Looks like you modified the manifold... did you reweld the flange? could you take a couple more pictures?

Is that a cast manifold you're welding the new flange on? Tricky welding cast...can be done, just tricky. I've welded cracks etc, just never something like a flange. I've seen some muggy weld sticks used with pretty good results however.

I don't know anyone that has gotten the Emanage Blue w/ timing control running well. I'll be very interested to see your results

You can weld, so you can probably use a torch. For the downpipe, I was going to use 3" stainless flex pipe from Mcmaster. You can solder/braze the flex pipe onto standard pipe connected to whatever flanges you need on both ends. I've used the galvi version of this on my K5 for years. The galvi did rust, but it's been on and working with no leaks etc for 6 years now.

Mcmaster P/N is 5242K55, stainless 304, heavy weight .029 thick. Just an idea.

WDRacing wrote:Is that a cast manifold you're welding the new flange on? Tricky welding cast...can be done, just tricky. I've welded cracks etc, just never something like a flange. I've seen some muggy weld sticks used with pretty good results however.

I don't know anyone that has gotten the Emanage Blue w/ timing control running well. I'll be very interested to see your results

You can weld, so you can probably use a torch. For the downpipe, I was going to use 3" stainless flex pipe from Mcmaster. You can solder/braze the flex pipe onto standard pipe connected to whatever flanges you need on both ends. I've used the galvi version of this on my K5 for years. The galvi did rust, but it's been on and working with no leaks etc for 6 years now.

Mcmaster P/N is 5242K55, stainless 304, heavy weight .029 thick. Just an idea.

I dont think i have ever properly welded something on my car as far as manifolds go and so far i haven't had a problem (knock on wood). I used the the flanges off the cast manifold and welded them to 309SS ELS with mild wire and they didn't crack. I figure i'll heat up the manifold in the over to a couple hundred degrees then take it to the garage and weld it (using ER70-s2 wire) then put it back in the oven to cool down slowly for a couple hours just in case. I hear the more critical part of welding cast is it needs to cool down slowly. I'll be making the DP out of probably 10 pie cuts .

Today i got my cold pipe and turbo intake tacked together. I would have gotten more done but, the blade on my Band Saw broke. I'm going to need a lot of pie cuts for the down pipe. Not much left to do other than place the bov until this weekend when there is a sale the HF so i can get a new blade for cheap. :lol:

Romeo_rus wrote:Looks like you modified the manifold... did you reweld the flange? could you take a couple more pictures?

Flux core tacks FTL

Today i after installing the DE engine harness and ecu i keyed the car to the run position and dont hear the fuel pump prime. Next i look at my emanage and it did not turn on either. Since the emanage gets it power from the ecu i figure the ecu is not turning on. So i go ahead and throw a volt meter and check voltage at the emanage connector and nothing is there. Black wire with white strip (terminal 47 on ecu connector). Next i move to the engine bay and check the grey connector located near the batter tray (where the ecu gets its power). On the grey connector there is "ecu back up power" and it shows battery voltage, "ignition switch" has battery voltage, and "ecu power" (black wire with white stripe) and it does not show any voltage. I dont see what could have caused this and now i am in the dark as far as figuring out why i dont have any power on that wire. Any one have this problem or could point me in the correct direction for what my next step should be?

Thanks,
-Nelson

Here is a pinout so you can follow me with what i'm doing. So i go through the ecu connector checking for power and grounds. Pins 109, 46,38 all have power and pins 48 and 39 are good grounds. Next i checked pin 4 (controls the eccs relay which powers pin 47 and my emanage) and it is showing open on the ohm meter with the key on. So the ecu is not grounding it to power the relay which powers pin 47. I figure the 12v ign switch singnal (pin 36) tells the ecu to ground the relay in order to power the ecu but, that pin is showing power. Maybe the ecu is bad so i swap ecu's and still have no luck. Next i strip the wire on pin 4 and using a test wire ground it out. Success, the ecu powers up and the emanage turns on. So i do a short victory dance and figure i'll just throw a switch on that wire and power on the ecu and emanage myself. I go and pull the test wire off but, the ecu and emanage and still on ....wtf. Maybe they take a second to shut off by 5 minutes later they are still on. Not sure why but, maybe the relay is stuck. I pull the relay and they both shut off. I do it again and the same thing happens. Not sure why but, one i ground pin 4 they stay on until i pull the relay. So now i'm going to have to put in a seperate relay to bypass the weird nissan eccs relay. I also noticed that the fuel pump is still not priming when i key the car on. Another ecu controlled relay that is not getting grounded out when it should. These are some weird problems and all of a sudden i'm starting to feel ok with leaving this car sitting for another year before i finish her .

