Only Driver's Window Working?

[Espious]

Hi all! I fairly recently bought a 2012 M37x from a shady dealer(Boost Motors in Virginia) and after fixing tons of problems I finally got to have some fun with the car.

Unfortunately, that didn't last long... After putting the back passenger window down, none of the window switches on the doors work, and only the driver window switch works on the driver door. I've tried pressing the button to lock the window switches to no response. Putting the key in the door and turning it also only affects the driver window.

I'm not sure if this is something that would throw a code but I do have a OBD reader I can use.

If anyone has any ideas I will be forever in your debt.

[VStar650CL]

On the late M's, all the switches have their own smartwork and each can drop or close its own window. So if the windows don't operate from their own door switches, the only likely cause I see is a bad kiddie lock button in the master switch.

[VStar650CL]

PS - You can get all the diagnostic info for the power window system here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FPWC.pdf

[VStar650CL]

One other thing I notice in the WD's is that the master switch is the only one of the four which gets ignition power. It isn't specified whether the master can operate the motor off +ignition, but if it can, then it's possible the battery supply from the BCM has failed. Check the Yellow wire at the passenger front switch for juice, if there isn't any then the BCM is probably faulty.

[Espious]

One other thing I notice in the WD's is that the master switch is the only one of the four which gets ignition power. It isn't specified whether the master can operate the motor off +ignition, but if it can, then it's possible the battery supply from the BCM has failed. Check the Yellow wire at the passenger front switch for juice, if there isn't any then the BCM is probably faulty.

I'll have to get into the wiring a bit later. I'm down a hand for the moment so I can only really get at stuff that only requires one.

I did just notice that the switch for the drivers window is working with the car completely off.

Thank you for the replies, I appreciate it a lot.

[VStar650CL]

I did just notice that the switch for the drivers window is working with the car completely off.

That definitely isn't right. Don't be surprised if you discover someone put the wrong master switch in it trying to "fix" something. Nissan/Infiniti makes a ton of lookalike switches, and I can't tell you how many people I've seen get their arses bit shopping electronic parts by Make-Model-Year instead of getting the correct N/I part number. Go to this site and put in your VIN, then look up the master switch and make sure the number is the same as what's in the car. If not, that's probably your culprit.
https://www.infinitipartsdeal.com/

[Espious]

Wanted to put a quick update. Was checking to see if my 12V socket fuse was blown and while I was down there I made sure all the connectors I could reach were snug. Unfortunately I don't know if it reset itself before that or if something I touched fixed it. I think I'll take the win though and only use the driver window until I have more time(and my hand back lol).

Now I just have to replace the busted air cleaner and replace all the fasteners with OEM ones since some jackwagon decided to use those generic seemingly permanent ones (Thanks Boost Motors smh).

[Espious]

Seems water was leaking from the sunroof, down the A pillars, and onto the BCM. I didn't notice at first because it wasn't getting the liner on the pillars wet. Shoved a tube into the drains, shot compressed air into them to clear them up, and let the car dry out in the garage. Also snapped the plastic blocker off of the drain plug on the passenger side. I assume the plug for the other side is under the drivers side cowl, but I wasn't feeling like taking that off and it cleared out with the compressed air anyway.

Windows haven't opened by themselves yet and seem to be responding as usual.

Moral of the story is: CLEAN YOUR SUNROOF DRAINS BEFORE IT'S TOO LATE.

[VStar650CL]

Some advice, break all the connectors directly underneath the A-pillar base and hit them with WD40 or PB Blaster to stop any corrosion in progress. If you find any green, use contact cleaner before applying the WD (Deoxit is the s#it but it's pricey). Most of those pins are mighty tiny and it only takes a little bit of corrosion to cause a broken male pin. Then you have a hard-to-fix catastrophe.

IIRC (I did one once) the bulkhead fitting on the driver's side can be reached from the inside by pulling the lower dash and loosening the fusebox. Then you can break the diffuser nub by pushing a screwdriver through the fitting. Even if it isn't removed, a busted nub is still a whole lot less likely to cause problems than an intact one.

[Espious]

Finally got a chance to check all the connectors and such on the passenger side and figured I'd make an update post in case anyone needs it. For me, the BCM had managed to escape getting wet. It seems that Infiniti decided to move it out of the waterfall danger zone on the M37's. On the G37's (originally was using G37 sunroof leak info since it's more plentiful) the BCM seems to be mounted more or less where this M117 connector on the M37 is.

Digging in, so far the only connector that seems to have gotten corroded is M117. Which, I think would be even worse to replace than the whole BCM. A whole potential *tiny* 100 pins of darkness. I sprayed it with some MAF/contact cleaner just to clean it up a bit and will probably go back with dialectic grease to make sure it stays dry.

I'll probably be trying to clean and check more connectors. For some reason my window lockout button still doesn't work, not that it really matters in my case. I have some flickering lights still, more or less everything but the headlights, but I think that might just be my alternator dying.