ok i built up a 92 ka24de-t but now i have a problem!!!

[knobep]

i took the ka out of a rusty s13 i had (it was working fine when i removed it except for a spun crank bearing). i tore it down in my basement and cleaned everything i was reusing, and for up-grades i ordered Aries 8.8-1 pistons (stock spec), Clevite bearings (stock spec), new timing chains, guides, tensioners, and sprockets, all new gaskets and seals, twin 248 exhaust cams (intake at 3 teeth off), and ARP 10mm head studs. i am using a cr-26 turbo from an mr2.
i installed the ka in a 95 240sx and it worked fine, started on the first crank actually but with no turbo connected. then when i was installing the oil lines for the turbo i had the filter off to get at it more easily and with out thinking started the damn thing without putting the filter back on but i noticed within a few seconds and shut it off. once i had topped it off and put the filter back on i decided it was complete enough for a (slow) lap around the block. well i made it half way and it stalled and wouldn't start or turn more than a half rev. so i got my other car and tried to jump it but it made no very little difference. it seems like the starter is working way to hart trying to turn it. i am truly stumped!

[the converted]

Judging by the stock application bearings, I'm going to make a wild guess that you didn't have any machine work to the damaged bearing area done? Sounds like you threw a rod, or some other catastrophic engine failure.

[knobep]

Judging by the stock application bearings, I'm going to make a wild guess that you didn't have any machine work to the damaged bearing area done? Sounds like you threw a rod, or some other catastrophic engine failure.

did a compression test with the battery at full charge and a car jumping it (dose turn gust not easy) and it was ok so i can rule out the rod. i didnt machine it but i checked it with a micrometer before i put it back together and it was at the limit of in spec but i have a hunch the problem might be bearing related. my other theory is that i may have over torqued the cams and or rod bolts.

[knobep]

update: checked the cams last light and they seem to be turning fine, chain tension seems fine too, but i couldn't turn the crank manually. is there a tried and true way of getting at the bearings without removing the motor? or should i just suck it up and tare it down again.

[spank044]

Did you lube the bearings during reassembly? And if it did spin a bearing then the crank needs to be chromed and polished.

[the converted]

Taking a step back and thinking about this, but since your KAT, did you relocate the battery to the trunk? If you did, double check all of your wiring especially the grounds.

[moso]

ok this sux dude but if you ran you motor with no oil filter and brand new bearing chances are thay are wasted, having no time to brake in and hone the surfaces together, when you started it likely the bearings were bone dry. dont screw arround, bite the bullet and yank the motor. i would get the crank and block prepared by a professional machine shop and order new bearings. its a setback but if your bearings have a problem now it will surely be the end of your motor, on the other hand its a small price to pay for a long lasting, hard reving, reliable engine.

[knobep]

Did you lube the bearings during reassembly? And if it did spin a bearing then the crank needs to be chromed and polished.

Yes i used petroleum jelly on everything wile assembling it. whats a chrome/polish job usually cost? or would it be ideal to see if i can find a new or used crank? I got two sets of bearings ahead of time as i know they would be the thing that confounds this build if anything. and i got them cheaper that way as it was a big order.

[moso]

no one is gonna be able to effectively price your machine shop without knowing the extent of the damage caused. cleaning a block is about 40, polishing a crank can go from 50 to 100, to bore and hone a cyl is about 50ea, to line bore a block can cost up to 400 bones. so really it depends on the shop and what your having done. in the end you will have to tear yours down to find out.

[knobep]

no one is gonna be able to effectively price your machine shop without knowing the extent of the damage caused. cleaning a block is about 40, polishing a crank can go from 50 to 100, to bore and hone a cyl is about 50ea, to line bore a block can cost up to 400 bones. so really it depends on the shop and what your having done. in the end you will have to tear yours down to find out.

ball park prices were all i was looking for, so this is good info. im fairly confident that when i open it the extent of the carnage will be limited to the main center bearing, as it is the one that spun last time, and id think it would take way more force than the starter could make to turn that thing if more than one went. 500 for a reliable build i can live with.

[spank044]

If it was the center bearing that spun you might want a new crank since that bearing controls the end play of the crank. If either surface on the crank was damaged the end play will be out of spec and will need to be welded then machined. If you used petroleum jelly then the bearings should have been ok for a short run time. But since you didn't get the machine work done after the first spun bearing you need to do it all again and it will cost you more than $500 to do it right.

[knobep]

Taking a step back and thinking about this, but since your KAT, did you relocate the battery to the trunk? If you did, double check all of your wiring especially the grounds.

ya i did relocate the battery. but since i cant turn the crank with a wrench, and ive checked my wiring, and it has a bran new starter i have a hunch thats not it. would be nice though.

[knobep]

If it was the center bearing that spun you might want a new crank since that bearing controls the end play of the crank. If either surface on the crank was damaged the end play will be out of spec and will need to be welded then machined. If you used petroleum jelly then the bearings should have been ok for a short run time. But since you didn't get the machine work done after the first spun bearing you need to do it all again and it will cost you more than $500 to do it right.

like i was asking would a new or (less used) crank be as good as having mine repaired? not real worried about price as i know the owner of the biggest cnc machine shop in my Province. and he has done stuff like this for free for me before.

