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Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT
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Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:50 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT Black w/ Premium & Areo Pkg
1989 Jeep Cherokee 4X4 Lifted and Old School!

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I bought the Upgraded 350z HR Pipe.

I also just got a Pop Charger and Z tube combo.

Next will be the spacer and Test Pipes. I should just buy the test pipes now but I tink Im going to wait.

How hard is it to install the Test pipes?

DJ


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G_whizz
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Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2006 5:34 am
Car: 2010 G37 Coupe Sport
Location: Canada eh

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Congrats!

Took ya long enough...

No idea on the test pipes...if you do a search...this is a thread on it!

uncbeers
Posts: 285
Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2007 8:00 pm

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Nice...I finally bought a new in-cabin air filter

I want to know how all that goes with the X so you better post results!

Jacko3
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Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2008 6:55 am

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Tampa:

Finally! :

When you get it installed, try flogging it a little, which will feel strange at first, at least for the next three weeks, until your ECU retunes itself and adjusts appropriately. If you don't flog it, the ECU won't make the proper adjustments of A/F ratios, and i guarantee that you will see a small increase in MPG at the low end, before you install test pipes, , especially if you are still using Shell V- Power. I think you should get the spacer immediately and install in order to get the full benefit. Well done!


Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT
Posts: 3238
Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:50 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT Black w/ Premium & Areo Pkg
1989 Jeep Cherokee 4X4 Lifted and Old School!

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Jacko...

Do you have the spacer with out the Mrev2? How does that work?

DJ

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SVTCOBRA
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Car: 2018 Q60 AWD 2023 F150 4x4 5.0 FX4
Location: LKN NC

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Nice!!!

Stimulating the economy!!!

Jacko3
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Tampa:

I have both---spacer and mrevv. 03 and 04 models---non-rev up engines don't need the mrevv, from what i understand.


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RED_DET
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Car: 2004 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6 spd
2011 Infiniti G37x
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how much you end up paying for the pipe?

TeflonG35
Posts: 2055
Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2008 11:58 am
Car: 2003 G35 Sedan

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Test pipes aren't hard. Just you gotta deal with grime and corrosion. The bolts can be gay from years of being exposed to road crap. Also the O2 senser can be a whore to get out. My one O2 senser was damn near welded on. It tore the thread trying to get it out. I had to file the slag on the thread to get a little grip. But it seems to be holding. I highly suggest wearing safety goggles. You don't want that crud falling in your eyes.

Other then that you need a good jack, some jack stands, and a nice ammount of socket extensions. Some of the bolts are hard to reach.

Also my car is older. And has been exposed to snow and salt. Yours should be easier to work with.

Jacko3
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I think I payed about $229 for 3" Strup test pipes. Most test pipes out there are 2.5" . I don't know if there is a difference in performance between 2.5" and 3" test pipes. If i do choose to add headers next year, its going to be Strupp headers. They claim with confidence that their headers and test pipes installed together will yield a good 16 hp and 8 lb ft of torque. Thats all they seem to sell---headers and testpipes. I am already impressed with their test pipes at high RPMS, and so, I have no doubt their headers will be good as well.


Jacko3
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Exactly! While my mechanic was installing my test pipes, i observed exactly the same things you said while he was working on the car.

Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT
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Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:50 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT Black w/ Premium & Areo Pkg
1989 Jeep Cherokee 4X4 Lifted and Old School!

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RED_DET wrote:how much you end up paying for the pipe?
91 dollars with shipping...

DJ

Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT
Posts: 3238
Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:50 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT Black w/ Premium & Areo Pkg
1989 Jeep Cherokee 4X4 Lifted and Old School!

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I'm going to stay away from the test pipes for now because of the PITA they are.

I can't wait for the parts to come in.

I spent almost 300 for everything I bought!

DJ

TeflonG35
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Car: 2003 G35 Sedan

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I got my test pipes for $75 shipped with CEL fixes already installed. No CEL light yet. *knock on wood*

I have megan racing headers sitting in my bedroom closet. I probably wont touch them till spring. It's way too cold to be working on a car out side. I will probably change the Gaskets thought. The stock ones I'm using suck. Under a heavy foot you can hear the exhaust gas escaping. Kinda annoying,

Jacko3
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Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2008 6:55 am

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Most 03 and 04 G-35s will almost not throw a CEL light with test pipes---I have a friend whose 03 G-35 Coupe has never thrown a CEL light with test pipes .


TeflonG35
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Car: 2003 G35 Sedan

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I would still recommend the CEL fixes to anyone using test pipes. We can't verify that a first gen will never throw a CEL. Alot of headaches come with throwing a CEL. Plus you run a greater risk of killing your O2 senser. Which can get costly. So I wouldn't go around telling people don't worry about CELs on early model cars. Just get the CEL fix. They are a cheap safety net. Why wouldn't you use it?

Jacko3
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I agree with you! I was just saying that they are less of a headache in 03 and 04 models than the 05+ models. When I buy high flow cats, eventually, i will be replacing my O2 sensors immediately. They cost about $170 a piece at the delaership.


TeflonG35
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Car: 2003 G35 Sedan

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They do offer universals. Also I would check with online dealers. I think $70- $110 is a beter estimate. They arent hard to change if you are already taking off the cat(or cat replacement). The cord the O2 sense is hooked to is just clipped in. You can take the whole wire out. Makes life easier if you don't have a lift and you are taking the cat off anyway.

Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT
Posts: 3238
Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:50 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT Black w/ Premium & Areo Pkg
1989 Jeep Cherokee 4X4 Lifted and Old School!

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I wish it was colder here lol...

Im at like 78-85 degrees still!

I know I can get the test pipes for about 100 bux shipped but I'm going to wait till i do a spacer.

Cuz once I do that and then the SBD's wires... well then I'm done with mods. LOL

DJ

Jacko3
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Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2008 6:55 am

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I would stay away from universals, especially when it involves a material that sends discrete electrical signals used in complex computer calculations and modulations. This isn't to say that it won't work, its just not a good idea with a device that transmits very important data that affects the performance, and thus, the reliability of an engine.

While not electrical, once upon a time, I tried using a universal CV booth for the CV axle of a car i used to have in the past, only to discover to my dismay that the booth only lasted about 3 weeks, with all the grease staingin everywhere under my car. I had to buy a brand new front CV axle, anyway, as i did not have anyone who could rebuild and repack my axle for me, which I later found was very easy to do with the right tools ( Mallet and a big Screw Driver, and lots of repacking grease), which i did not have at the time.

So, ever since, I just stay away from anything universal, especially in electrical components.


Modified by Jacko3 at 2:06 PM 10/24/2008

Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT
Posts: 3238
Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:50 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT Black w/ Premium & Areo Pkg
1989 Jeep Cherokee 4X4 Lifted and Old School!

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Universals just make everything more fun!

What were you thinking?

DJ


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