Oiling air filter

Post by **Onslaught31** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:55 pm

It's about that time to oil up the filter on the JWT pop charger. My question is how do you know how much oil to use? The website makes it sound like 1 gram over or under will utterly destroy the engine. I don't have the time or desire to measure out the exact grams, is there a rule of thumb or an easier standard to know how to oil it?

Also, it washes with water right?

(if there's a how-to or topic already posted, just link me up)

Post by **SVTCOBRA** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 12:59 am

I've heard folks using the K&N cleaning kit on them.Which involves spraying a cleaning solution on it before flushing with water.

Hopefully, someone will chime in.

Post by **Q45tech** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 2:27 am

Important to let things dry a few days before use [keep a spare to swap] and test for lose oil drops with paper towel.

If oil vapors contaminate MAF sensor elements, ecu will read leaner than normal and misapply the correct AF ratios to injectors.

The oil vapor acts as a heat insulator on sensors slowing down the sudden changes in readings [output voltage changes]..............sluggish and in accurate MAF.

Mostly an idle and low rpm problem.

Post by **G_whizz** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 4:26 am

You can order the cleaning kit or if it is accessable, I don't forsee a problem with using K&N cleaner.

Go here

http://www.courtesyparts.com/i...g.pdf

Never over oil... that's why the oil is coloured...so you can see if you already oiled that spot!

Post by **abdoman** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 4:28 am

I haven't done this yet, but before reinstalling the oil filter I was going to put the filter on my shop vac. If I over oiled the filter, hopefully I will pull off any extra oil.

Post by **joe603** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 4:30 am

Its really not that hard, just don't over-oil the pleats. It should not be runny, or puddle.

Post by **ArizonaG35** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:54 am

I just read through this thread and checked out a couple other conversations on this site about this topic...

QUESTION: How often should we clean our K & N Filters? I have a fujita short ram intake and I live in the desert so we get a LOT of dust around here... Is this something that should be done on a regular basis?

Post by **joe603** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 10:12 am

If it looks dirty, clean it...I'd do it every 15-20k.

Post by **szh** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 10:31 am

I am going to show my bias here, so bear with me, folks!

I just don't like the idea of having an oiled filter element in the air stream. No matter how well you think you have dried it, there is going to be micro-particles of oil coming off the filter and coating things inside.

Like the MAF, etc. This is going to lead to engine performance degradation.

My opinion (so take it with the appropriate grain of salt): stick with non-oiled air filters - OEM or appropriate quality replacement. They are cheap enough to throw away on a regular basis (12k to 15k miles) and easy to replace, etc.

The small "performance" gains you might see from these other filters simply isn't enough to justify the other potential problems ... and the gain is not high enough to matter. Now, if you were to supercharge or turbocharge, that is an different story altogether!

Z

Post by **ArizonaG35** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 11:08 am

Well sure, there is all that risk of deterioration and loss of performance...

So I'm going to take a pre-schooler's approach at this argument...

MINES SHINIER AND MAKES MORE NOISE THAN YOURS! NANANA BOO BOO!

Post by **SVTCOBRA** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 11:59 am

arizonaferrell wrote:MINES SHINIER AND MAKES MORE NOISE THAN YOURS! NANANA BOO BOO!

I clean mine about once a year. But, like he says, if it looks dirty, clean it.

Post by **joe603** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 4:15 am

szhosain wrote:I am going to show my bias here, so bear with me, folks!

I just don't like the idea of having an oiled filter element in the air stream. No matter how well you think you have dried it, there is going to be micro-particles of oil coming off the filter and coating things inside.

Like the MAF, etc. This is going to lead to engine performance degradation.

My opinion (so take it with the appropriate grain of salt): stick with non-oiled air filters - OEM or appropriate quality replacement. They are cheap enough to throw away on a regular basis (12k to 15k miles) and easy to replace, etc.

The small "performance" gains you might see from these other filters simply isn't enough to justify the other potential problems ... and the gain is not high enough to matter. Now, if you were to supercharge or turbocharge, that is an different story altogether!

Z

Oil-type filters are fine as long as you don't over-oil them. The intake has engine oil from the crank breather anyway...the only part that might get a negligible amount of oil is the MAF, which should be cleaned when you clean the filter anyway. If you do the correct maintenance, you'll be fine.

Post by **ArizonaG35** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 8:37 am

Bringing this one back... I cleaned my fujita filters a couple weeks back and oiled them per the K&N cleaning kit. I followed the directions to the "T" as they said to use a liberal amount of oil on the filter pleats. I sprayed the oil and let them sit overnight. There was some excess oil on the filters so I dabbed it "Dry" and re-installed. Ever since, I've noticed a little decrease in performance. My car seems to not run as smoothly as it did before.

When I checked the engine oil last week, I noticed that there was some filter oil dripped down on the frame from the over oiled filter. I got a paper towel and blotted the bottom of the filter and it was SOAKED with filter oil. That being said, I'm pretty sure I over-oiled. What should I do? Should I re-clean the filter with a new cleaning kit and just oil less this time? Should I make an attempt to clean the MAF? If so, what's the safest meathod for cleaning the MAF? Help!

Dave

Post by **gwoods** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 8:43 am

Hey brother I wish you would have called me!

straight from Fujita's web site

"FUJITA SUPER FLOW HIGH PERFORMANCE AIR FILTER™

Fujita’s Super Flow High Performance Air Filter™ was designed to maximize air flow. The high gloss Fujita air horn enables air to enter the intake chamber in a high velocity spiral motion. The base of the filter was technically engineered to ensure a smooth and rapid passage of the air into the intake chamber. Cleaning the air filter is simple and can be done using soapy, lukewarm water, and let air dry. The Super Flow High Performance Air Filter™ contains a synthetic fiber that does not contain any oil. "

If you oiled yours I would follow the cleaning instructions from Fujita.

