Hey all,
I've recently compiled a bunch of things I'd like to replace on my SR over the winter. Basically what I'm looking for is the opinions and recommendations from you guys on a few parts. And if they would be necessary for my goals
Purpose for car: Once or twice a month at the drag strip, daily driver, street car
Goal: 300hp-350hp 12.x 1/4 time... 18psi max boost...
So far I have...
SR20DET-nothing modified12PSIMBCFMICHKS CAIWalbro 255Full exhaust
Now for the goodies I'm looking at...
Turbo TimerS-AFCS14/S15 T28 turboStock exhaust manifoldMegan Racing Fuel Pressure RegulatorAEM UEGO WidebandSTi 550cc InjectorsE-Mance Tuned ECUNew OEM HeadgasketARP Head StudsNew Oil Pump- Would this be smart to replace for safety reasons?Oil Pressure GaugeWater Temperature Gauge
Now I'm on a budget so..nothing too extreme..should I change any of these for something else, or keep it?
Lemme know guys/gals
Opinions and thoughts on SR upgrades?
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Hijacker
- Posts: 14373
- Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
- Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Forget the S14 turbo. The S15 turbo is by far superior, and easier to get ahold of (nobody sells the S14 T28 as a standalone, but plenty of people sell the S15 T28)
Get a nismo FPR. I wouldn't trust the megan unit to hold steady at 3 psi. However, unless your showing signs of over pressurization, I don't see a need for an adjustible FPR. So long as your pressure is staying in spec, there's no need for an adjuster. I've only used them to keep over zealous fuel systems in spec.
I've had some rough experiences with e-mance (poorly soldered daughter boards, etc). I would recommend Jim Wolf or Enthalpy.
I thought STi injectors were low impedence. You would have to convert the harness to include dropping resistors if that's the case.
A new oil pump is never a bad idea. However, unless your pump is showing signs of wear, I don't see the need to replace it. All of the pump failures I've seen over the years have been due to particles trying to flow through it (think chunks of metal and whatnot from busted parts).
With a good set of injectors, a Z MAF, and a good rom tune, you'll hit 320 or so easily on the S15 T28 I believe. I'm going this route right now, and I'm using 50 lb injectors, a JGY fuel rail, Z MAF, and JWT tune.
Get a nismo FPR. I wouldn't trust the megan unit to hold steady at 3 psi. However, unless your showing signs of over pressurization, I don't see a need for an adjustible FPR. So long as your pressure is staying in spec, there's no need for an adjuster. I've only used them to keep over zealous fuel systems in spec.
I've had some rough experiences with e-mance (poorly soldered daughter boards, etc). I would recommend Jim Wolf or Enthalpy.
I thought STi injectors were low impedence. You would have to convert the harness to include dropping resistors if that's the case.
A new oil pump is never a bad idea. However, unless your pump is showing signs of wear, I don't see the need to replace it. All of the pump failures I've seen over the years have been due to particles trying to flow through it (think chunks of metal and whatnot from busted parts).
With a good set of injectors, a Z MAF, and a good rom tune, you'll hit 320 or so easily on the S15 T28 I believe. I'm going this route right now, and I'm using 50 lb injectors, a JGY fuel rail, Z MAF, and JWT tune.
Re: (Hijacker)
you actually could pull high twelves with drivetrain mods and without the need for upgrading the maf and turbo with the right kind of fuel. It will be easier with the power, but if you set up your car for dragging, drop some weight get the right clutch, get your suspension set up, drop rotating mass, get some good sticky wide tires and you will be close to getting your goals.
but. I have a z32 MAF, a S15 BBturbo and a nismo fpr, that will be making its way off my car within the next couple of weeks. Im going 2871r and D-jetro. But what you have listed will net your performance goals pretty easy with the right tuning.
but. I have a z32 MAF, a S15 BBturbo and a nismo fpr, that will be making its way off my car within the next couple of weeks. Im going 2871r and D-jetro. But what you have listed will net your performance goals pretty easy with the right tuning.
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boro drift
- Posts: 2316
- Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:26 pm
- Car: '87 Supra, '92 240 with SR20 and '98 12 valve Cummins
Re: (nzmoman)
Upgrade the head gasket too. Apex or Cosworth.
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shift_SRDETuser
- Posts: 398
- Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 7:14 pm
- Car: 1996 Nissan 240SX SE
Re: (boro drift)
does the fmic not change the whole way the turbo sounds. Once it starts spooling it sounds like a jet engine.... gosh I think the sr20 is the greatest turbo motor ever made..... I luv me some sr20det yes I do.....boro drift wrote:Upgrade the head gasket too. Apex or Cosworth.
Re: (boro drift)
I was reading on McKinney Motorsports parts page, and they recommend the OEM Head Gasket for applications up to 20psi? I only plan on running a max of 18psi..and that would be only on track days(1-2 times a month)boro drift wrote:Upgrade the head gasket too. Apex or Cosworth.
Thoughts?
Re: (bassboost)
I personally would not worry about the head gasket as long as you keep up with the tuning process and keep proper cooling methods in mind. Get and monitor with a good water and oil temp gauge and you should be fine. The OEM headgasket has held more than 20 psi on numerous occasions so I imagine you will have no issues with the one you have as long s compression checks out. I've never replaced one and never had one go out on 12-13 sec SRs.
I think the metal head gasket thing is a must for people who are building racing projects and plan on beating the crap out of their motors. BUT if you are getting a head gasket anyway then upgrade. I am building a 350-380whp car right now and I am only considering upgrading because I plan on doing cams and an intake manifold...no reason not too if I am already going to be in there. But you won't need it to meet your goals and still be reliable.
Modified by nzmoman at 7:55 AM 9/25/2008
I think the metal head gasket thing is a must for people who are building racing projects and plan on beating the crap out of their motors. BUT if you are getting a head gasket anyway then upgrade. I am building a 350-380whp car right now and I am only considering upgrading because I plan on doing cams and an intake manifold...no reason not too if I am already going to be in there. But you won't need it to meet your goals and still be reliable.
Modified by nzmoman at 7:55 AM 9/25/2008
Re: (nzmoman)
About the STi injectors not working...from what I keep finding when I search about swapping them, it looks to be the only thing that needs modified is the clips for them.
After a quick search on google I found that STi injectors are high impedance and also side feed.
"STi uses high impedance side feed injectors (also called bottom feed)"-http://www.toronto-subaru-club.com/foru ... hp?t=81864
However, when they say the clips need modified..what does this mean? The injector wiring harness clips? Or is there a clip holding the injector in place?
About the FPR..it seems that my car is already running pretty rich(smell of gas, black smoke @ WOT,etc.) I'm assuming the system is just dumping fuel through? And I figured get an adjustable to regulate it..?
After a quick search on google I found that STi injectors are high impedance and also side feed.
"STi uses high impedance side feed injectors (also called bottom feed)"-http://www.toronto-subaru-club.com/foru ... hp?t=81864
However, when they say the clips need modified..what does this mean? The injector wiring harness clips? Or is there a clip holding the injector in place?
About the FPR..it seems that my car is already running pretty rich(smell of gas, black smoke @ WOT,etc.) I'm assuming the system is just dumping fuel through? And I figured get an adjustable to regulate it..?
Re: (bassboost)
naw man...turn up the boost to balance it out...
just kidding.
I would get some sort of A/F monitoring system to see what is really going on and where it is happening in the RPM range. Then make necessary steps to tune accordingly.
just kidding.
I would get some sort of A/F monitoring system to see what is really going on and where it is happening in the RPM range. Then make necessary steps to tune accordingly.