Opinion on GTiR T28 on CA

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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Loofee95SE
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Hey guys, well I'm getting an Offer for a really good deal on A GTiR T28.and as some of u guys may know the Turbine housing is a .86 A/R ( compressor is.60) which is bigger than the stock ca t25 or even SR. To u guys who actualy have 1 in their, CA what was needed to make it fit?? or is it a bolt-on deal. thanks C


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r34 gtr
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its pretty much a bolt on affair, you may have to mess with oil lines and stuff but i wouldnt be too worried. that turbo should make quite a bit of power on your ca.

- tim

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Loofee95SE
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Hey Tim, how ur car running?? yeah, to take care of the oil & water line....I've already order Taka lines. just need to confirm that's it's abolt on deal.. C

RMiller
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It bolts right on, I've had one for a few months. However, the inlet faces the wrong way, so I cut it right next to the flange and I use my stock rubber intake tube. The outlet tube will point vertically, so you won't be able to use the ~45 degree stock coupler. I'm using a 2" 90 degree radiator hose that replaces the stock 2" metal pipe. You can also buy a 90 degree silicone coupler, but those are bank.

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Loofee95SE
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Cool thanks RMiller, I was actually, waitting for ur reply, cos I know u have 1 on ur CA, but I have no way of talking to u. how i sthe performance gain?? I've got Fc 460cc injectors, ready to go in @ the same time, with new water pump and thermostat. C

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f s t caz
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i have a custom hotpipe and custom inlet on mine

just a whatever diamter pipe flared on the bottom w/ a flange slipped over and a gasket underneath for the inlet. It's much shorter now than it was in the picture

you can see where there's going to be an issue w/ the hot piping

everything together

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Loofee95SE
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f s t caz wrote:i have a custom hotpipe and custom inlet on mine

just a whatever diamter pipe flared on the bottom w/ a flange slipped over and a gasket underneath for the inlet. It's much shorter now than it was in the picture

you can see where there's going to be an issue w/ the hot piping

everything together
Question on that last pic, why is ur master cylinder on the right side of the firewall?? and also does ur car run rich with the vented BOV?? mine does....bad... Did u have to clock the turbo @ all?? I have all kind of pipes here that i can cut and my buddies can weld it for me..so I'm not so worried about that. I'm more woried about fit ment issues..don't want to go with fter market ( aka SSAutochrome) mani. thanks C

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my only concern with that turbo would be that turbine housing's A/R is pretty big. From what I've heard, most people using a .86 on the hot side say that it's pretty laggy on this motor. I don't have any first hand experience with it though, so that is just hersay...

NeedCAforS13
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Loofee95SE wrote:
Question on that last pic, why is ur master cylinder on the right side of the firewall??
haha because its RHD of course!

Sean

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I've driven Chris' car and the turbo lag isn't bad at all, it is indeed RHD, and if it is running rich, I couldn't really tell--it idles solidly and pulls hard.

P.S.-I suck at driving RHD.

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f s t caz
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Loofee95SE wrote:Question on that last pic, why is ur master cylinder on the right side of the firewall??
rhd conversion at the same time as CA install

Quote »and also does ur car run rich with the vented BOV?? mine does....bad... [/quote]yes, it did run a bit rich, but i never had any drivability/stumbling/stalling issues. However, when the motor is installed again, it will have a recirc kit installed as well

Quote »Did u have to clock the turbo @ all?? [/quote]as far as i know, the turbo is not clocked, but i did buy it from someone else who had intended to put it on a Z32. the only thing i know for certain is that the wastegate actuator was moved in an attempt to make it work, the rod snapped and the bracket was cut and rewelded (which actually created a fitment issue for me, as it rests right against one of the AC lines which runs right along the frame)

Quote »I'm more woried about fit ment issues..don't want to go with fter market ( aka SSAutochrome) mani.[/quote]notice the tight fit between the heatsheild and the compressor housing. it was somewhat of a pain to get it on, but it will fit. I think i had an issue getting it on the manifold with the manifold already installed b/c of the motor mount still being attached to the motor, as well as the fun coolant lines. I had a little bit of manipulating to do w/ the lines, but that could have been a result of removing/installing this turbo and tweaking the lines a touch.



i will say this though, with the stock mani/stock exhaust, the lag was noticable. I never got a chance to swap out the elbow for a far less restrictive one, or to swap out the downpipe or any other exhaust piping, so i know for a fact that the turbo was being held back a lot. even still, it pulled very nicely on the interstate even if it didn't fully build the 12psi until 3500+, it pulled all the way to 7000 at which point i shifted. it might have kept going, but i didn't want to run the risk of finding out. I know that a free flowing exhaust will help the spool considerablly, and i'm sure that better wastegate management will make the turbo perform all the better. I think you'll be very pleased with it, especially if you can get a deal on one.

