ongoing problem with my MAF

[RedSubdivisions]

I bought a new MAF and swapped it in and the car still starts up and then dies a few seconds later. Well, I got it to idle, but the car was puffing out black smoke (running rich) and then I ended up accidentally tapping two wires together when I bumped the MAF and it killed the engine.

Does this mean I just popped the MAF? Now when I start the car, the car won't even hold an idle (I have to rev it to keep it alive) and now it's running rich. however, if I unplug the MAF, it still idles but slightly rough. everything is back to stock specs and this has been a burden for a few weeks now. this is driving me nuts. any idea?

[KantMatchMe]

Well I'm no master tech and others may have better advice but I'll give you my 2cents....Do you have a check engine light? did you drive the car afterward? if so can you rev past 2400rpm?...otherwise check the voltage at the 1st pin(terminal1) and ground on the MAF connector while its still plugged in...with engine off and "Key On". it should be aprox 0.2 volts...then start engine let it warm up. Check for voltage at the same place, this time it should read aprox 1 - 1.4 volts...that should point you in the right direction also get a hold of a service manual it has more in dept diagnoses procedures & will save you a lot of headaches...I hope that helped somewhat

[RedSubdivisions]

Well I'm no master tech and others may have better advice but I'll give you my 2cents....Do you have a check engine light? did you drive the car afterward? if so can you rev past 2400rpm?...otherwise check the voltage at the 1st pin(terminal1) and ground on the MAF connector while its still plugged in...with engine off and "Key On". it should be aprox 0.2 volts...then start engine let it warm up. Check for voltage at the same place, this time it should read aprox 1 - 1.4 volts...that should point you in the right direction also get a hold of a service manual it has more in dept diagnoses procedures & will save you a lot of headaches...I hope that helped somewhat

yeah, I can rev the bastard to the moon if I wanted when it's plugged in, but the car won't hold an idle when it's plugged in. however, when I unplug it, the car will idle, but won't go past 2400 RPM. it's weird. I've tried 2 other MAF's besides mine and it does the same thing; dies out within seconds after plugging it in (or sometimes instantly). however, I put an SR MAF on there and the car kept a decent idle. it's so strange. I'll do some more research when I go back to the shop tomorrow.

[KantMatchMe]

Dude that is weird, and you got your car to idle using a SR MAF on a DOHC KA? I've herd of using a SOHC MAF on an SR but not what you did....I dnt know man maybe check out the MAF for any visible damage or debri...also check 4 continuity at the ground between MAF connector and ECU harness you may have a bad sub-harness connector somewere...I forget which pin it is some1 correct me if I'm wrong maybe 16 or 17 on the harness?? I'll check ou tmy manual when I get a chance but let me know how everything works out that's an interesting problem you got going on.

[RedSubdivisions]

Dude that is weird, and you got your car to idle using a SR MAF on a DOHC KA? I've herd of using a SOHC MAF on an SR but not what you did....I dnt know man maybe check out the MAF for any visible damage or debri...also check 4 continuity at the ground between MAF connector and ECU harness you may have a bad sub-harness connector somewere...I forget which pin it is some1 correct me if I'm wrong maybe 16 or 17 on the harness?? I'll check ou tmy manual when I get a chance but let me know how everything works out that's an interesting problem you got going on.

I doubt I have had a bad MAF considering I've tested 3 and they all have the same symptoms. Plus my wiring harness is in good shape, not to mention that I have 2 extra ECU's (one from a 1991 5-speed and the other from a 1993 auto). If those don't work, then I have no clue what the s*** it could be. I'll have to scrounge up my multimeter and see what my numbers come up as. I'll definitely keep this one posted.

[whatvtec]

I bought a new MAF and swapped it in and the car still starts up and then dies a few seconds later. Well, I got it to idle, but the car was puffing out black smoke (running rich) and then I ended up accidentally tapping two wires together when I bumped the MAF and it killed the engine.

Does this mean I just popped the MAF? Now when I start the car, the car won't even hold an idle (I have to rev it to keep it alive) and now it's running rich. however, if I unplug the MAF, it still idles but slightly rough. everything is back to stock specs and this has been a burden for a few weeks now. this is driving me nuts. any idea?

check the timming i had a problem like that, i was running rich and the car could shut off, also maybe u have a bad injector drowning the engine.

[RedSubdivisions]

check the timming i had a problem like that, i was running rich and the car could shut off, also maybe u have a bad injector drowning the engine.

Nope, all injectors are good and my timing is just right.

The MAF itself is fine, so that's 50 bucks down the drain (I tested my old one by blowing on it and it worked fine). But here's the weird thing, I can hook up all my wires on the MAF just fine EXCEPT for the 12V wire (the black and white wire); the second I put that one on, my engine dies out. So really, when the MAF starts regulating air, that's when the engine shuts down. Does this sound like an electrical problem? or possibly a vacuum that's associated with an electrical one?