opinions needed

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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k6kicker
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Car: 90 300zx(tt) 95 240sx

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ok in the end i decided to go with a ka-t over an sr20/rb25 swap...just easier to source parts for and i dont need anything radical as this will be my primary driver (with the 300z as the weekend car)...now then....the ka in there now has a 140,000 miles on it, it runs great bu the miles alone scare me....i wnated to go with a fmax stage 1 kit as it seemed to have alot for the money (if something else is better for my 95 let me know) and i was thinking that i could replace the aging pistons with some 8.5 cr forged ones (ross ones are 499 bones at ka24de.com...again better deal or better piston for the money let me know) then crank up the boost....from what i have heard the stock rods are strong as **** and dont really need replacing (and the ones i have seen are like 700 bucks) would i really need to reaplce much more or would studs rods and everything else be a wise investment (the longest trip this car will have to cover would be about 70 miles and it would be just jogging around campus with an occasional autoX here or there and also i didnt mention it but an lsd is in order, more then likely a kaaz)


deezlins
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Car: 95 240SX SE

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it really depends how much power you plan on pushing, and if youre planning on increasing redline much or not.

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Checkered-Member
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a custom kit will be cheaper, and you will have more control over parts used. (turbo kits sometimes will use cheap hardware (like wastegate, blow off valve ect, to reduce cost and appear competitive) however with a custom kit there will be plenty of custom parts made.

The rods are not as strong as you think; I saw bent rods on NA KA's it all depends on what you plan to run, but again there are 12 psi KA’s on stock bottom end.

what you need to replace? all depends on how much boost you want to run

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k6kicker
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i was thinkin 8~10 pounds

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k6kicker wrote:i was thinkin 8~10 pounds
You don’t need to replace anything, however the high mileage can be a problem and something is likely to go wrong, so I would tear the block apart replace the pitons rings clean everything very well, replace gaskets and seals. And that should do it.

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huguetpj
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Car: 93 KAT Coupe

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I would first do a compression and leak down test. If it comes out alrighty and the motor feels fine boost it.

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k6kicker
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see but the thing is, the 300z is in storage at my parents house (as i have no place for it ehre at my apartment at school) which is about 70 miles away, so if i have something break on me, i'm ****ed in terms of transportation...which is the basis for my overbuilting/underboosting idea...a bump in power (more then a header and an intake would do) and not lose reliability

SingleCamSam
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Joined: Sun May 11, 2003 4:37 pm

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If your compression is higher than 150 i wouldn't even crack the motor open. A built motor won't be any more reliable than a stock one if your detonating.

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WDRacing
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True statement Sam...the rods are extremely strong. If you bent a rod whether it was NA or forced induction it was do to severe tensile overstress. The long stroke of the KA doesn't allow for over revving of the motor without alot of work. So if you maintain a stock rpm range your rods will be just fine.

Check your compression, if its good, boost away. My 95 has 158,000 and I'm about to install my first prototype turbo kit. The wastegates I'm using are set to 13lbs. I'm not even the slightest bit afraid of damaging anything. For 10 psi you REALLY only need an engine in good running order. Just be sure to eliminate detonation, which is somthing I'm sure your familiar with, owning a 300ZX. Pretty soon you'll be wondering why you should even keep the Z...lol.

If ya need anything, feel free to email me [email protected]

WD

Structure240sx
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at one meet i went there was a guy with a 95 auto with a nsport kit like mine boosting 8psi with 140,000mi. only difference was he was running 370cc injectors and an safc. jsut make sure u have a half decent engine management and u'll be fine on the stock bottom end


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