ok, today we set out on our mission, to get the car to run and not sputter or backfire and not give up on use when warmed up .... part one test the TPS,all ground resistance to see if bad, change coolant temp sensor, again..... tore off the timming covers and water pump pulley, check to make sure the timing at the crank and cams was infact correct and not fuked up ... the shop this motor came from was that bad!!!the timming was on the mark... warmed up car set timming to 19-20deg advance... has crap for low end,... it barely wants to move till you get it into turbo spool territory, doesnt have any torque doesnt want to spinn the wheels.. we drove it around some got some wire connectors and various other crap to clean up the install.. got the car back into the garage.. and proceeded to rewire the O2 senor, correctly this time... also wired up the AF correctly ... rewired the EGT gauge with better grade thermo wiire and connectors... put in my manuall boost controler.. gapped plugs down to 32.. from 39-40 they were at... the car was running pretty good... the AF reads that its lean.. but i think the gauge has a ground loop and is being infected .. every time you mess with somthing that puts load on the electrical system the gauge changes up....EGTs are staying around 1250F-higher 1300F deg , under full throttle and boost... which is a very big improve ment over the other night when i retarded the timming back to the stock 15deg btdc.. so now i think its on to the fun and scary part, tuning!!
there are a few things i need to know before i go any further, and this is where you guys with actuall on hand experiance with these motors should chime in!!! TMS, boostboy, anyone else....
ok 1) im at 20deg advanced .. is it possibly safe to keep goin say to 23-25 degs???
2) whats a good gap to run when pushing 10psiwill 28 work??
3) on the MAF there is a plug to alter AF mixture.. had anyone tryed to use this to richen or lean out the car??which way is which??? we spun it 360o and it seemd to help alil but we dont know which it did lean or richen?
4) we couldnt get the idle down... has anyone taken the AAC valve apart?? is there a spring that goes to it??also the ficd thing does that make a click when unpluggin and plugging it back in? this idle gremlin had me strugglin
5) anyone know if the wrong tps for the car can cause bad throttle response or power reponse down low ... i dont think this is the right TPS the ohm measurements didnt match to the FSM specs!!
thats all i can think of right now ill just post more as i think about it all...
jon
ok this time the beast ran.. now read ahead!!
2)28 will work but i wouldn't think it would be necessary to go down that far. If you had it at 32 i would think that would be just fine.
3) I didn't know the CA's MAF sensor had this type of screw and in fact i had only known these type of screws to be on flap type air flow meters but then again i won't get my CA for another week so i haven't seen it yet. Anyway, the screw is an air bypass screw, you loosen it and you let more air go past the sensor w/o being monitored (leans out) Tighten it and less air goes unchecked (runs richer) This won't change your air fuel ratio drastically but you can do a little.
As far as the rest of your questions go...not sure on them yet. Glad to hear things are coming together for you though.
3) I didn't know the CA's MAF sensor had this type of screw and in fact i had only known these type of screws to be on flap type air flow meters but then again i won't get my CA for another week so i haven't seen it yet. Anyway, the screw is an air bypass screw, you loosen it and you let more air go past the sensor w/o being monitored (leans out) Tighten it and less air goes unchecked (runs richer) This won't change your air fuel ratio drastically but you can do a little.
As far as the rest of your questions go...not sure on them yet. Glad to hear things are coming together for you though.
A TPS from from a different car will not work correctly, if it's not using the same ohm range (cause the Ohm measurements for a certain point will be different and therefore useless).Maybe yours is f_cked up and that's why the measurements are not within the FSM specs.About the sparkplug gap i run 0.9mm (0.036) at 0.9bar (13psi)and i'm ok with this setup, and i don't think it makes a lot of sense to gap it even more with less boost.Don't know about the MAF, atleast the EUROmodels don't have a srew there(but they also only have a 3 wire plug compared to the j-spec 4wire plug).AAC valve has a spring inside, and normally the aac valve should make a clicking noise when disconnecting not the FICD (maybe you are mistaking the AAC for the FICD, just a thought)
oh, i just rememberd my one other "MINOR" LOL problemnmy oil was over filled by about 1-1.5 or 2 quarts and run for about 2miles at the most with out really pushing it.... well now the oil is leaking on oil filter side.. some where near the oil pressure switch or filter area or around the pan... does the Ca have a oil pressure bleed off valve that bleeds off extra oil .. or did i blow out the pressure switch and not its leaky .. or did i ruin the pan gasket???? any ideas or help is welcome guys.!!!