I guess on the bright side the emange works and i got it to communicate with my laptop. I think working on the car this past week helped a few white hairs pop up on my head
....what to do what to do....

-Nelson

wow like the turbo manifold mod. probably going to try that for myself. good luck with the build

still haven't figured out the electrical issue but, i got a different egay manifold that better places the turbo. Also finished the DP and remade the hot pipe. Car is getting closer to finished as far as fabricating is concerned but, i still have that electrical gremlin hanging over my head to deal with. Here are a few pics:







Today i got a flex upper radiator hose (installed), put the catch can / pcv system back in, and put the turbo intake and bov recirc in. If i can keep putting around 5 hours of work a day in on her i should have her finished minus electrical trouble shooting by this weekend. Might just jump the relay to power the ecu in order to attempt a 1st start next week. October 3 was the day she was put up on jack stands last year so maybe she'll be back on her feet before the one year mark.

Today I got the fuel pump wired up to a switch, installed the DE throttle cable, and hooked up random connectors (mafs, dizzy, etc.). I hooked up the emanage and noticed that when opening the throttle it goes from 0% directly to 100%. I went and looked at the tps and I only have the connector with the pig tail that comes off the tps hooked up. The small connector on the side is not connected to anything. I looked at a wiring diagram and only found that one connector that i already have hooked up. Does the other one get used? Where does it tie into (sub harness)?



-Nelson

I'm guessing it's a TPS from an automatic car.
I believe cars with auto trannies came with 2 connectors there.

ok, on the sohc you use both connectors whether its an auto or manual. Wonder why the emanage reads as the throttle going from 0-100% the second you touch it? Damn, if its not one thing its another. I know one of those connectors works as a on/off switch to tell the ecu when the TB is closed and idling. Might have to wire up the other connector if that turns out to be the potentiometer....I'll go back and check the wiring for the emanage tomorrow. Weird thing is today when i was messing with it, the ecu powered on when i turned the key on like its supposed to a couple times but, when you turn the car off it didn't power down. With this engine the car's personality has defintally changed from a trouble free car to a cruel car. Going to have to rename her i guess......I'm thinking Laura

-Nelson

Edit: After working on it today.....I hate cars , might have to take tomorrow off from working on her

what are you using for ignition signal with the ms, 2 local guys are running it, one had a custom trigger wheel made, the other is using a first gen eclipse dizzy(direct bolt in to ka24de) . Not sure of the succes/failure rate they are having. I strayed away from ms back in the early ms1 days due to complete lack of knowledge from the guys who sold it.

Lotta issues with MS, at least I hear about more problems then I do success. I hear about ignition stuff mostly, something about the Nissan CAS or Dizzy that blows. I heard a remedy was using a Ford EIDS?...as weak as that info is...it's about all I have. I read into the MS a long time ago, but decided it wasn't for me.

yeah....not for anyone if your not an electronics expert. They guys at DIY were real help full answering questions up until i bought the unit. Then i got hung out to dry. Posted my question on the MS forums and got 60+ views with no replies. Running a stock ecu and greddy emanage blue at the moment. The MS is just a expensive paper weight thats 90% complete

I hear good things from guys that have converted Chevy V8's from carb to EFI. But that's about it.

Have the ignition side of the Emanage? I would use The Ultimate version. I was interested in that back when it came out.

exactly what I did wd, lol I was all ready to buy but couldnt get any info about ignition. They could tell me about fuel for days and would try to sway the conversation back that way. it sucked. I went with nothing for a bit(well a walbro and a afpr), then afpr and sohc ecu conversion, fmu was the easy sex. safcII now sucks but gets it done. yeah


from my understanding the ms loves old out of date ignition, but nissan being the smart japanese doods have a decent ignition system just not adjustable...well consult but you could get an ems for that... One of the guys local is actually in school for electronics/engineering. I am too stupid to deal with my.

Well she is finally off the jack stands (will get pics soon). I tried to put coolant in her and found a pin hole in the lower radiator hose...FML. So i went and got a new one earlier this week and tried again. I had more than a gallon in when the WP started leaking from the weap hole....fail and fml. I had another one laying around from a different engine so i went ahead and cleaned it up and painted it. Installed it and once again it started leaking from the weap hold....... I have no words ....I think this car just wants to be left in the garage under the cover. Once i find a job i'll go ahead and get a new water pump.

