pull the manual cable. I can attest that I would most likely not notice until it's too late. I have my oil pressure alarm go off at 1.75 bar, but it's impossible to hear with the wind/engine/etc.

Since you are mostly hard street use, I can definitely see your logic for the manual valve.

The manual valves release at 55-60 psi I believe. Same as the "race" electronic valve. I opted for the 35-40 psi valve because I'm not revving the bejeesus out of my motor and I run really good oil.

Sorry for the novel. Just wanted to take advantage of chatting with another Accusump owner hehe. It's one of those mods that few people have so it's fun to see someone else working out their setup.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Manual valves have a discharge range, it depends on the PSi on the air side 6-12psi. if you charge the electric valves air side to 10psi the electric valve will open and shut to regulate 35psi. But I think if I charge at 6psi I should discharge in the low 30's. Which is fine my cold idle is about 45psi hot about 39. WOT I see 85psi about ( high flow, high pressure ported oil pump)

[mattblancarte]

Hmmm, I thought that the manual valves were only meant to rapid-refill.

I'm pretty sure when I read the installation manual you are supposed to keep the air pre-charge between 7-10 psi, so that the accumulator can mimic the engine oil pressure while filling 3qt oil. My understanding was it had less to do with the desired discharge rate, and more about how accurate your accumulation will be while in use.

When you fill that thing up with oil, you'll want it all the way up to 85psi air-side (mimicking your rev-pressure). That means, effectively, that you'll want to rev the engine out for 30 seconds or so PRIOR to closing the manual valve (keeping pressure up as high as you can while filling up all the way to 3qt capacity). Otherwise, you'll be charging/discharging inaccurate amounts.

I thought you would pretty much use this bad-boy in two scenarios:

- While cold starting to pre-oil (cold oil obviously allows for instant high-pressures, effectively filling and allowing you to close the manual valve without the need for revving).

- While staging during a drag race or HPDE/TT/Race/etc.

Otherwise, I would just leave it charged to 85 psi with the valve closed. There's no need to have it open for street use unless you really plan on launching and accelerating or mobbing through canyon roads or something wild.

The standard electric valves are low-discharge (20-25 psi) and are really only meant to pre-oil engines. I have the middle E.P.C. which regulates charge/discharge to 35-40 psi. This allows me to cruise around and fill it up, and still have enough pressure in the event of a pump failure/cavitation/dry-pickup.

When you pull that manual lever, I'm pretty sure you're going to get 60 psi or so of rapid unchecked discharge-rate.

Maybe I'm looking at the wrong manual valve, though... Who knows. I still feel confused while considering different setups lol.

[OutToWinPAHC]

The LS engine has bad drain back, and they are known to suck air at high RPM under lateral force. So this is spun bearing insurance, going to keep it open just incase when its running and use it to preoil. Using it as a second sump pretty much.

[mattblancarte]

Yeah, you are definitely making the right call with an accusump. So much invested into your motor... wouldn't want it to fail on something silly like oil starvation.

I went with it for that same reason (bad drain back), along with the RB's notorious oil pump failures in high-revving events. Dropped my rev limiter to 7500 to help combat pump failure, too.

My only concern when I read that you'll drive around with the valve open is that you'll be constantly over-filling your system with oil. Unless you have the accusump charged up to 85 psi and you're maintaining that engine oil pressure, it will be forcing extra oil into the oil gallery/pan.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Broke it lol.... fuel pump went, now one ordered.

[diggles240]

You were drifting again, right?