ok, i just lowered my y33. what do i need to do for front and rear alignment????

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antbo
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just like the topic says. what should i specify at an alignment shop??? the rear toe is crazy lookin, do i get that straightened out for more tire life..etc?? and can someone refer me to an alignment shop that specializes in these type of situations in san diego?? thanks


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Q_SHIP
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Rear tow? Or do you mean camber?

If it is camber, not a whole lot can be done on a Y33. But the tires suprisingly don't wear that bad like that.

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When you lower [or just from age impact stress] it is frequently necessary to replace suspension arms [squished bushings] or use aftermarket adjustable specialty arms.

The costs of lowering is not just for the springs and shocks.............but for all the suspension parts you must design.

Most people lower for looks so they skip the handling tire wear issues that come from lowering.

When I see a lower vehicle I almost always know the owner could care less about functionality.

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elwesso
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rear camber can be tweaked a little.. Main thing you need readjusted is the toe (which is a normal alignment). An extra degree of camber with the SAME toe angle (adjusted) wont wear tires. Its when lowering the car that increases camber AND toe that causes it.

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Falkdesigns
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They should be able to adjust everything to perfect except camber, which will be negative, but I'm pretty sure you want that anyhow.

I'm not sure if Auto Fashion has an install shop, but if they don't I'm sure they can point you to an alignment shop that deals with lowered cars.

I missed the other replies. Yes, you CAN lower a car, and ride with negative camber without killing your tires. My tires have just over 1 year and the wear is even all the way across, and I've got about -2 degrees in front, and close to -3 in the back. Toe and Caster are most important.

Qproject
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what exactly is "TOE" ? I understand that "camber" is the angle at which the wheels-tires fall in or out.

but what exacty does "toe" involve? is it how "left" or how "right" the wheels-tire end up turning ?
elwesso wrote:rear camber can be tweaked a little.. Main thing you need readjusted is the toe (which is a normal alignment). An extra degree of camber with the SAME toe angle (adjusted) wont wear tires. Its when lowering the car that increases camber AND toe that causes it.

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Falkdesigns
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Toe is like if you have duck feet, your feet are parallel, or your toes point in towards each other.

Qproject
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nice

what about "caster" ?
Falkdesigns wrote:Toe is like if you have duck feet, your feet are parallel, or your toes point in towards each other.

antbo
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thanks for the advice guys. i was trippin out when i saw the toe all contarted looking. i guys its nice to know that even though i have camber, its not so bad on the wear, but i def gotta fix the toe. ill try to post pics of my car, its just TOO dirty. i got a wash it first.

so toe and caster, should i specify what i want???

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Falkdesigns
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No, just tell them to put it to OEM range specs. Of course they'll probably say they can't get the camber into range, but you already know that. And honestly, most OEM camber range is from + to - 2º anyhow.

edit

Here's a great little site that will help explain toe, caster and camber

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racet....html

antbo
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ok, thanks falk

antbo
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Falkdesigns wrote:No, just tell them to put it to OEM range specs. Of course they'll probably say they can't get the camber into range, but you already know that. And honestly, most OEM camber range is from + to - 2º anyhow.

edit

Here's a great little site that will help explain toe, caster and camber

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racet....html
thats funny, i was actually looking at that earlier today

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elwesso
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Caster is also not adjustable without adjustable tension rods.....

Just get your usual alignment and tell them to get the toe PERFECT, and everything else will sort of take care of itself (since its not adjustable anyway)

Qproject
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what movement does CASTER refer to?
elwesso wrote:Caster is also not adjustable without adjustable tension rods.....

Just get your usual alignment and tell them to get the toe PERFECT, and everything else will sort of take care of itself (since its not adjustable anyway)

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elwesso
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if your loooking at the side of the car it refers to how far left or right the wheel is positioned in the wheel well....

Q45tech
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1 degree of excess [above 0.75] negative camber can materially affect the braking distances..................it is not just tire wear alone one has to worry about. More critical on front than rear.

The trapezoidal shape of patch overheats the inner portion thus the increase inner wear.

maxnix
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Q45tech wrote:When I see a lower vehicle I almost always know the owner could care less about functionality.
IQ correlates 100% with deviation from OEM ride height!

Seems to work for the bubbas with the jacked trucks on the street and for the speed bump plowing crowd.

"Member's standards vary." - Q45tech

maxnix
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Qproject wrote:what exactly is "TOE" ? I understand that "camber" is the angle at which the wheels-tires fall in or out.

but what exacty does "toe" involve? is it how "left" or how "right" the wheels-tire end up turning ?
A whole lot of information on the www.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/...hid=4

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antbo wrote: i saw the toe all contarted looking. ???
Contarted (adj.)

What one is when arriving at a club with Paris and Britney (or any acceptable substitutes) as your escorting tarts.
Modified by maxnix at 9:40 AM 12/13/2006

Q45tech
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Remember my Q has been lower for 7 years, I finally found someone to buy [trade] my Eibachs and pay [supply labor] to replace them with oem and throw in 2 new rear shocks and a newish AC compressor [installed] in the process.............yes my 2nd [225k] bit the dust last summer at 305k.......80k on a remanned Calsonics not as good as a new one but 5 years is good enough.

Who is smarter in this case.

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Falkdesigns
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What does this have to do with an alignment???

Q45tech
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Finally going back to oem springs and ride levels because even with a newish rear subframe [85k] the rear toe and camber adjustments are maxed out.................the on subframe mounting tabs eventually bend and not economical to change the subframe again............at least the 3/4" rise will fix the camber by 0.62 degree and the toe just enough.

The compressor had to do with reminding folks that even replacements need replacing again and again and again.


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