The cleaner nature of the synthetics removes this "build-up"
Ding ding ding..... JOO ARE TEH WINNAR!!!!!11
I am well aware that synthetics are less prone to breakdown over longer periods of time vs conventional oils. BUT what you fail to see is that the same combustion process and the same contaminants as a result from that get into the oil after every single combustion stroke. Mabey even moreso with synthetics and their better cleansing abilities.
Ok so where does it all go? Into the filter, right? Well when a filter gets contaminated it cant flow as well. Less flow is not good in my eyes. Generally the oil bypass valve opens up with not very much pressure difference (something like 12 - 15 psi IIRC). Get to much hindered flow and the valve opens more often and for longer periods of time, dumping unfiltered oil back into the engine. Do you know how much psi we run at 3000rpm through the oil line in a KA. A 20% loss in flow (wouldnt be hard as there is a loss in flow to begin with on a fresh filter) could result in the valve opening and allowing dirty oil to bypass.
I dont really like that idea in the least. Besides that my car performs worse as I approach the 3k mile mark. And I have teken my car to the track at the 3k mile mark then gone back (rel. humidity temp and conditions the same) the next week after an oil change and got consistantly better times then the previous weeks best.
Ive never once drained my oil at 3k and had it come out looking and smelling like a freshly cracked open quart of 10w30 mobil 1 synthetic (hehe I like my oil mmmmm). Its always a nice very dark golden shade, and smells of HC. Last time I also checked HC dont really lubricate so well, no?
All these contaminants and HC also decrease the viscosity simullating, if you will, a thicker grade oil. What happens when you say go from a 10w30 to a 25w50?? You get HP decreases across the power band, and deminished fuel ecconomy.
OK quick math say I loose 2 mpg after 3k miles. It takes me 115 gals to go 3000 miles (ref the 3k over my 3k you stated with say even 6k). If I lost 2 mpg (yes my mpg does decrease and I know because like I said my car is the only thing I 100% pay attention to
) It would take 125 gals to go 3000 extra miles, or 10 gallons more with diminished fual eccon.. At 1.65 a gallon it would cost me 16.5 dollars in extra fuel. As it only costs just at 20$ for 3.5 quarts of oil and a Nissan baby blue filter, every 3k miles.
I lose a whopping 3.50$ by changing my oil every 3k vs 6k. Mabey more as I only once ran it to 4k, I would bet my fuel ecconomy would drop further thus increasing the fuel consumption cost, thus making my changing of oil every 3k vs 6k save me money. Plus dont forget all the much much much more added carbon deposits that can float around and get stuck in passageways and clog them up (rem the bypass).
Wile the oil "may" be able to lubricate to 10k miles it doesnt matter to me as for reasons stated. I like having my car run in top performance every time I crack open the throttle body. My car sits at 3 grand most of time I go anywhere. Whether its in 3rd around town or 4th on the highway at 80 mph its at 3k. I drive my car like it was meant to be driven, hard. I do this 95% of the time I am in it. No grandma acceleration, constant use of engine breaking for quick slowdowns, followed by WOT to rip me around corners, constant 80mph trips, and a fair amount of auto-x and drag time thrown into the mix.
If all that only costs 20$ (by it in bulk and DIY saves money kids
) every few weeks to cpl months then Im all game.
Do what you want its your engine. What do you reccomend for auto trannies 75k miles??? :rolleyes
