one of the benefits of having a messy garage and no memory

[themadscientist]

Haltech E8 order just placed.

[boost_boy]

Haltech E8 order just placed.

Smart move!

Dee

[Bwana]

Dang Mike, pure craziness man...

I like it.

[AWDB12wagon]

LOL, I know! I know! The TMS owes me big for my little discovery. But until we're sure everything is savvy, we're not gonna let the cat out of the bag....

It has to be anouther nissan crank, things like this have been done, not in the CA, but in the QG. Travis, Unlucky on http://www.sr20forum.com , put an SR20 crank in a QG25 and de-stroked it. Makes a sweet little high reving motor, w/o the crank being a piece of crap like the stock QG is. Once she's built, revving happy, I expect some updates!

[r34 gtr]

Yeah, I am going to need some info on what exactly is needed to retrofit this sweet-a$s full counterwieght crank into the bottom end of my little CA. I know its been done, but a full in-depth writeup is necessary. I'm gonna have to save it for when I nuke the bottom end on my motor though, as I dont have the time or funds to support this (though sweet) right now.

[Buddyworm]

I know I'm pretty new around here but you guys gotta hurry and figure this out. How close are you? The suspense is killing me.

[themadscientist]

I progress, that is all

[tnslide80]

nice find all i can find is my half done ca and a lack of cash and time.....keep us updated on this ca godzilla build... and u should tell all ur secrets!!!!

[themadscientist]

You don't want allmy secrets

[AWDB12wagon]

Take a toke, and cough up the info!

[float_6969]

I'll tell you when you bring back my valve spring compressor! LOL

[themadscientist]

Things continue to move forward. I have hit no obstacles that would trigger an abort yet. No worries. Just wish I had more money, this thing ain't going to be cheap

[themadscientist]

I am not using a CA18 block with my crank but I knew people would ask so I checked if it would work. In a word NOPE! I am not sure what issues if any people encounter when stroking with a CA20 crank but this sumbitch isn't going into a CA18 block without massive amounts of clearancing.The counterweights hit the pan rail webbing at about 30 degrees before and after TDCEven if you decided hacking away at these support structures was a good idea and the crank was able to swing a full 360 the minute you bolted the rods on you would be back to zero. The rods hit the bases of the cylindersSo you again start weakening the block more cutting out the clearance in the bottom of the cylinders. Oh wait, the CA18DET main cap girdle is now in the way, do not pass go, do not collect big stroke. How much clearance do you need? About this much!So yeah, I guess if you were hellbent to get the beast in there you could but IMO the extensive work required and the resulting weakening of the very foundation upon which the entire engine relies on to do seems pretty silly. If you want stroker CA18 use the CA20 crank and deal with those issues.

[Masterdebater]

what other block can u use tho? or is that confidential too =|

[themadscientist]

[themadscientist]

head is back from round 1 at the machine shop. I am using bigger than normal head bolts to secure the four port head on this sucker.

In order for the heads of the bigger bolts to make down into the pocket I had to have the pocket bored up.

The bigger bolt shanks also require the holes be enlarged and the step bore for the head dowels to be similarly punched up.

Enjoy

[AWDB12wagon]

Why not just use ARP?

[AWDB12wagon]

I'll tell you when you bring back my valve spring compressor! LOL

Just saw this! I will most likely be up there next thursday, what are you doing thursday? I'm gong to pick up my head from Prather Racing. Let me know bro!

[themadscientist]

because these are beefier for one. The CA18 uses M11 bolts, these are M12. The ARP studs are listed as "undercut". If this means the shank is stepped down at the threads for the nut then I would doubt they are really that much better than a stock CA18 head bolt.The more important reason is my block has M12 bolt holes so stock CA18 anything is too small. More thread contact area with the bigger bolt combined with increased head torque figures the bigger bolt allows nets me superior head sealing which is important. I will be running an 85mm bore so the meat between the cylinders is sparse, I need as much sealing force as possible.

[r34 gtr]

Are you having to get completely custom pistons? or does someone actually stock a forged slug for the ca20 block?

Whats the way you do it again? CA20 block and crank, dual cam ca18 head and crank girdle, rb crank timing gear, mitsu 4G rods, uh..anything im forgetting? I mean, Ive seen it done but its been a while.

[themadscientist]

If I were using a CA20 block. The pistons will be off the shelf forgies and the rods custom. I am trying to keep custom parts to a minimum.

[r34 gtr]

ah word. Forgot about that, and checking the previous page seemed like too much work at the time. My friend had to get custom CP pistons for his h22/f22 honda project and he said it was quite the pain to figure out exactly what he needed.

[themadscientist]

I have a nightmare where I drop 8 bills on custom rods and watch in terror as my pistons pop up out of the bore on the first spin around because my math challenged *** didn't carry the 1!

[Masterdebater]

ooh ouch carrying the 1...that one always gets u in the end... :/

[ca18datsun510]

fj?

[themadscientist]

If I could get a CA head to bolt onto an FJ I would have my brain bronzed.

[ca18datsun510]

you didnt say the crank and block are from the same source.

[themadscientist]

you didnt say the crank and block are from the same source.

sure didn't . The only part I have definitively identified is the four port CA18DET head.

[ragenasian]

This is killing them isn't it Mike HA HA

[themadscientist]

I must admit, I do enjoy the palpable frustration. It's almost as bad as the way I felt when I realized the rod was wrong.