Now if you still don't get your performance back let me know and I will come over and help you clean your MAP sensors.

Jeff

Post by **ArizonaG35** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 8:49 am

Okay... now I know what I'm doing tonight when I get home... I didn't automatically associate the performance decrease to the filter oil that's what took a couple weeks. It has gradually gotten worse over the last week... Just feels like sporatic mis-firing... i'll clean it tonight SANS OIL and let you know... Thanks man!Dave

Post by **gwoods** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 8:54 am

If it still is sluggish I would clean the sensors with electronic parts cleaner you can buy it from most autoparts stores. Do not clean the sensors with anything else.

I think your probably okay...

I'm speculating that the oil is blocking air flow and making your car run a little rich which would cause a loss in performance.

Post by **ArizonaG35** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 8:56 am

You think regular old Palmolive will do the trick on the filters? Really sudsy or not so much?

Post by **gwoods** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 9:01 am

yep dish soap should be the best at cutting that oil. I would do repeated baths with medium suds or soak them overnight. The overnight soak would probably be the best. Then in the morning just run medium pressure water from the tap across the filters until no more soap comes off. 10 min on your back porch should dry them in this 0 humidity 90 degree weather we are having.

Don't scrub the filters either just let the soap do the work.

BTW I have NEVER cleaned mine. I run the shop vac over them when I clean the car though.

If you do clean the sensors with electronic parts cleaner don't spray them full blast. I'd hold them at arms length and give them short medium squirts from the can. Let them dry. Then clean them again. And NO HUFFING LOL

Post by **gwoods** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 9:07 am

Not needing oil was one of the things that led me to purchase the Fujita intake system over a cheaper intake.

On my Hemi I ran dual filters into a single throttle body. About every 6,000 miles I had to clean the filter oil off the throttle body (and no I was not over oiling them). It sucked!

Post by **ArizonaG35** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 9:09 am

Thanks for the advice... I'll probably hold off on the MAF cleaner til I see how the clean filters work...

MMMMMMMMMM.... HUFFING!

Post by **gwoods** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 9:14 am

sounds like a good plan.....

Post by **Sentientbydesign** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 9:47 am

Jeff,

Thanks for making mention of the Fujita not being oiled. That gives me another reason to get in in lieu of a z-tube/stillen/JWT setup. I HATE oil on my filters. It makes a messy goo.

For those of you who haven't tried an AEM dry-flow, you have no idea what you're missing.

Post by **joe603** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 9:49 am

For those with JWT: I use the K&N filtercharger kit. comes with a cleaner and the oil to reapply. Autozone or a similar parts store will sell it. If you have access to a compressor, blowing it out will speed up the process.

Post by **gwoods** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 9:51 am

I would not use an air compressor to blow out the filter... it could make small tears in the material. A shop vac is okay though

Post by **telcoman** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 10:16 am

szhosain wrote:I am going to show my bias here, so bear with me, folks!

I just don't like the idea of having an oiled filter element in the air stream. No matter how well you think you have dried it, there is going to be micro-particles of oil coming off the filter and coating things inside.

Like the MAF, etc. This is going to lead to engine performance degradation.

My opinion (so take it with the appropriate grain of salt): stick with non-oiled air filters - OEM or appropriate quality replacement. They are cheap enough to throw away on a regular basis (12k to 15k miles) and easy to replace, etc.

The small "performance" gains you might see from these other filters simply isn't enough to justify the other potential problems ... and the gain is not high enough to matter. Now, if you were to supercharge or turbocharge, that is an different story altogether!

Z

I agree 100%

My Air Filter is dirty after 8k miles. The replacement is $10Why in the world would I need a air filter with oil that is going to $uck up my MAF?My G's performance is excellent .So much better than my old 1958 Ford

Telcoman

Post by **Sentientbydesign** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 10:24 am

telcoman wrote:

I agree 100%

My Air Filter is dirty after 8k miles. The replacement is $10Why in the world would I need a air filter with oil that is going to $uck up my MAF?My G's performance is excellent .So much better than my old 1958 Ford

Telcoman

Because some of us would rather not add an air filter to the landfills every 2-3 months. We also like knowing that we can make a one time investment of $60 and begin saving by the second year.

I also don't like oiled filters. Ergo my comment regarding the AEM filter.

Post by **ArizonaG35** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 10:29 am

I'm very surprised by this recent discovery that Fujita Filters do not require oil... I was totally under the impression that Fujita Filters were just K&N's with a Fujita label on them... This is good to know and it probably explains my recent decrease in performance. The clogged filter would explain the computer running rich...

Post by **rn79870** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 10:48 am

I'm just surprised that you did anything "liberal," as in "liberal application of oil." Had you stuck to your conservative self you would have been just fine! This outta teach you to try to be a liberal!

Post by **joe603** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 10:48 am

So while we're talking about this...what about the JWT filter? That's a K&N, oil-style filter right? Got me all nervous now

Post by **ArizonaG35** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 10:58 am

I don't know... I'd check your manufacturers website to make sure you don't need to oil...

Dave

Oiling air filter

Oiling air filter

Re: Oiling air filter (Onslaught31)

Re: Oiling air filter (SVTCOBRA)

Re: Oiling air filter (Onslaught31)

Re: Oiling air filter (Q45tech)

Re: Oiling air filter (Onslaught31)

Re: (szhosain)

Re: (arizonaferrell)

Re: (szhosain)

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Re: (ArizonaG35)

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Re: (ArizonaG35)

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