and incase you were wondering about a comparison w/ stock

RMiller
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Loofee95SE wrote:Cool thanks RMiller, I was actually, waitting for ur reply, cos I know u have 1 on ur CA, but I have no way of talking to u. how i sthe performance gain?? I've got Fc 460cc injectors, ready to go in @ the same time, with new water pump and thermostat. C
No problem. Performance is like f s t caz said, but I don't feel it pull hard after about 5500. I mean, it's accelerating, but it feels like running a v8 past about 4500. I'm running 1 bar right now, and it's hard to say because it throws me back in my seat, but I think I get full boost around 3500-3800 rpm in 1st, a little sooner in higher gears. It's really strong from 4500-5500, and I'm most impressed with acceleration in 3rd, 4th, 5th gear. It just keeps pulling, it's amazing. On the freeway in 5th, I accelerate faster than my '00 mustang gt at stock boost.

This T28 isn't too big for the CA, but if you have an equal choice between it and an s14/15 t28, I would get the latter. Still, it will build boost smoothly up until about 7 psi, then shoot up to whatever you set the boost at. So about .1 bar at 2300, .2 at 2500, .3 at 3000, .4 at 3500 (it changes depending on what I set my boost at, so I don't know for sure, that's why there may be discrepancies between my figures here and above).

You have to re-clock the compressor. I had to cut my heat shield to get it to fit, but it's not a big deal. You have to mess with the wastegate bracket so that when it is re-clocked it will work properly(see above post). To do this, you basically cut out a triangle from part of the bracket, then close the gap and weld it. You'll know exactly what I mean when you clock it to the correct position. I got away without welding it because my brother drilled a couple holes and added spacers in such a way that positions it where it needs to be, but welding is easier and probably more reliable.

What I would do now for the turbo outlet is make a 6 bolt flange that lets you rotate the outlet pipe 20 degrees (estimate) so you don't need to buy a silicone 90 degree coupler or a fat radiator hose. Just get a 1/4 inch aluminum sheet, match it to the turbo outlet flange and drill 3 holes, then position the outlet pipe where it needs to be and drill another 3 holes. Then cut ~2 inch hole to match the outlet size and you'll be good to go. Do what f s t caz did for the inlet.

I recommend getting the injectors tested and cleaned in necessary. There's a place that does it for pretty cheap, and it looks very professional, but I forgot the name. http://www.witchhunter.com/ There's one place, $12 per injector. I think it would make a noticeable difference with most older injectors, like yours and mine (dsm 450's). I talk too much.

KaZ (VaBch)
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I had fstcaz's turbo on my CA18ET ('84 200sx turbo) and it was clocked for installation from its setup for the GTiR. Its a simple procedure. I just used a stock turbo for comparison and moved it around and torqued it down.

When I had the turbo on my CA18ET, I would get 10-12psi pretty quickly. I'm fairly certain I had full boost before 4k. fstcaz bishez about lag and slow rev speed on his CA, but I really think its due to his REALLY FRIGGIN RESTRICTIVE STOCK KA EXHAUST SYSTEM! lol... when I had it installed, I had a 2.5" highflow downpipe, and a full 2.5" highflow exhaust behind the turbo...

That is the NEW design of the downpipe I'm using. The one I have, the pipes join closer to the turbo flange, rather than all the way at the end flange. This DP is actually for a Z32, but it fit with some trimming of the transmission bell housing. Exhaust was custom made locally to fit the downpipe flange.

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Loofee95SE
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Awesome, too bad for me the seller back-out...-_-...so I'm back huntting turbo again....dammmmn. just gonna go w/ S15 T28 from j-spec. and get done with it. thanks for all the input guys.

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8ggalant
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hi im a noob...but i was wondering if u could use the o2 elbow for the s15/or aftermarket elbow on the gtir -t28...and use a sr downpipe...is this correct?

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Loofee95SE
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SEARCH noob!!SEARCH!!, sorry I had to do that.. YES the CA o2 housing will fit on Allgarrett T2 serie turbo. ( and corect me if I'm wrong) I used Sr DP on mine. however u have to cut and reweld it..not a biggie. C by the way" HAPPY THANKS GIVING " To all of u!! C

NeedCAforS13
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SR o2 housing and SR downpipe = no cutting or welding required. My 3 inch downpipe kinda rattles against the frame rail (nothing afew whacks with a pound-o-meter won't fix )

Sean


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