[moso]

usually when i have a motor spin a bearing i throw away the short block and get a new (used JY) one. its just easier, cause your gonna pay to have the cyls honed at least if not bored, as well as have the crank polished, new bearings, a head job, most likely piston heads and rings on either motor... after all that and more, who wants to pay 300+ to have a crank milled or a block line bored. especially when you can get one from a pick yard for 150 bucks thats in better shape. just my .02

[spank044]

OP, your Canadian and spell? J/K , anyway you need to get measurements and your machinist opinion on the crank since we can't see it. If he can do all the work on the cheap and order an over sized bearing set for you then that would be the best. Second option find a used crank and drop that in with the proper bearings.

Wow moso why don't you just buy a crate motor, it sounds like you've trashed a lot of good motors. You don't need to polish the crank, get a head job, and pistons unless they are damaged. Stock nissan parts have good quality metals and castings that make them last and can be rebuilt.

[knobep]

ya Canadian and dyslexic, and can spell. thats right i said it. the head is in perfect shape, i got new valve seals, sprockets and went twin 248 cams but everything ells seems dandy. a new short block and crank would be the fastest fix as i know were one is that i yanked the cam from. not sure on what would be cheaper though.
ps. the OP has all the internal mods already done to the motor.

[moso]

all im saying is it costs 300 here to have a crank milled and the block line bored and 150 for a short block. provided the short block is in better condition you can save a buck ( to spend on those aries 8.8-1 pistons )

[spank044]

moso, that seems high for that work. Where are you? I can get a crank cut and align hone for about $180.

OP, if you can get a different short block in good condition for cheap then do it. I personally recommend 248/232ex for a cam swap though. For me it revved up quicker and my turbo spooled almost 500 rpm quicker.

[1KleenS13]

I never heard of using petroleum jelly for assembly lube, maybe on a automatic trans valvebody. Did you have oil psi? Cut the oil filter apart and see how much metal is in it. Your going to have to take the engine out. My guess is the bearing clearances were to tight and you cooked the bottom end due to lack of lubrication. Use Lucas oil stabilizer for your assembly lube next time. You might be able to get away with polishing the crank, but it may need to be cut.

[moso]

im stuck here in new orleans, and your right its a bit high, this city suxx but cheap isnt good either. and as far as the vasoline for assembly lube, its an old mechanics trick and it works.

[knobep]

moso, that seems high for that work. Where are you? I can get a crank cut and align hone for about $180.

OP, if you can get a different short block in good condition for cheap then do it. I personally recommend 248/232ex for a cam swap though. For me it revved up quicker and my turbo spooled almost 500 rpm quicker.

well i have a 232 that i took out of the intake side, but it seems to me (with the relative size of the valves) that you would want to go bigger with the exhaust cam if any thing. but thats just my figuring.

[knobep]

all im saying is it costs 300 here to have a crank milled and the block line bored and 150 for a short block. provided the short block is in better condition you can save a buck ( to spend on those aries 8.8-1 pistons )

btw i already have the aries pistons installed in it. cant see them being damaged by a bearing spin, especially one that happened at idle. i am in nova scotia canada. halifax to be exact.

after thought: yes i did have oil pressure reading on the gauge, way too much infact (hit 80 psi at 2000 rpm) i was guessing i wired the thing wrong. what do i do if i take it apart and there are no spun bearings?? could the oil pump f*** up this badly?

[OutToWinPAHC]

Spun bearing usually means damaged crank journal which is filled, milled down, then polished. They can bring it to factory spec, or sometimes you need a different spec bearing.

Assembly lube, always.

and you should have had the bottom end balanced as well.

[moso]

im sure that the pistons are fine i was just commenting on the fact that all this costs money and its nice to save a buck or two. and yes the oil pump is connected directly to the crank and if it were buggered up it could cause the crank to lock up, but i would think if it ceased while the motor was running it would have removed itself from the front cover. most ppl say the oil pump on a ka is indestructible, i replaced mine when i rebuilt just cause its habit but my stock original one was fine at 225k/mi. in the end you built a motor that MAY have had a bad bearing race or seat. you then ran that motor with no oil filter, no filter = no oil. at best, even if it had an oil filter on it, you were walking on thin ice over untested waters, without the filter you were just hosed. when it comes to building a motor you should always start with the best possible conditions, a motor that had a spun bearing and never saw a machine shop is definitely not the best possible conditions. i really hope you get this motor sorted out and back on the road.

[knobep]

ya i figured the oil pump wasn't likely to be the issue. as for fixing it, it will definitely be on the road eventually. already have over 5000 invested in this project not including the cost of my old 240 that i cannibalized for the engine, trans and ecu. im not about to pitch it in the trash just yet hahaha.

[knobep]

Finally got it out, but i havent cracked it open yet.

[knobep]

just an up-date. the main center bearing was in fact the culprit. it was purity much welded to the crank...

[the converted]

Man, that SUCKS! Guess it's a good think KA's are cheap. Better luck on the next one.