Jon
Jon
Anyway, what kind of oil and how much should you use in one of these?-
boost_boy
- Posts: 7051
- Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 7:28 am
- Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
- Location: Miami, FL.
- Contact:
Quote »im at 20deg advanced .. is it possibly safe to keep goin say to 23-25 degs??? [/quote] No! You'll eventually start experiencing slight detonation which will be detected by the knock sensor and ecu thus causing yo to lose power out right. Quote »2) whats a good gap to run when pushing 10psi[/quote] I gap my plugs at 20, but 30 is good as well.Quote »3) on the MAF there is a plug to alter AF mixture.. had anyone tryed to use this to richen or lean out the car??[/quote] I wouldn't screw with any plug or screwing device on your AFM to try and make your car run better. you obviously have a serious problem elsewhere and are asking for more trouble by screwing with that adjustment device. Man, I would answer the other questions, but you just sound like you have a freakin mess. Has the harness been wacked up before? Your IACV or Idle Air Control Valve maybe stuck and my cause some of your problems. But if it's hooked up wrong (which is possible), you will experience some problems. I'm pretty much concerned with your electrical installation as I'm 110% that your problem is within that engine harness and not the external parts.
boost boy, i fear you are correct about my problemns being in my harness .. but it will probably be easier and cheaper for me to go standalone or to just get a whole new harness from japan then to break open this one and start fooling with it... what would you say is a safe timming advance 20 like i haev it at ?? and the MAF screw look like its been fooled with ,before i got the motor.. which i say scares me... this motor was so screwed the shop it was at had no clue how to work on cars! ive heard more then my horror story from people who had work done there...
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boost_boy
- Posts: 7051
- Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 7:28 am
- Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
- Location: Miami, FL.
- Contact:
Change the harness, dump the maf and 20 degree of timing at idle is really bad for the CA18DET. If you got 20 degrees at idle, imagine where your total timing's going to end up upon acceleration. And besides that, I have learned that the CA18DET does not like too much timing or it starts losing power and that's not cool! Like i said, you have my worst nightmare and the last customer that brought me something like that that another shop did for him, ended up with an SDS system and I haven't heard from since we exchanged keys and instructions for money!
well at 15 deg timmin my EGT are way high and the car runs like **** when warm!! i may try backing it down to 18 deg.... but Paul(MV240)told me 20deg is what the motor likes being run at.. 20 deg and my car is idling at 1300rpm and i have no control over idle due to broken AAC , and right now im stuck at home since my other 240 deid and my mom took her car and basicly said go F your self when it came to me taking it to go pick up mine !! and yet shes yellin at me to get my cars running !!! AHHH its alredy a bad day!!
The timing should be 15 BTDC, and the screw on the afm is the idle mixture control, if your EGT's are high then check all the vacuum pipes to the fuel pressure regulator, basically ditch the enrichment valve and plumb the FPR straight into the manifold, this will richen up the mix across the whole rev range.
paul_s13 wrote:The timing should be 15 BTDC, and the screw on the afm is the idle mixture control, if your EGT's are high then check all the vacuum pipes to the fuel pressure regulator, basically ditch the enrichment valve and plumb the FPR straight into the manifold, this will richen up the mix across the whole rev range.
Also check the det sensor and ecu temp sensor.
The TPS should be at 1ohm when closed and 9ohms when fully open, and check for continuity for the idle switch.
i have the FPR directly connnected to the manifold!! my EGTs arent really that high at 20deg BTDC they run around 1400F at WOT under fullboost! sorry dont know the C conversion and they are at 1025-1250F deg at normal crusing.. the screw on the MAF, which way is lean which way is rich???? i need to put it back to stock!?! i think the DET sensor is bad but i cant find one for the car anyone have a part number for the USDM part>?on the TPS i get 1ohm closed and only 7.54 when fully opend.. i also have to solve my oil leak after a over filling any one have a guess what might be leaking the oilpressure switch the filter assembly ???