ok fixed alternator prob, cleaned MAF, now on to the next prob.

[Marshall206]

So I replaced my alternator with one from shucks with a lifetime warranty.

It fixed the window that wouldnt roll up, and also the battery light is off now along with the parking brake light that would stay on.

Tested and the alternator was the problem, so now I would like a little info if theres any on the next problem.

About wach time I drive the car now it will run fine for a bit, then the TCS Slip will come on and stay on and the car at the same time will start running very rough, and sounds terrible under acceleration.

Im thinking this could be related to a bad spark plug coil wire, but I just want to make sure thats the best route to take.

any info as always very much appreciated

[maxnix]

Check MAF connector. MAF element almost never needs cleaning before 150K - 200K miles unless air filter change intervals are abused.

Keep the Shuck's receipt because you will need it again.

[Marshall206]

well, the air filter when I had the car serviced by someone the one time i did, they put an air filter in that was not the right size and just kinda shoved it in there, it was the right length but too skinny, quite a bit of crap got passed it, there was some debris on the screen that is on the MAF box

[goody90q45]

Find the reciept from the filter change, take a picture of the install, and show up at the shop to get the correct one put in. Then call the Bureau of Automotive Repair and file a complaint. A shop doing that kind of shoddy work needs a wake-up call.

[Marshall206]

ya, but i know the owner of the shop, who along with a couple others are really good mechanics, but the guy who did my service was a younger guy who no longer works there, found out when he did my spark plugs too that he didnt even tighten down the hard to reach ones, lol good thing i needed the oem ones back in anyways, but dont really want to attack the shop.

but anyone think that the air filter being too small cause my MAFS to bug out?

im starting to lean away from coil wires are more towards replacing MAF first

any thoughts?

[Marshall206]

ok I posted a little bit back but didnt get anything.

I fixed the alternator prob I posted about a little while back, my TCS and slip lights occasionally come on with some really rough idling and terrible acceleration.

I discovered a little while back that when I had the car service by someone the one time I did, they put a wrong size air filter in my car, too small and a little too long lol, but I noticed when I went to check my MAF and connections, which I what I should look into from what I read on this forum and I found quite a bit of debris in the screen just before the MAFS

another member of this forum thought my MAF shouldnt need cleaning or replacing until 150-200k miles, but is it possible the filament in mine was damaged from debris?

I also have a possible bad coil wire, which I have plans of replacing all 8 to take care of the prob, but is a new MAF a good way to go? the rough idling and the traction control lights staying on are my biggest problem right now, would love to get it taken care of. I also have been told on here it could be my k/s and harness that needs replacing, so just want to go the right direction

I replaced my alternator, fixed the window that wouldnt roll up, did my rear heated o2 sensor, and a few other things but I really want to dial the car in the rest of the way

any info is very much appreciated and what I have gotten from this site has been invaluable.

thanks again

[Q451990]

I just merged your threads together to keep all of in one place - 17 hours was probably not long enough to wait for more responses.

We really need to know what codes you're seeing at the ECU. My guess is that you have multiple issues... coil pack problems seem to be very common on the Y33 series of the Q, but the code is always a misfire of some sort.

Heath

[Marshall206]

k ill check codes again, last time all I got was p1320 ignition signal primary

but I havent tested since a few things were fixed.

is my obd2 code reader sufficient? or do I need to go to a shop and have them use consult software or a better reader

thanks for merging, ill check codes and post up what I get

[goody90q45]

....is my obd2 code reader sufficient? or do I need to go to a shop and have them use consult software or a better reader......

Your code reader is good enough. Save your money paying for a consult and refer to the emissions section of the FSM.

ya, but i know the owner of the shop, who along with a couple others are really good mechanics, but the guy who did my service was a younger guy who no longer works there, found out when he did my spark plugs too that he didnt even tighten down the hard to reach ones, lol....

Give the owner a mild tongue lashing for all of us here at NICO. He needs to get his staff to work to a higher set of workmanship standards or he'll eventually have unhappy customers complaining to the Bureau of Automotive Repair and a failing business.

.....We really need to know what codes you're seeing at the ECU. My guess is that you have multiple issues... coil pack problems seem to be very common on the Y33 series of the Q, but the code is always a misfire of some sort. Heath

Where's Andy?

[chepolino22]

i have a similar problem with my 97Q, 153k.

i have 1320 code. I replaced all coils (not oem but made in Japan by Hitachi, partsgeek has them), reset check engine light, vehicle stopped misfiring but the 1320 code is still there.

???

i was told it is probably a hareness which is like almost $800 just for the part!