Opinions for my oil pan mods

[Bwana]

Here are some pictures of my oil pan:

Now for my purposes the sump is exactly backwards. My first impressions on considering this mod:

Do I need to leave the windage try/baffle (in a modified form, for the pickup line)?Dipstick will have to be relocated, probably mounted to the side of the pan.What is my best option for the pickup line? It will have to be lengthend to reach the new rear sump location. Completely new line? Splice in a section to lengthen it? What are your ideas?While I'm about it, I'm planning to increase the oil capacity. How much is reasonable? And are there any other oiling system issues that I can address while I'm at it?

[float_6969]

Do I need to leave the windage try/baffle (in a modified form, for the pickup line)?

Although you don't NEED to, I would definatly reccomend it. I would also build a better baffle system around the pickup.

What is my best option for the pickup line? It will have to be lengthend to reach the new rear sump location. Completely new line? Splice in a section to lengthen it? What are your ideas?

I would simply modify the stock pickup by lengthening it.

While I'm about it, I'm planning to increase the oil capacity. How much is reasonable? And are there any other oiling system issues that I can address while I'm at it?

I think another 1-2Qt should be plenty. You might consider some work to the crank that would allow it to flow more oil, especially to the #3 main bearings. They're imfamous for lacking flow and wearing out first.

[pulsar gtr]

Hi,

I replied to your other thread regarding your oil pan issue, and my response was wrong.Yes, you can use a FWD oil pan, which I recomend to use one from a FWD ca18de of a 1988-1989 Nissan Pulsar. If you can get your hands on an oil pan of a ca18det AWD your in luck as you don't have to add the oil return line hole.

I took a look at my pulsar which it has a ca18det and the oil pan sump is on the crank pulley side as well as I went through some pics of some ca18de engine that I had and it shows that the oil pump sump is at the crank pulley side.

So, save yourself some headache and get a ca18de pulsar oil pan, I don't recomend using a ca16de one as if i remember correctly it is not as deap.

If you need some pics of a ca18de or ca18det fwd, email me to [email protected] and I will email you some pictures.

Thanks,

RafiPULSAR GTR

[pulsar gtr]

Ok, I am a bit confused,

Are you trying to move the deap end of the oil pan to the opposite side, becuase I just looked at some pics of a rwd oil pan and it looks the same as the fwd.

If you want some pics of both fwd or rwd to post here or to take a look at, email me.

RafiPULSAR GTR

[Bwana]

Are you trying to move the deap end of the oil pan to the opposite side, becuase I just looked at some pics of a rwd oil pan and it looks the same as the fwd.

Yea. In that second pic, the front is on the right. My problem is that having the sump on the front interferes with my crossmember.

Quote »You might consider some work to the crank that would allow it to flow more oil, especially to the #3 main bearings. They're imfamous for lacking flow and wearing out first.[/quote]Give me some particulars on this, 'cause there probably won't be an easier time to do it.

Quote »I would also build a better baffle system around the pickup.[/quote]Give me some ideas here as well. Time for some paint skilz maybe? (I like pictures )

[float_6969]

Rafi, the RWD CA18DE(T) has the sump in the front of the motor, near the crank pully. He needs it near the back, by the flywheel.

I thought that the FWD CA18DE(T)'s has the sump at the back, near the flywheel, but I could be wrong.

[pulsar gtr]

Hi Ryan,

The fwd is identical to the RWD pan,

Thanks,

RafiPULSAR GTR

[float_6969]

So why can't people with dented oil pans, just get one from a FWD CA and just have a bung welded in?

I'm not trying to argue with you, but I could swear there was some reason that you can't use a FWD oil pan on a RWD car.

[NeedCAforS13]

pickup is in the same spot, pan shape is different...

Sean

[rchboy]

When i was at sema in atlantic city this year i talked to some guys from morosso, and they said if you send a pan up to them and smoe measuremnts and pictures of the engine bay from the bottom they could custom fab a pan. It's an option but an expensive one. they said about 400 for steel seven hundred for aluminum.

[Bwana]

Ouch! Yea, that's a little pricey, plus it probably takes awhile. I've got a good welder, a torch and three grinders and the skils to do it, I just want to be sure it's enginered right before I tear into it!

[NeedCAforS13]

maybe just look at how they make moroso pans and baffles and try and duplicate that. Cut off the current pan right below the flange, and build your own bottom section out of sheet metal. Shouldn't be too hard.

Sean

[UK-SRi]

The reason number three bearing gets more wear is because of the firing sequence and lean running on 3 or 4 piston. it is actually shaking more than the other main bearings. You just need slighty more clearance on that bearing than the others and use a federal mogul copper backed babbit as opposed to the nissan aluminium backed babbit bearings.

If you look at the inlet plenum on the later Transverse SR20's you will see that the 3 and 4 intakes are moved away from each other to try and reduce this problem.

Mike

[CA19DET]

The reason number three bearing gets more wear is because of the firing sequence and lean running on 3 or 4 piston. it is actually shaking more than the other main bearings. You just need slighty more clearance on that bearing than the others and use a federal mogul copper backed babbit as opposed to the nissan aluminium backed babbit bearings.

If you look at the inlet plenum on the later Transverse SR20's you will see that the 3 and 4 intakes are moved away from each other to try and reduce this problem.

Mike

very good info there

[float_6969]

Yea, that was great. That was the first explantion I've heard for it. All I had heard was that the #3 bearings tend to wear first. I ASSUMED (And assumption is the mother of all F*ckups) that it was an oiling problem.

Sorry!

[mbmbmb23]

The reason number three bearing gets more wear is because of the firing sequence and lean running on 3 or 4 piston. it is actually shaking more than the other main bearings. You just need slighty more clearance on that bearing than the others and use a federal mogul copper backed babbit as opposed to the nissan aluminium backed babbit bearings.

If you look at the inlet plenum on the later Transverse SR20's you will see that the 3 and 4 intakes are moved away from each other to try and reduce this problem.

Mike

So is a "babbit" a bearing then?

-m

[rchboy]

Babbit is a material that bearings are made from.