One Z Down Made Room For Another

[islandtuner242]

Ok Well Today I Went Out In My Car To Have A Little Fun And Decided To Slide Out Of The Corner By My Friends House & The Wheel Studs Decided To Give Way So Now My Car's Dead .... So My New Plan Is To Swap My Engine Into Another Shell But The Shell Had An Automatic Engine In It, So What All Would I Need From My Car (Stick Shift) To Use In The New Shell

I Was Thinking Along The Lines Of The Shifter, The Shift Linkage, Clutch Pedal etc. Any Ideas Guys............. Also My Z Is A 2+2 And The New Shell Is A 2 Seater

Thanks In Advance,
Kadeem

[NolimitZ32]

1) Please stop typing in caps, it makes your posts very annoying to read.
2) The complete Auto > 5spd swap guide should be in the "Everything you need to know thread" or available through one of the larger shops, I've seen it before.
3) You will need all potions of the clutch system, the shift linkage, interior piece around the shifter, you will need some other things as well which you are better off finding out from someone that has actually done this before.

4) You need to get a 2+0 NA, 5spd driveshaft, I believe a stock 2+0 na 5spd unit will work.

P.S. How does a as in 1 wheel stud snapping destory the car? what actually happened?

[islandtuner242]

My Original Plan Was To Get A 2+0 But I Couldn't Find One But Now That I Found One I'm Going To Jump On The Chance, It's Only $500 So I Thought Why Not And When The Studs Snapped The Rotor Sat In The Rim Damaging The Rotor But The Body Is Still In Good Shape I'm Just Not A Fan Of The 2+2 And The Typing In Caps Is A Habit

[NolimitZ32]

Horrible habit man, are you and engineering designer? I used to be and all the text has to be in CAPS that's why I ask, either way please try to not, it hurts the eyes especially when looking at it on a screen. I agree I think the 2+0 is much sexier and $500 holy crap, you can't even get a shell here in Texas for $500. So you snapped all 5 studs at the same time? did you hit a curb or something, I've just never heard of that just happening, that's crazy. GL with the swap man.

[marty1mc]

Have to agree on the caps, it is difficult to read. Habit or not, if you want folks to help you, then try not to annoy them

I think the list NolimitZ32 gave you is pretty good. You will also need the Alternator harness from the donor car. It has the connections for the manual transmission. Plus, the hardline from the donor from the master to the slave, the junction and the 2nd bleed point. Your ECU will be fine since you just won't use that section of the ECU.

[islandtuner242]

@NolimitZ32 Nah I'm not an engineer it's just something that stuck with me from computer class in high school now a buddy of mine just hooked me up with another killer deal that might smash all previous plans out of the water (but i'm trying not to get ahead of myself) Seeing as how my original car is already a 5spd i should already have everything i need (transmission wise) besides the driveshaft......

[A Paratroopers 300zx]

Am I the only one that thinks replacing all the studs and possibly the hub/rotor... will be cheaper than $500??? And certainly a lot less labor intensive than a swap into a new shell??? Let alone, an auto to manual swap!!! I'm sorry, but how does smashing one wheel/hub total a car?

I think you are much better off just fixing the damage, unless there is a lot you aren't telling us...

[vg1134]

well if you not a fan of the 2+2 then get rid of it and buy a 2+0. sure would beat the hell out of doing all that swap work

[islandtuner242]

I'm not holding out on any information the studs snapped the "protection" around the rotor bent SLIGHTLY nothing major.... i'm just a BIG fan of the 2+0 & it just wasn't available when i wanted one (hardly any Z was available when i was on the hunt)

[islandtuner242]

Sorry for the late reply but I finally got my studs over the weekend ad decided it's cheaper to just repair the car then get another shell now my only problem is I have a power steering leak and I can't seem t find where it's coming from, I've changed the J hose because the original one was dry rot so I thought that may have been the problem but it's still leaking I'm going to jack the car up and let it run to see if that helps in locating the leak any ideas would be greatly appreciated



Thanks in advance,

Kadeem