One more Stance coilover question...

[nieko]

When i turn all the way left or all the way right it sounds like... not really sure, it almost sounds like springs popping or something but i watched them when my friend turned the wheel and they didnt budge or anything, im thinking and arm or a bushing or something? is it possible to go to low with stock arms and stuff? lol help

Edit: preload too much? or to less? im really
Modified by nieko at 11:26 PM 10/14/2007

[nieko]

bumpity bump bump!!!!

[nieko]

soooo desperate i dont like hearing random noises from my car..

[yokota180sx]

how much preload is on it?

Bakc it down, put 1cm of preload. see if it still does it. if it does you might jsut need some Spring silencers

they look liek this



but only since you screamed my namebut spell it wrong, next time you get a donkey punch

soooo desperate i dont like hearing random noises from my car..

[AceInhole]

You shouldn't need any preload at all. It sounds as though the spherical bearings (pillowballs) are binding.

[94_240sx]

You shouldn't need any preload at all. It sounds as though the spherical bearings (pillowballs) are binding.

That's it. Contact Stance and get a new pair.

[yokota180sx]

ios this a common problem with stance?i thought i heard something about it before?

preload is good, keeps your spring seat, and thats the only reason to run it.

[94_240sx]

Alright,Let me ask you guys this. Both of front wheels are up in the air, I turn the steering wheel and is this ball joint supposed to be turning? Cuz mine doesn't do that. As far as I know, that's why Stance coilovers are making noise when turning.



Yes, it's a common problem with Stance. There's 9 pages thread over z****.net.

[nieko]

mine seem to be rotating fine though.. i think i might have tightened the springs to much, or not enough. im gunna redo that and if it doesnt work then ill try the spring silencers and then ill call stance... or can i keep them on my car until the new ones get shipped? because ill do that right away then but im pretty sure its not the mounts... hmm

[AceInhole]

preload is good, keeps your spring seat, and thats the only reason to run it.

The only reason to run preload is to keep your piston and floater within the recommended operating range of the damper body. On rebound/ droop, if the damper itself can't retain the spring (i.e. keep it seated) while driving, then it's obvious it isn't valved well enough to control the spring.

[yokota180sx]

or you droop to much, you hit a big *** bump, spring comes unseated on the up stroke and sits sideways on the damper shearing the shaft

its happened to numerous people because they are dumb adn dont preload their springs.ive seen it first hand

[nieko]

i love how people always try to prove yokota wrong and then they get owned right back ahahah so ya im gunna redo the front done deal thanks you guys

[yokota180sx]

Nah

ACe is a knowledgable guy, ive read some of his ****

I mean, there really isnt a performance advantage to preloading, unless you have a progressive springrate...

i look at it as a safety function

[Clawhammer]

I have the GR+ Pros, got them back in Febuary...Stance told me to preload them so they don't click. I did...I don't click...except my rear passenger when I make a right hand turn over the gutter and up a small incline simultaneously turning into my apartment complex...usually if I'm going too fast and/or the weather is cooler. I know it sounds weird but those are the rare conditions that I hear it lol. I don't really know why I shared that story.

[AceInhole]

or you droop to much, you hit a big *** bump, spring comes unseated on the up stroke and sits sideways on the damper shearing the shaft

That's never happened to my D2's, even through such cities as Boston and NY. My Konis have about 2-3" of completely unloaded droop, and the car was well- composed (well, as good as it gets for 11kg springs up front) on NYC potholes.

I'd like to reiterate:

On rebound/ droop, if the damper itself can't retain the spring (i.e. keep it seated) while driving, then it's obvious it isn't valved well enough to control the spring.

I'd expect the spring to unseat if the rebound stack on the damper piston is blown, or if the gas charge is dying off. If your springs begin to unseat, take your dampers in for service. Most of the cheap coilovers on the market fill with normal schrader valves, or have a 1/8 NPT fill fitting that you can replace with a schrader. If that doesn't fix it, you need a major overhaul, which most companies remedy by sending you a new unit entirely (showing you how little the dampers are actually worth).

i love how people always try to prove yokota wrong and then they get owned right back

I stand corrected. I should have rephrased it: The only reason to run preload is to keep your piston and floater within the recommended operating range of the damper body or if your dampers are inadequate and blown.

Thanks for the correction.

[yokota180sx]

yeha most places are liek 150-175 replacement its horribleplus you have to understand (which im sure you do) that most coilovers these days ARENT vlaved correctly, contributing to problems such as this.granted ive always seen it on Tiens...but thats besides the pointthgere is a set of Ohlins for 1100 at upgarageBRAND NEW valved for 14k/12k

[AceInhole]

yeha most places are liek 150-175 replacement its horribleplus you have to understand (which im sure you do) that most coilovers these days ARENT vlaved correctly, contributing to problems such as this.

Oddly enough, the plots I've seen for the most part are underdamped low speed and overdamped high speed. They shouldn't be horrible, especially if they're holding their gas charge. When I was doing some last ditch testing on the D2's, they were ok at upwards of 180psi of N2, so it's feasible that small pressure leaks would eventually lead to damping being completely ineffective, where your springs would unseat.

The big thing I'd want to avoid is the damper's droop limiter topping out against the shaft seals. The more you preload, the higher the chance you have of doing this. If you're admitting you hit your droop limiter often (the spring getting nearly unseated), you might want to be a bit more careful, as you're basically jackhammering the top of your damper body.

Quote »granted ive always seen it on Tiens...but thats besides the pointthgere is a set of Ohlins for 1100 at upgarageBRAND NEW valved for 14k/12k[/quote]One thing to be wary of is that Ohlins did a run with a Japanese manufacturer a while ago, then basically stopped and pulled out. It's questionable whether the JDM Ohlins are actually up to par with "original" Ohlins dampers, and even then, Ohlins itself has a "cheaper" line. I'm not sure how much of it is true.... but just food for thought.