One Piece Driveshaft Gains?

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DMN
Posts: 15
Joined: Fri May 16, 2008 6:00 pm
Car: 93 Vert (type x blacktop sr20det w/ t28)

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So I've been wondering what gains can be expected by switching to a one piece steel(15pds) or aluminum(10pds) drive shaft, Ive looked around forums but no definite answer on how pronounced they are. Anyone have any input or answers for me. Thanks!


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nifares240
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well to me, I get a better throttle response. plus, I don't have to worry of that stupid carrier bearing going out. break away launches becomes easier with them too. I am using a one piece steel by the way which weighs about 17 lbs.

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hilux30
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The reason I went with the shaftmasters aluminum is because no one could balance the stock two piece perfectly, it fixed my vibration issues big time. And the aluminum is much lighter which in theory would give you better response and more wheel HP. that’s why my old car (2003 Crown Vic police car) had one, for better high speed response (less rotating mass)Now if you planning insane power output (450+HP) and dragging the car then the one-piece steel would suite you better.

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driftin_sr20det
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Simply the best drivetrain investment you will ever make. That's the one part that has traveled between all the 240's I've owned haha. Couple that aluminum shaft with a lightweight flywheel plus a turbo Good Times!

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safin
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add light wheels too...drilled rotors...

are the z32 brakes heavier than the q45s?

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SirSilvia
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I'm going one piece steel in my build to save money, and i don't exactly know where I'll stop in the power department giggidy I don't wanna have to buy another later on if im going for moar powah

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homeslicej2
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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IRON Z32 calipers with rotors are heavierALUMINUM Z32 calipers with rotors are lighter

one-piece should be good for a little more power and torque transfer, better throttle response, etc. make sure you get a good one that is well balanced and please, have a driveshaft loop welded in. Aluminum shaft will handle high HP. IIRC the shaftmasters and driveshaft shop aluminum and steel driveshafts are both rated to 800HP.

DMN
Posts: 15
Joined: Fri May 16, 2008 6:00 pm
Car: 93 Vert (type x blacktop sr20det w/ t28)

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Well I happen to have a sr20det with a t28 on it pushing about 250whp atm, based on your experience think I can get a good chunk of the hp lost in the drivetrain back like 10-15? Really I'm trying to see how much hp I can get out of my sr20det without having to drop 1k on my injectors ecu and tune

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OutToWinPAHC
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15% 25% driveline loss on base numbers is normal on most vehicles. But it does not stay 15%. The rotational mass stays the same, but the power increases with mods.

You can shave weight with a lighter flywheel and upgraded balancer as well as a DS. But a 1 piece offers less joint play and better response if you notice it. Loosing the center bearing and 2 extra joints will loose some weight.

Although aluminum is much lighter, I stick to steel drive shafts and forged U joints. They take a better beating.

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WhiteKnight
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Location: South Bay-California

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Do the drilled or slotted rotors save enough weight to make a difference?

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breadbox
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nope, not in weight savings.

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killedbydeath
Posts: 82
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Car: Nissan 180SX

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Considering all brake components are unsprung weight, any savings on weight would be an advantage, but optimally if you went with the aluminum z32 calipers as well, youd see the most benefits from weight savings. Going with the cross drilled would be more of a heat dissipation and brake performance advantage over anything.

Aaand to keep it on topic, how do the aluminum driveshafts run for??



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