Oil return line bungs: Weld in or screw in?

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mkory
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Which should I get and why? I REALLY don't wanna have to take off my oil pan, it's such a PITA. I've never seen these for sale, where to I get them?

Discuss.


TheOne
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its not having to weld it(tho you really do have to take it out when welding) or screw it that makes you take out the oil pan....its metal shavings from making the hole, you'd have to have a magnet around it to get all of those, and even then its not safe, you don't want metal shavings goin around the engine and the turbo.

scheffler
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yea i didn't want to take off mine but you can't ave metal shavings in your pani just un did the motor mounts and jacked up the motor and was able to slide the pan out its not that hard

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Checkered-Member
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I take it the oil pan on a 240 is hard to take off?

It's a breeze on my alti

TheOne
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its harder cause you have to drop the x member to take it off, even then its still hard:).(i don't think you have to drop much in yours since its FWD)

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mkory
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No, you can loosen the motor mounts and raise it up by the transmission.

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DammitBobby
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If you decide to weld a bung on the oil pan this is the new -10AN Steel weld fitting that you need to use. It will make it easier to install and clear the AC and motor mount. Also you need to order an 45 degree -10AN swivel fitting both are picture below and can be bought at anplumbing.com.This is the exact parts I ordered Monday. I will take pictures when I finish. My orginal return line was a -6AN which is way to small and it leaked. I finally figure out that the 1/2 bung threads were messed up causing the leak. The problem with using a 1/2 bung is that you have to buy another adapter to go from 1/2 to -10AN. Welding a -10AN to the pan eliminates the need for the adapter and another place it could leak.




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get_up_mark
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the one from iap requires no welding, instead using a silicon sealent.

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WDRacing
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Or a 5/8's screw in bung from Lowes, Home Depot will work. The use JB weld around it to insure the seal. Thats what I did. Works like a champ. I never pulled off the pan either. I did mine the ghetto way. Flushed it with 2 gallons of alcohol and 3 quarts of oil. No problems as of yet.

WD

DRIFTEADOR
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WDRacing wrote:I did mine the ghetto way
well said

i tried the jb weld and it leaked on me. not much, maybe a couple of drops a day, but it was very annoying.

ultimatuc
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TheOne™ wrote:its metal shavings from making the hole, you'd have to have a magnet around it to get all of those.
aluminum is not magnetic.

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onosqv
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rseabrooke wrote:
For some reason I can't find that bung on the site. What is it listed as and under? An adapter?

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onosqv
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get_up_mark wrote:the one from iap requires no welding, instead using a silicon sealent.
Do you know what sealent they use?

Florida240sx
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WD...so you pured the alcohol form the top at the valve cover then poured 3 qts behind it?

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virus77
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ultimatuc wrote:aluminum is not magnetic.
its a good thing our oil pans aren't aluminum.

Oh, and I used a screw type with a nice plastic type crush washer on the inside and some JB weld on top of that. Never had a problem with an oil leak. Also you dont need to take your pan to get welded if you dont have a welder.

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Import_Ant
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brokeAs240sx wrote:
Do you know what sealent they use?
it's a generic silicone-based sealant. The brand they use is made by permatex although most silicone-based oil resistant sealants should work. Link <-that's pretty much what it is.

Keep in mind the oil bung they include in their kit isn't ATTACHED to the oil pan via the gasket maker, that stuff only seals it. they include two self-anchoring 'nuts' that you have to drill holes for that anchor it. I got the IAP kit and elected to drop my oil pan instead of using their anchors. It can be done like their instructions suggest but personally I didn't find it too difficult to remove the oil pan and decided to go that route instead.

