one more brake thread- pads - rotors - 300z calibers

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jamesmost
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r the 300z brakes better or just a trade off and cheaper parts?

anyone using the many different rotors from ebay ? like?

slotted or crossdrilled ?

Brembo blanks ?

Anyone using Hawk pads? like ?


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elwesso
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Sort of both.. I went to the Z calipers because theyre easier to find parts, and parts are cheaper. My braking seems to be better.

IM running 30mm Z calipers, hawk HPS pads, brembo blanks, 240 conversion lines.

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Jeff Williams
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I went to the 300z rotors, because I wanted them to look cool.

Braking is about the same, or a little better. Brake fade should be less with the beefier rotors and vented rears. I haven't been to a track to check.

Be careful about wheel offset with the fronts. I had to grind off a good bit of the calipers, and add a 2 MM spacer.

I added the INFINITI stickers, and they look cool.

I have bought a bunch of rotors off of eBay. You get what you pay for, and sometimes get ripped off. The last set I bougth of drilled and slotted rotors warped relatively fast, and are a bit more noisy than the last set.

If you can believe me, I think the curved slots are quieter than the straight slots. It could be a characteristic of the size of the slots and number of holes drilled in it.

I really like the zinc coating. It has been much better than painting.

Wolf44
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elwesso wrote:Sort of both.. I went to the Z calipers because theyre easier to find parts, and parts are cheaper. My braking seems to be better.

IM running 30mm Z calipers, hawk HPS pads, brembo blanks, 240 conversion lines.
Hi, I'm looking at the Hawk brake pads for my '92 Q. I'm going to get the powerslot rotors and wanted good resonably priced pads. My question is the Hawk pads are advertised as 94' an up. Are these suitable for the 92'? I thought I read it in one of these threads but I couldn't find it. Thanks. I should have some pics up in a few weeks. I got it running now I just need new struts n plugs. I have a intake and supercharger on the way and thius brake upgrade ought to really help. One other question I was wondering is how big of wheels can you put on the original G50 without any mods? I'm looking at a pair of 20"s. Thanks
Modified by Wolf44 at 7:12 PM 2/16/2007

maxnix
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20's are overkill. Look at the tire first, and then work backwards to the wheel.

Even with PowerSlots (not to be confused with Power Stop), OEM pads are the best if you are not tracking or other wise using them heavily, like mountain descents.

Be sure you get the ones with the sensors if you want to maintain that function.

OEM from http://www.infinitipartsusa.com and give them your VIN when you order.

Final caution: Many internet brake dealers sell non-genuine Chinese rip offs. Know with whom you are dealing.

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elwesso
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Honestly if you dont mind paying more than OEM, then the hawks are nice... They are basically just like the OEM pads in terms that they are quiet and smooth, but they bite like hell, especially when you warm up a tiny bit...

OEM are like $40/axle and hawks are like $70... Joe sells both, and incidentally Joe has the best prices on the internet for hawk pads (I priced it otu and he beat anyones price by $10)

The OEM pads are best for most users (IE you dont ever track the car), however if you ever encounter a situation where you brake heavily a few times in a short period of time, then youll want something that doesnt fade so fast.... Basically with the OEM pads you get about 2 stops from 80-0 back to back and theyre worthless after that....... you have to let them cool down for a while after that. To translate that, theyre about done after a hard auto-X run... Im pretty sure I ran OEM pads on my Z calipers when I ran the Q in auto X last year.

I agree with Brian though..... If you dont encounter any heavy braking for extended periods of time, then its kinda pointless to get the hawk pads...

Wolf44
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elwesso wrote:Honestly if you dont mind paying more than OEM, then the hawks are nice... They are basically just like the OEM pads in terms that they are quiet and smooth, but they bite like hell, especially when you warm up a tiny bit...

OEM are like $40/axle and hawks are like $70... Joe sells both, and incidentally Joe has the best prices on the internet for hawk pads (I priced it otu and he beat anyones price by $10)

The OEM pads are best for most users (IE you dont ever track the car), however if you ever encounter a situation where you brake heavily a few times in a short period of time, then youll want something that doesnt fade so fast.... Basically with the OEM pads you get about 2 stops from 80-0 back to back and theyre worthless after that....... you have to let them cool down for a while after that. To translate that, theyre about done after a hard auto-X run... Im pretty sure I ran OEM pads on my Z calipers when I ran the Q in auto X last year.

I agree with Brian though..... If you dont encounter any heavy braking for extended periods of time, then its kinda pointless to get the hawk pads...
Thanks guys for the info. I live in the virginia mnts. so I do alot of mnt. descents. I think I'll go ahead and get the hawks. I also ordered a transmission cooler yesterday and my struts should arrive in a few days. I'm really looking forward to getting my Q up and running smoothly. Thanks again for your assistance!

Q45tech
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Be careful in cold weather because the better the pads work in heat the worse thay stop when cold...............often takes some getting use to, to drive safely in the first 10 minutes after a very cold crank until you warm everything up.

The first few stops of the day can be dramatic, much less an emergency deceleration.

maxnix
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Wolf44 wrote:Thanks guys for the info. I live in the virginia mnts. so I do alot of mnt. descents.
Use DOT4 then also.
Modified by maxnix at 7:56 AM 2/19/2007

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bullittandy
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Q45tech wrote:Be careful in cold weather because the better the pads work in heat the worse thay stop when cold...............often takes some getting use to, to drive safely in the first 10 minutes after a very cold crank until you warm everything up.

The first few stops of the day can be dramatic, much less an emergency deceleration.
This is very true! I installed Hawk pads on my 91 mustang and bled the brakes twice because the pedal was soft. Then after braking the pads in, I drove it HARD and the difference between cold Hawk pads and hot Hawk pads was satanic. When hot the hawk pads locked the brakes almost too easily. Now when I drive, I make two quick stops immediately to heat the pads. On a daily driver this would be annoying though.

Q45tech
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Brake pads are just like a seesaw...........balanced temperaturewise or NOT.

maxnix
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bullittandy wrote:I installed Hawk pads on my 91 mustang and bled the brakes twice because the pedal was soft. Then after braking the pads in, I drove it HARD and the difference between cold Hawk pads and hot Hawk pads was satanic. When hot the hawk pads locked the brakes almost too easily. Now when I drive, I make two quick stops immediately to heat the pads. On a daily driver this would be annoying though.
Why OEM pads are encouraged for everyday driving. One five mile jaunt done the freeway and the pads and rotors are cool again.


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