okay guys what am i forgetting

[EazyBreazy]

these are my plans so far, i'm trying to finalize my spread sheet. once that is finalized, i will begin purchasing parts. my goal is around 250-300 daily, my block is tired, w/ 170,000+ miles on it so thats why i'm doing the rebuild. the reason i'm not going forged on the pistons and rods is that i cannot afford to go crazy. if i have an engine capable of handling alot more power i will try to us it all, eventually breaking it. broken car=not good when going to college. the car will be used for autox and drifting. if you experts see anything i've missed, or notice any weakpoints in what i've got so far please let me know. i get out of the marine corp in december and want this to be done by the first of november. Also with what i have so far, i believe it would be possible to complete this for under 5000 dollars installed with all the bugs worked out.

BLOCKwill be rebuilt with stock internals, arp studs, cleavite bearings, new oil pump, cometic h/g, felpro s14 gasket set, complete timing rebuild, new water pump and t-statFUEL300zx maf, 550cc injectors, walbro 255 fuel pumpTURBOjgs precision turbo kit (50 trim t3/t04e .48.... i want the response., hks(or similar ebay item, cant get on ebay to price at work) sr20det downpipe, ebay intercooler/piping (i have access to tig welding, and military experts on it)ELECTRONICSaem gaugetype uego wideband controler, used electronic boost controller, oil pressure and oil temperature gauges(probly autometer) enthalpy tune ecu w/ harness for s14CLUTCHsuggestions pleasestock flywheel

[KATwo40]

Two things:

.48 A/R turbine housing is too small for 300whp. At least step up to something along the lines of a .63 A/R. You'll reach full boost by around 3700rpm (maybe less) and it won't choke out in the upper rpm range. The smaller turbine housing will promote increased EGT's and reversion, resulting in a higher probability to detonate and a reduction in actual VE. Also, spooling the T04E compressor too quickly will result in compressor surge under load (bad for thrust bearing).

The SR20DET downpipes I've seen are made for the T2 turbo series and won't work on your T3. You'll likely have to custom make one, unless I'm just unaware of any T3 pipes made for the SR.

The rest looks good.

[Florida240sx]

I would at least get arias 8.8 pistons. What I got on my rebuild, along with bearings,hg and cams Glad your getting enth tune. You shouldn't have to worry about the wideband So that's $300 you can spend on supporting mods like lsd/tires/suspension. What's point of power if you can't keep traction???

[EazyBreazy]

KATWO40- I'll take into account the turbo, but i was looking for full boost closer to the 3k rpm range. I'm willing to sacrifice a little of the peak hp and deal with some top end fall off for instantaneous response. Also the jgs turbo kit recomends an sr downpipe, although it comes with one. i'm assuming they mean that i need something to connect my jgs downpipe to my cat.

florida- i want the wideband because in the future i may get an afc to tweak the tune more (read future as after i finish college). the suspension is take care of. I'm putting all this stuff on when i get back to the states. I always make my car handle and stop before i even think of adding power.

Kazama Tension RodsNismo Power BraceKTS Tie Rod Ends/ Tein Inner Tie RodsTie Rod Dust BootTanabe Drift Spec Sway Bar (Front)Nismo Power Steering BushingsTanabe Drift Spec Sway Bar (Rear)Performance Nissan Parts 5-lug Conversion kitRear Upper Camber ArmSPL Pro Rear Traction RodsSPL Pro Rear Toe ArmsNismo S14 rear toe arm bushingNismo S14 Rear Upper Spindle BushingsHawk HP plus brake Padsspl braided s14 z32 conversion linesz32 front rotors/ s14 5 lug rear rotorsBrake pad shimsCaliper rebuild kitdc sports carbon steel strut tower braceKTS COILOVERS5 Zigen FN01R-C 17*9 +15 (Black with Polished lip)Goodyear Eagle F1GS D3 235/45YR17SPL Front Fender BraceSPL Pro Aluminum Rear Subframe Bushings

[Florida240sx]

It would be better to go to a dyno and get a baseline test run. See what your a/f and get numbers. Because by running around with the wideband you'll burn up the sensor. If your not going to be using it to tune then you shouldn't have it hooked up, unless you don't mind buying a new o2 sensor for it. Your choice not mine. As for clutches I got the rps 400ftlb and I love it.

[Bosrudorfer]

Two things:

.48 A/R turbine housing is too small for 300whp. At least step up to something along the lines of a .63 A/R. You'll reach full boost by around 3700rpm (maybe less) and it won't choke out in the upper rpm range. The smaller turbine housing will promote increased EGT's and reversion, resulting in a higher probability to detonate and a reduction in actual VE. Also, spooling the T04E compressor too quickly will result in compressor surge under load (bad for thrust bearing).

That answered a question I have been throwing around in my mind. THANK YOU! I just ordered the kit last week with .48 and have most of the kit. I got SR 370CC injectors with SR MAF which both max out at around 250rwhp and I am shooting for 230rwhp.

I've been thinking of going to 480cc injectors and a Z32 MAF for 300rwhp or more but thought it would be more than I could handle plus 230rwhp is plenty.

I'm more interested in torque that raw horsepower. That post added to the side that going for 230rwhp is the correct choise

[Bosrudorfer]

I dont want to thread jack but what do you guys think about my soon to be setup?

FUEL--------------SR MAF, SR 370cc injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump

TURBO--------------JGS precision turbo kit (50 trim t3/t04e .48), SR BOV, FMIC with custom made piping, 3" SR downpipe, 3" catback exhuast

ELECTRONICS--------------SAFC-II

[KATwo40]

Should do just fine.

[torque2go]

when changing the maf to a sr or a 300zxxtt... all you need is to change your in/out settings on the s-afc? is it 1 in 6out for zx maf? im just looking for clarification, thanks