Should have stuck with the single cam.....what was i thinking

-Nelson

nelson8708 wrote: So i went and got a new one earlier this week and tried again. I had more than a gallon in when the WP started leaking from the weap hole....fail and fml. I had another one laying around from a different engine so i went ahead and cleaned it up and painted it. Installed it and once again it started leaking from the weap hold.......

-Nelson

i know how you feel. my first 240 (a 1989 s13) i bought for 650 looking like s***. didnt have a head on it and most of the bolts were missing. i was 18 when i bought it. took me about 4 months to get it back together to where it would run. i went to put gas in it and got about 2 gallons in and reaized it was leaking all over the floor.. s***! so i looked under it and figured it was a rusted tank. went to the wrecking yard and found another. it had a HUGE hole punched in it to drain the gas. so i bought that for 75!! then got home welded up the hole, drove 30 min to where the car was, pulled the tank and found out that it had a small hole drilled in it... talk about FML it would have been way easier to weld that hole lol. then when i got it running, i didnt realize it till right before i sold it, but i had the No. 2 an No.3 plug wires backwards. so it ran like crap. huge lesson learned there.

/story
/thread jack

Went out and worked on the car today since it was warm (32 degres ) today. Put my new water pump on, and threw some lock tite on the set screws that hold the valve in the wastegate. For some reason i got the feeling that she is ready to be ripped on this summer. She has rested long enough. All the mechanical stuff is done, once i get the electrical problem figured out its GAME ON ... I plan on going and picking up a new relay and hard wiring the eccs relay to a switch this way i can just bypass where ever the problem may lie. After that i need to figure out why when watching sensor parameters through the emanage the tps goes straight from 0% to 100% the second you touch the throttle????? I'm so ready for this crap to be over with and enjoy the car again. Haven't driven a stick in 15 months ...At the same time i'm helping a friend build his rb25 s14 and another build his LS crx. I'm the only ka-t in the area....gotta represent

pignose fo lyfe my nizzle happy new year.


the car is looking awesome.

I mounted the seat i picked up yesterday. I traded my stock passenger seat for it + cash, so for now any passenger i have with be sitting in the back but, they will have tons of leg room. Since i had an extra harness i threw it on the back seat.








^

Ooo.
Corbeau FX1?

I actually thought about buying one, but decided to just go with 350z seats.

Nice passenger harness. :P

Razi wrote:Ooo.
Corbeau FX1?

I actually thought about buying one, but decided to just go with 350z seats.

Nice passenger harness. :P

FX1 pro, just a smaller seat than the FX1 so it holds me better.

P.S.
Getting a new steering wheel.

Yay!

What wheel are you thinking of buying?

not sure yet, just tired of looking at the one i have on there. Probably going to pick up a cheap deep dish and paint it flat black. lol

I could have swore i calibrated the tps on the emanage but, as it turns out i did not. Glad that was the problems so now she's ready for an attempted start. I haven't tried to crank her over yet and wont until we get a 50 degree day here in indy so probably the end of march is when i try to start her up. Pretty excited, i spent an hour or so messing with the emanage and found it has some nice features on it and is easy to navigate. No sure why everyone hates on it so much. Hopefully everything goes good when the time comes....


^here is a crappy cell pic of the wheel i picked up, cheap egay wheel with a little wrinkle paint on it and the nismo center piece i made from the old wheel

I pulled my rear fenders a bit yesterday. I got one side done clean but, the paint cracked on the other side. Dont roll fenders when its 30 degrees in the garage, even with a heat gun on it. If it were summer time i could just roll the car out side and do it in the sun light. Black paint + sunny day = 150 degree fenders

Bummer on the cracked paint.

I was kind of worried because i went looking and no one said the z33 PP fits a d21 flywheel. Guess i read it wrong and jumped on a deal for the z33 PP with out double checking where i got the info. Well, I lucked out on this one because i went to advance today and the z33 PP fits the d21 flywheel. So now you can run the 250mm clutch on the d21 FW. You cant use the advance (perfection) FW because there is a groove just outside of the 240mm clutch disc, so with the 250mm disc it would ride on the groove. The autozone flywheel doesn't have this groove so it should work fine.

Add the z33 clutch to the list clutch setups that works with the d21 FW

some times its nice to have a nissan : )

Nice!

Yeah, it's nice having interchangeability!

hmm, so I can bolt a z33 clutch to my autozone fw, sweeeeeeeeeeeeet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
well now I have an upgrade from the d21 stocker. I bet the z33 has a much beefier clamp load than the d21.