Orange hot turbo on my rb25! I cannot figure out why...

[Cltchkikr7]

I just finished swapping in my RB25DET into my 95 silvia and took it for a test drive, it didnt overheat but after about ten minutes of running it on the highway it started to lose power, I pulled over and popped the hood to find the turbo glowing orange. I cannot figure out why and yes, I did search the forums for an answer... Any help would be greatly appreciated

[Coolwhip]

just a suggestion...

check your turbo lines going to the turbo's mid section.

Make sure no gunk is backed up in either oil or coolant lines.

Also just woundering, what type of exhuast system do you have in place?

[Joe]

do you have a catalytic converter? how old is it?

[Cltchkikr7]

I have a custom 3" turbo back, new hi flow cat, with a new magnaflow muffler, will check lines tomorrow morning and get back to you on that.

[ANVIL]

take a picture of it

just want to see it

[240z4u]

You need to check your base ignition timing and air/fuel ratio.

Your either sending tremendously hot exhaust through the turbo or sending so much fuel into it that its burning in the turbo exhaust housing.

Your looking at catastrophic failure if you don't figure this out.

Also, did you change the timing belt and did you get the cam timing correct?

[Coolwhip]

+1

[Joe]

+1

totally off topic but every time i see your username i hear stewie from family guy saying "coowhip"

[Cjmartz2k]

You need to check your base ignition timing and air/fuel ratio.

Your either sending tremendously hot exhaust through the turbo or sending so much fuel into it that its burning in the turbo exhaust housing.

Your looking at catastrophic failure if you don't figure this out.

Also, did you change the timing belt and did you get the cam timing correct?

+2

totally off topic but every time i see your username i hear stewie from family guy saying "coowhip"

also +2

[Cltchkikr7]

I just put in the nismo fpr and checked it at 38lbs reg/45 at full boost, the fpr keeps a 1:1 air/fuel as far as i know. Just checked the timing, its on, new timing belt and cam gear marks are matched and was set at cyl #1 tdc when prepping motor for install... Before I took it on the hwy I let it idle and monitored it for at least 15 mins with no probs, its when it hits 3k ish rpms for 5-10 mins, thats when it starts glowing... It backfires mildly sometimes on downshift if that has anything to do with it

[Cltchkikr7]

Well Id post a pic but Im not sure how to on these threads

[240z4u]

Quite simply, its time to buy a wideband.

Did you use the FSM when putting the timing belt back on?

Your not doing something like running a different MAF on a stock ecu are you?

Have you done a boost leak test? You may have a good sized vac. leak that is causing you to run lean. Are you running a catch can?

Upload images to photobucket or something and link them here, some engine bay photos will do wonders for us to pick out anything you may have made a mistake on.

Evan

+1 on the coowhip thing... I never noticed it before. Thanks guys.. haha.

[Coolwhip]

totally off topic but every time i see your username i hear stewie from family guy saying "coowhip"

Guess I got to go search YouTube for that. A friend sent a link once b4 but didn't watch it.

[240z4u]

Guess I got to go search YouTube for that. A friend sent a link once b4 but didn't watch it.

What the hell, you don't watch Family Guy? Man, I don't see how this relationship can possibly work.

Evan

[Cltchkikr7]

ok i unplugged the coils and opened the oil feed line and turned it over a few times and no oil came out, not sure if thats the best way to check but nothing came out at all. I used the fsm while putting the tbelt on and no im not using a diff maf but yes i got the stock ecu in there, let me upload some pics here... Oh also, no catch can, and i just swapped out all the vac lines but have not done a test yet, gonna try that

[Cltchkikr7]

Yes the heat shield is off but that was just to test drive it. Trust me Ill put that back on once i figure this out.

[Kansei240sx]

You need to check your timing with a timing light.

On the next step disconnect your oil return hose from the oil pan to where its just dumping to a drain bucket, and plug your oil return nipple on the oil pan.

Start it up for about 15 seconds if you dont see oil coming from there you have a clog in the turbine center section, if you remove the oil feed line, and dont have oil, coming from it after you start it up again for an other 15 seconds, keep going back untill you find oil coming out.

Have someone in the car to start the engine and someone, or yourself looking at the lines so you can kill the car.

Also, do this with the engine cold.

[USMCgetsome]

I'm with kansei on that. Prime the oil system with the oil feed from the turbo off and have a container available. Crank it and watch the feed pour out into the container. Also, check the oil return. If either one is clogged used your compressor and blow it out also some some chemicals to clean them.

[Cltchkikr7]

Ok so I checked the oil feed, its good, havent had time yet to get to the return but now the motor wont start, it turns over but nothing, Im going to check the oil return as soon as I can. But Im afraid I melted some internals in the turbo itself or seized it somehow. Whats your guys thoughts on that and or a cheap way to rebuild/replace the turbo if it is seized?

[USMCgetsome]

do a compression test! before you go tearing down anything. If it rotates that means so far that nothing is bent, broken, out of alignment. Although, a compression test will tell you if your bottom end is still functioning properly. i.e. good rings!

[Sil240]

Compression tests are quicker and easier.

I like leakdown tests better because if there is something wrong you can better pin point the problem.

[Bwana]

If it rotates that means so far that nothing is bent, broken, out of alignment.

Unfortunately, not true. I worked on a 25 with a broken exhaust cam that would spin over all day long...

BTW, I'll be in Oceanside over New Years. If you want to meet up let me know!

[Cltchkikr7]

Yeah man, that would be great if you could stop by, my email is [email protected]. Hit me up for specifics and we will figure this out

[Bwana]

I'll shoot you an email when I'm in the area.

[Darius]

Didn't Shocker f**k his motor up on the dyno from the adjustable cam gear slipping and retarding the timing to the point where he cooked his turbo bearings and/or melted the piston rings? I'll find that thread and post a link here in a minute. <edit> Here:

zerothread?id=325824

You said you checked the timing before this happened and it was spot on. But I'm concerned that it slipped and is very retarded now.

Like others said, check that there's oil going to the turbo too.

[Cltchkikr7]

So what I get from the thread was it was supposedly his timing but ended up just being his intercooler piping? This motor threw out its cam-angle sensor about 3 weeks ago btw, didnt think that would mean anything until I read that thread, do you think the new cam-angle sensor needs to be re-adjusted now and thats why it wont start?

[Darius]

No it wasn't his intercooler piping. You obviously didn't read thru the entire thread or you would have seen the problem that relates to yours on page 3.

If the CAS is bad or the alignment tooth is broken off and the CAS isn't properly clocked relative to the cam, then you could experience symptomes related to improper timing. (i.e. high EGTs and reduced power)

First, recheck the position of the CAS on the cam to verify that it is correct. Then, check the adjustable cam gear position.

[Cltchkikr7]

Ok so i checked the timing and it was all over the place, when I would move the CAS the motor would fire at random degrees and then die almost instantly. So I removed the CAS and found the half moon dowel had broken off the spindle connected to the motor. My next question is, is that spindle a part of the cam or can i replace it separately, Im going to upload some pics of the spindle and the little dowel that fell off. I know this dowel is only used to keep the spindle in the right spot when the CAS is removed/installed but would it kill the motor while it was running like it did and screw the timing all to hell? Pics inc...

[Cltchkikr7]

[fast_s14]

when i got my engine i removed my cas so i could powdercoat my covers. I found that my cas was completely seized and would not turn. Im thankful that i found that before i cranked my engine over. That piece that is broke is made onto the camshaft. You either need to replace the camshaft or some peole try to get the cas back in the right place.