I DID NOT REMOVE MY CROSSMEMBER TO GET MY OIL PAN OUT. I DID HAVE TO BE CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING AND PUTTING IT BACK IN NOT TO BEND THE MESH FILTER ON THE END OF THE PICKUP. (sorry for caps but I wanted to dispell the myth about having to remove the crossmemeber and it's very important not to block the oil pickup)

To remove my oil pan I attached a chain to the AC compressor bracket that bolts to the block, unbolted my driver's side motor mount, and with an engine lift, lifted the the motor. I did have to remove my front anti-sway bar as well. I think it took me about 20 minutes. Trust me you'll be thankfull of the ability to clean it while it's out anyhow. check my cardomain site for pics. I wanted a cleaner hole than I could have drilled from under the car anyhow. my dad has a drill press and i wanted to drill the oil bung using that for a cleaner connection. don't forget to use teflon tape around all of the fittings too!!

ultimatuc
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virus77 wrote:
its a good thing our oil pans aren't aluminum.

.
the correct place for the return fitting would be in the upper. (aluminum)

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WDRacing
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The upper what? The entire oil pan on the 240sx KA24DE is steal.

No, I didn't pour alcohol into the valve cover, that is a VERY BAD IDEA. I simply put a funnel into the oil return hose and hooked up the hose to the bung I just installed. Keep the drain plug in, pour in about a quart, remove plug, then pour in the rest, it'll get all the slugde and shaving out. I also followed that up with 3 quarts of oil, then drained again.

If using the no pan removal option, coat the drill bit's in petrolatum or vaseline, this will catch most of the filings so they don't drop inside the pan. Drill in slowly and most of the filings will get stuck in the pet.

WD

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DammitBobby
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Under steel adapter at the bottom of the page

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop...Steel

side waz
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mkory wrote:Which should I get and why? I REALLY don't wanna have to take off my oil pan, it's such a PITA. I've never seen these for sale, where to I get them?

Discuss.
Well I went with a welded piece of pipe on my oil pan. I then clamped the stainless steel oil line on and it's perfect.

As for taking the oil pan off, yeah I know it's not the easiest thing to do but it's a safe thing to do. Gives the pan a nice fresh seal with the liquid gasket to the motor for when you boost. At least you'll know it won't leak any time soon that way.

Florida240sx
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I figured you went through the hole.I didn't see it too logical going through the valve cover. 2days left

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mkory
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rseabrooke wrote:Under steel adapter at the bottom of the page

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop...Steel
Is this the weld in or screw in kind? Are the screw in kind self taping? I really don't know what to look for in looking for a bung.

ultimatuc
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WDRacing wrote:The upper what? The entire oil pan on the 240sx KA24DE is steal.
my bad. altimas have a upper and lower oil pans. (upper is aluminum) I assumed 240's were the same.


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DammitBobby
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No this bung has to be welded. The pan is metal and that -10AN bung is metal any good muffler shop can handle welding a bung on a oil pan. Plus using an -10AN bung eliminates any need for a conversion adapter that will cause leaks and make the adapter stick out further then needed. I will take pictures and give part numbers when I finish this oil return project. I ordered the parts from California so it might not get here this week.

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WDRacing
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Thats exactly what I figured you were talking about...I love steel, way easier for me to weld.

Eventually I'm getting rid of the brass bung with JB Weld and expanding the whole pan to hold 2 more quarts of oil and setting up a way better oil return.

WD

Florida240sx
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expanding 2qts?Going to get creative?

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trackslut240
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WDRacing wrote:Thats exactly what I figured you were talking about...I love steel, way easier for me to weld.

Eventually I'm getting rid of the brass bung with JB Weld and expanding the whole pan to hold 2 more quarts of oil and setting up a way better oil return.

WD
WDRacing wrote:Thats exactly what I figured you were talking about...I love steel, way easier for me to weld.

Eventually I'm getting rid of the brass bung with JB Weld and expanding the whole pan to hold 2 more quarts of oil and setting up a way better oil return.

WD
GO WDRacing GO, i have been reading info here and i just cant wait to see and read more ideas, i think expansion with 2 qts is a great idea, would u be kind enuff to shed some light on placement of the bung, also any others please share best placement for the return bung...thanks

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WDRacing
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I'll do ya one better, I'll post pics here real soon, I'm picking up a spare pan to operate on this weekend.


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